Fork Seal Job--2000 CR

jaction125

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#1
My poor CR needs new fork seals. I have no idea how to do this, my question is how much should this cost to have done , and does anyone wanna do it for me? ;)

I've tried to get a hold of Jeremy Wilkey a couple of times but to no avail. I think this type of job may be a little below him.

I have been just wiping up the mess and changing front brake pads as they get contaminated but that just isn't floating the proverbial boat anymore.

Any suggestions? Jeremy, you out there?
 

Rich Rohrich

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#2
Jeremy was at Dirtweek so he might have fallen a bit behind in getting back to people. Try him this week.

FWIW, I've never known Jeremy to think that servicing forks is "beneath" him. ;)
 
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#3
its easy as long as you are some what mechanicly inclined. I bought a nice fork seal driver from rach tech for like 60 bucks or something like that. got my seals from moose or whatever. The tools you will need are as follows:
something big to loosen the HUGE nut on the top of your outer forks. You need a big socket to loosen and spin out the inner big nut on top of the forks. Then you pull out the top inner nut carefully rocking it back and forth with a rag wrapped around to top of the fork. When it comes out it is bringing a long piece that is all one unit with a piston on it and if you dont have a rag wrapped around the top of what your doing you are going to get messy. WEAR EYEGLASSES WHEN EVER WORKING ON SUSPENSION. After that is out, you can then flip the forks over and let the oil drain out in to a bucket. You will need to fabricate a Honda Twinchamber fork tool for the bottom of the forks. Take a socket and preferabley put it on a air tool and loosen the nut on the bottem of the fork. Now assuming you have either made or bought your own honda fork tool clamp. Push the fork against a rafter on a wall, pushing off of say the axle holder on the fork that way as you compress the fork you see the nut pushing out of the fork because its not screwed in anymore. This is when you now put your fork tool in the desired spot which is on or before the inner nut that is about a 12mm i think. Now you can loosen then big nut all the way off of the rebound rod. Cation::: do not over tighten when reinstalling this intital part and make sure the rebound clickers are set all the way out so that when you tighten everything up you dont snap the rebound adjusters. With the nut and rebound off of the fork you can pull the rebound rod out if it doesnt come out with the nut and hardware. Push against the wall again and take your tool out. now the fork will un spring it self. You can now loosen and remove the top outer nut ontop of the fork and take the inner chamber out of the outer. Now you are down to working on the fork seals. you want to remove the dust seal on the forks carefuly, I use a plastic tool i made but if you use a screw driver dont slip or you are goign to scratch your for leg and that alone will ruin the new seals. then you have to remove a clip up inside the fork that you will see. A nice little pic works great but again done hit the bottom fork leg. Ok now you are ready to seperate the forks from eachother. I used to a torch but only cause I didnt have a hair dryer. DONOT heat them up too much. Anytime I use a torch ot warm something i have my hand near the flame kinda so I know how hot I am warming something. Get the forks pretty warm not so it would hurt to hold it though. And in one thursting pull, take them apart from eachother. Now you can remove the old fork seal and pay attention to how it was on there. You will have to remove the bushings and clean everything up. Then I use a plasic bag material to put the fork seals and bushing back on. Now you know how to do it. I would go to Jermeys site where it is all explained more professionly. Theres no reason you cant learn to do this. Just becareful and take your time and make sure everything is spotless when it goes back together. I would buy a rach tech video on how to work on forks, they are really really good at teaching people. Or you could forget all that and have someone else to it LOL
 

jaction125

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#4
Wow, I knew there was a reason I don't do this on my own. But I will say this: Eventually I will figure out how to do this, but I'm not gonna learn on my bike :confused: Thanks for the explanation Mr. Dan!

I live fairly close to Jeremy so I may just wait until I get a hold of him, thanks again. I'd like to get one or two more riding days in this year but we'll see :whiner:
 
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#5
not sure how much oil you have lost but if you continue riding with a lack of proper lube you are going to have a much more expensive repair bill. surely you realize there are metal parts rubbing against each other. lack of oil is exactly the same effect as your engine operating without oil.