Spring recommendations will vary. Proper selection varies with rider preference and type of riding done. For trail riding, 195# will put you in the .42kg/mm range.
You can run your stats thru the RaceTech website and get their rec. They are usually on the high side.
re: USD forks and '..bigger diameter being on the bottom ..'
Just backwards. The KDX oem forks have the bigger diameter on the bottom. Those are usually called 'conventional' forks. USD, or 'Up-Side-Down' forks have the larger diameter on the TOP.
A USD setup will have about zero underhang (distance fork extends below the front axle). After you get the oem KDX forks stuck in a couple of ruts you'll understand how that can be a big deal.
USD forks are generally just better. They ('cuz of the racing application) have been subjected to a higher degree of refinement than conventional forks. KDX oem forks do not have rebound control (clickers), USD forks do (well any I've seen...maybe some dont'). You can put rebound adjustment in KDX forks (Jeremy @ MX-Tech does it), but it's not cheap. I've read references to USD forks being somewhat stronger due to things like a larger clamping area in the triple clamp/top clamp area. I guess. The downtubes of conventional forks are steel and the valving assembly is aluminum. I know there are problems with some USD forks and 'stiction' just because the valving body is in the clamps.
The fork underhang is a huge deal, imo. The KDX KYBs (fork mfg.) are something close to 4"!!! YeoW!!
**edit**
BTW, while the seals on top of the oil seals are dust seals, they sure work much better with less dust to deal with.
Not to put too fine a point on it, but if you're thinking of taking the covers off....don't. That would be a not-smart thing to do. (read: stoopid) ;)
re: '94 KDX USD forks
I ain't never seen a '94, neither! I knew I'd best put that caveat in there! ;)