freezing throttle?

Does the push/pull on the throttle work properly when the bike isn't running? Just wondering if the controls are mounted properly on the handlebars on that side, may be a stupid thing to bring up, but sometimes the large lip on the inside of the grip will rub on the front brake perch or the throttle assembly is mounted to close to the end of the handlebar.

If the mechanicals of the throttle assembly are working fine (replace the cable too). Describe the throttle sticking syndrome, how, when , etc. (i.e.fast idle , won't throttle down). Make a quick check of the "dry side engine crankshaft seal by removing the left side engine cover, and look for ant signs of wetness on the case near the crankshaft/behind the mag. No need to do any further disassembly to do this check. Now, grab the fly wheel in one hand and try to lift it, push it in/out, move it left/right. Any movement infintessinally small other than rotational is a sure sign of bad crank bearings and leaking seals. Wetness alone indicates leaking crank seal. This will make the idle erratic, engine hard starting, and the throttle to seem to stick wide open. On the other side, if the wet seal side is leaking similar syndrome, but you'll also be fouling plugs, losing tranny fluid, plus all the other symptons. A '97 may need a major bottom end rebuild. They get $700-$900 around her with the motor out of the bike for that job.
OD

Open up the throttle and clean it out. Also when you put the cable in put something on it to make it slide easily. I'll get back to you soon with the name of the stuff.

This may sound odd but does it stick when the wheel is straight or in turns. If it is only in turns check your cable routing. If it is on the wrong side of the bolt that holds the front plate it will rev in turns. Both of my CR's came off the floor that way.