FOG's bike arrived today!!!!

Hi Munich,I just got another bike after 20 years(2000 KDX 220R) and I am right where you are as far as jetting and just getting to know the bike.I wonder if we could just put the rear on a jack lift and do a WOT for 30 seconds without having to soil our shorts. :D I gotta question. Do you have to remove the bearings in all the linkages or can you get grease in them without having to have any "Service Manual Special Tools"

Sounds good Munich.I will greatly appreciate any tips you can give on the grease job.Thanks in advance.

This has been posted for sure...hasn't it? Well, here it is (again, maybe).

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net

CDave's site is a place you MUST read through. Jetting advice for all the mods you mention. Starting places, for sure! Your particular bike MUST be jetted to suit YOUR particular bike...and you, too!

The boyesen reeds come with their own 'stops'. You do NOT use the oem stops. BTW, the oem stops are heavy large metal 'tongues' that are only about 45º from the reed. The boyesen stops are little metal strips that amount to acting like not much more than a washer under the screws. This said cuz someone may have removed the oem stops from the oem reeds thinking they were hotrodding something.

re: removing the bearings.

If you remove 'em, replace 'em. No reason TO remove them, though. You can clean them and regrease them with them still in the part. If you don't have a lower mount shock bearing on hand, be prepared to let your bike sit while you wait for the one you order. I'll bet'cha it's toast!

No 'special tools' needed.

Pay close attention to the re-assy of the rear linkage assy. The bolt shoulders are a bit short and it's easy to tighten the pull rods AGAINST the shoulder instead of having the shoulder placed THROUGH the rod. This is particularly easy after you grease the assy, cuz the seals are full of grease making the bolts effectively even SHORTER!

You should be able to lever the rear on the kickstand...touch/bounce it some on the ground. There should be NO movement that's not activating the shock spring. NO free play whatsoever, nowhere.

Oh...set your race sag first thing. Well...kinda gotta after a spring replacement. Seems a commonly overlooked item...and about the most important suspension setting you can/should/have to do.

But hey!! ....Every FOG knows about that, I 'spose. ;)

Have a blast!!!

***edit***
BTW..use the best grease you can get. A waterproof marine application grease from belray has been used to good end by some posters. Your general one each moly chassis lube won't work. Well...won't work meaning you'll be replacing the bottom shock bearing OFTEN if you use it. I went through about four of 'em (replaced with sleeve and new seals at the same time) before I got some good grease (hydrotech parasyn70).

Brakeclean is a good product for cleaning the bearings. Makes a mess! But it works!! (eye protection a good idea)

Thanks Canyancarvr for the excellent info.I go to the justkdx site often but the greasing instructions are rather vague.Doesn't get down to the fine details of the procedures.Also do you need any "Special Tools" for the stem head bearings?

Originally posted by Fuzzy Dice
Thanks Canyancarvr for the excellent info.I go to the justkdx site often but the greasing instructions are rather vague.Doesn't get down to the fine details of the procedures.Also do you need any "Special Tools" for the stem head bearings?

Click to expand...

Taken from JustKDX Site "Disassemble the rear suspension linkage, using a clean rag wipe as much of the existing grease out as you can ( if it’s a new-to-you bike then clean the bearings out with solvent and air blow dry ) and repack the bearings. Don't forget to slather a generous layer on the seals either. You don't want to damage them before you even have a chance to ride. If you're really on the ball you do the same thing with the steering stem bearings too." Not too specific you know.

You won't be gunshy after you do it. Then you'll say, 'Gee..CDave did it just right'!!

Nothing 'speshul' for the steering head, neither. BUT!!...put it back together correctly. Basic roller bearing assy methods apply. Basically, with slight upward pressure on the stem, rotate back and forth as you tighten the stem nut to spec (manual says 29 ft/lbs. Good 'n snug will do). THEN...while continuing to hold the stem in place, LOOSEN the stem nut 'until it turns lightly', then retighten until it 'just becomes hard to turn.'

BTW...the head NUT (not the spanner ring) is tightened to 33ft/lbs.
**edit**
I should note that the above ' ' and torque settings are from the svc manual.

AND..while I've read of riders doing stem maintenance with the front end assembled, I wouldn't try it. Way too much weight to mess with. It only takes a few minutes to slip the forks out, anyway. With NO weight on the stem, it's much easier to feel the 'snick' of a bad bottom bearing. If you can feel it, you might as well replace it. Chances of a cleaning and regreasing fixing that is about zip-point.
****

Greasing the stem is a great idea. Make it part of your regular maintenance. If the bike is 'new to you', do it now!!

Thanks again CanynCarvr.Any wisdom you share shows that you care. :D It is greatly appreciated.

I had the same mid life (42 years old then), hadn't ridden in 20 years, bought a KDX 2 years ago, experience. After you get used to riding and the bike WOT runs in 4th or 5th gear are no problem. In fact, it won't be enough. Then you will have to do the R&B carb mod and re-jet all over again. ;)

Amen Jim Crenca ! I am 41 and feeling as though I'm 14 again(1st bike was brand new Honda XL70 at 14 yrs old).Just looking at my KDX is a fantastic feeling.Now I need to hurry up and get it trail worthy so I can get those butterflys in my stomach again.Dang,I should have bought a bike way sooner than this. :aj: