cicone said:I'm not trying to make it a motocross bike.
skipro3 said:Trying?!? TRYING????? It was a very funny poke at the "rear fender" thread thank you very much.
canyncarvr said:What about that mylar cap? I don't see that referenced in your parts list..well except for the capacitor reference involving ohms and watts....which is obviously not a capacitor. Did you come up with one'a those?
I think the metal poly and mylar are synonymous. Yeah, plan to pot it---have to find some non conductive silicone. This whole thing has been an adventure.canyncarvr said:The big yellow one.
My terminology is probably wrong. The yellow one is the polyized metal one? ;) ...seems they are usually hi-freq jobs.
Are you going to pot this goody after you know it works?
say what? no, seriously---going to rehab the old board w/ the original wires. then make another board or two from scratch with slightly different parameters. THEN i'll have to figure out where to get those little thingies, but I think it wouldn't be a problem getting them at our local bike salvage place---should be plenty of them there!canyncarvr said:What do you plan to use for the bullet connectors?
I have never found the nice, long, pliable weather resistant type of covers as used on the kdx (and lots of other places).
Maybe you got those from Mouser, too?
skipro3 said:The local U-Haul sells those bullet connectors here for trailer hook-ups. Maybe those will work.
Thanks for the offer---thinking i'll just pot it with blue rtv(if it's non conductive) and little stones that you would put in an aquarium. Talked with a guy who's company sells the potting stuff and that's what he recommended. I think the comp. was epoxies.com---based in Rhode Island. He said the reason for the "stones" in the silicone was partly to deter reverse engineering, but primarily for heat dissipation---said mixing sand with the potting would do the same thing. Ain't this fun!!skipro3 said:Don't use flux made for things like radiator soldering, or copper pipe sweating. That stuff is too corrosive. Silver solder is a bit more expensive but you do end up with a more rugged connection. It's available at radio shack. It contains no lead, or at least that is why I'm told I have to use it at work over regular 60/40 lead solder. You may want to use a flux remover after the solder job is complete and before potting it. I have some potting kits that I use when sealing up cable splice jobs that are exposed to outdoors. They are available at most electronic supply stores but I'm not sure radio shack has them. I'd be willing to dig around and find a left over one from my stash if you can't find one and send your way if you need it.
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