front spring preload spacer install question

M

minidog

Member

May 18, 2002

43

0

• Mar 22, 2003

• #1

2002 kdx 200- new Freddette springs in with no instructions with them. Just looked thru sites for a couple of specific questions and couldnt find anything. Number 1 question;What is the recommended weight oil to use in forks for myself (150 pounds without gear, average rider). Number 2 queston; I dont understand where the preload spacers (pvc pipe) go. Pulled out old springs -pretty simple- but this has me a little baffled. Does the pvc go inside of the metal spacer with end caps on both ends (which would allow the metal spacer to flop up and down since the pvc is cut an extra 10mm for preload(?) or just cut pvc to length of metal spacer plus 10mm and leave out metal spacer alltogether. Or am I just totally out of ballpark with my thinking. Tried calling Freddette Racing a couple of times with no one there by the time I get home to make the call. I understand everything else about the spring installation. This site has very good info and have learned quite alot but have searched with no results on these specific questions. Thanks again for your input.

 

K

KnoxKDX

Member

Jan 29, 2003

155

0

• Mar 23, 2003

• #2

Although the information is certainly in here, I'lll answer this for you...Although you can buy juice specifically designed for your forks and Fredette recommends mixing a 5w and 10w together, many folks just use Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF which works wonderfully in this application.

As for the spacer, you are supposed to get a piece of 1" pvc pipe and cut it down until you have your preload where you want it (replace the stock spacers with your own). Depending on the springs, most folks like 10mm-20mm. The more preload you have the stiffer the ride will be. Another option (if your good enough and have the right tools) is to just cut the stock spacers down to meet your requirements. I did this with mine and it worked great.

Good Luck!

 

M

minidog

Member

May 18, 2002

43

0

• Mar 23, 2003

• Thread starter
• #3

Thanks for input, understand now about oil weight but still a little confused about pvc pipe. The way I understand your reply is that I will not be using the metal spacer at top of fork anymore and to replace it with a piece of pvc pipe that is approx. 10 mm longer than the metal spacer. Am I reading this the correct way? Also, whats a good oil level from top of tube or a quantity? Again thanks for replies!

 

M

Mac

LIFETIME SPONSOR

May 17, 2000

505

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• Mar 24, 2003

• #4

The PVC was included incase you want a different preload. The PVC is used INSTEAD of the metal spacer. The stock metal spacers give you around 20 to 25mm preload. If you want 10mm less preload then cut the PVC 10mm shorter than the metal spacer.

I would not go with more preload than stock. 20 to 25mm preload is considered high by many on this board. I think Fredette likes alot of preload and will recommend the stock spacers if asked. Alot of KDXers run between 8 and 15mm preload depending on taste.

 

C

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~

Oct 14, 1999

4,005

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• Mar 24, 2003

• #5

My imo and all...but you should cut the PVC pipe to a specific length based on measurement of the assembly.

With the spring in, spacer/washers out and the fork cap on, measure the space between the top of the spring and the bottom of the cap (rod fully extended). Say it's 90mm. The washers are around 3mm, so if you cut a piece of PVC 97mm long, you'll have 10mm of preload.

Measure each fork and cut to fit. Don't make 'em both the same having measured just one spring. Well, unless you know for sure the springs are exactly the same length.

BTW..make sure the clips on the bottom of the spring came out when you removed the old springs. Re-clip them to the new springs. If you didn't get the clips out with the oem spring..they're still at the bottom of the fork and you have to get them out!

When you reassemble, screw on the top cap by turning the tube, not by turning the cap.

Oil level by a local tuner's figgers is good @ 110 on the kdx. I've generally run 100. It's easier to add some (via the bleeder screws) than it is to take some out.

 

M

minidog

Member

May 18, 2002

43

0

• Mar 24, 2003

• Thread starter
• #6

Hey, thanks guys. Will try them this week and let you know about results. Got to figure how to make an oil level gauge and get oil for forks. I know its on this site somewhere. Sounds pretty simple. Some other questions(probably need to get a manual, huh?)- do I have to take engine out of frame for a top end rebuild or can it stay in? How does one select a set of handlebars to fit them properly? (sort of like trying on a pair of pants or shirt for fit). What is a good company to order mx front # plate that is white like side panels and of good quality and price? Sorry for so many questions. Thanks again

 

C

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~

Oct 14, 1999

4,005

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• Mar 25, 2003

• #7

fork gauge:

A large animal syringe (any feed store/grange place) with a piece of tubing attached. Assemble to desired length (say 100mm), overfill the fork...extract the excess.

......spring out, fork collapsed, rod down.

Yep. Get a manual.

Engine stays in for topend job. Plenty of room

re: handlebars

No 'properly' to it. It's a matter of choice. Rockymountain has a listing of handlebar specs for oem bars. Will allow you to change your choice to suit you.

re: mx stuff.

Don't know. I didn't buy an mx bike (actually I didn't buy ANY bike...but that's another story ;) ), so I'm not interested in mx parts.

Cheers!

 

T

TVRider

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Oct 29, 2002

356

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• Mar 25, 2003

• #8

Where can I get a service manual for my 03 200? I looked on buykawasaki.com and all they had were parts manuals.

 

limitless

subscribed

~SPONSOR~

Aug 11, 2002

568

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• Mar 25, 2003

• #9

goto your local dealer and ask him to order a manual....

 

M

minidog

Member

May 18, 2002

43

0

• Mar 26, 2003

• Thread starter
• #10

Thanks for all the input from everyone. Answered lots of questions for me. However, I am not trying to make my bike a mx machine. Front headlight assembly is broken at plastic mounts and I am not quite ready to purchase new unit at a cost of approx. 80 bucks. Hoping to get a plate and put the additional money into something useful, like nice handlebars. Already changed rear spring rate and am still working on front of bike for a balanced package and then will work on handlebars and hopefully that will be the end of first phase (handling). Then will move on to engine as the next phase. Thanks again everyone, this is a really nice forum with lots of knowledge!

 

limitless

subscribed

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Aug 11, 2002

568

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• Mar 26, 2003

• #11

I feel ya on the MX thing! I want to buy an MX rear fender and number plate too (I can't afford it right now though). I don't want an MX bike I just happen to like the way the KDX looks with these "mods". I like the way MX bikes look, but I love the KDX! So why not have my cake and eat it too?

I'll always have my lights for those night rides....