Well I just got my YZ400F the other day and the bike is awesome. It's a 1998 model and is pretty much stock and in great shape. When I first test rode the bike at the guys house I knew I wanted it. The motor on this bike is just great, and everything else is such a step up from the KDX. I'm still getting used to the extra weight and four stroke power delievery but so far I'm loving it. The starting issue hasn't been much of a problem so far and somehow I manged to get the bike started first kick when I went to look at the bike. But of course it took me close to 15 when I got the bike home :think I've stalled it once and just gave up for a couple minutes and it started right back up. I'm going to try and take some pics tommorow and get them posted up on here. It does seem like a very complicated bike, especially compared to my KDX, just by taking a look through the manual and at the carb I could tell it's definetly a lot different. Let me know if there's anything I should be paying attention to on the bike or if there's anything I should do to it. Is a new exahaust really worth all that money? The current stock header on the bike is a bit used and starting to corrode a little. I'll get some pics up tommorow. Thanks everyone for the great advice on the YZ400, I'm totally happy with it.
Got a YZ400F!
- Thread starter TheMort
- Start date
wayneo426
Sponsoring Member
Conga-rats
Good luck Mort. You will find its a bit different from your KDX, but after getting used to it, you'll be alot happier than you are now!
Good luck Mort. You will find its a bit different from your KDX, but after getting used to it, you'll be alot happier than you are now!
Congrats
I also have a '98 and LOVE mine. I have the FMF powerbomb header and IV/2 spark arrestor, little more noise, but it gets the pipe out of the way to change the oil.
BMP.com makes a spark arrestor for the stock pipe, and all aftermarket headers do not have a heat shield, watch out I burned my pants until I welded the stock heat shield onto the FMF pipe.
So far mine has been bullet proof, just change the oil and clean the air filter and ride.
Mike
I also have a '98 and LOVE mine. I have the FMF powerbomb header and IV/2 spark arrestor, little more noise, but it gets the pipe out of the way to change the oil.
BMP.com makes a spark arrestor for the stock pipe, and all aftermarket headers do not have a heat shield, watch out I burned my pants until I welded the stock heat shield onto the FMF pipe.
So far mine has been bullet proof, just change the oil and clean the air filter and ride.
Mike
Re: Congrats
Will Pattison made up a really slick stainless steel heat shield that can be bolted on to afte market pipes. At the time I think he made up a few extras in case anyone wanted one.
Mort - I think you'll find the YZF to be a reliable and remarkably fun bike. My 98 is one of the few bikes I'll keep in my collection.
Will Pattison made up a really slick stainless steel heat shield that can be bolted on to afte market pipes. At the time I think he made up a few extras in case anyone wanted one.
Mort - I think you'll find the YZF to be a reliable and remarkably fun bike. My 98 is one of the few bikes I'll keep in my collection.
Good deal, I just got a 99 WR 400F about 4 weeks ago. I took it for some muddy soggy trail riding when I got it and opened it up on the straights and hills for the first time last weekend. Let me briefly share some things to look out for on a used bike, GO OVER EVERYTHING!!!, It was ideling rough so I cracked the carb open to find the accelerator pump packed with grit. I then found an oversized main jet, and the pilot screw not only fully seated but torqued down tight, shold be at least 1 1/4 turns out! Next I pulled the front wheel to check the bearings and saw the left side fork tube drop about 4 inches once I pulled the wheel off! I opend up the fork and found the damping rod not even bolted to the end cap. I was riding around on only one fork tube! I popped the right side open and the damping rod fell off as I was unscrewing the end cap, it was never tightend! I checked for damage and bolted it up and tightned the jam nut down, and started wondering what else Mr. BadWrench might have gotten into. I only pray he never tried to adjust the valves or YZ time it, he said he didnt but I have not pulled the valve cover off yet, I suggest going over the bike with a full manual service check as far as servicing all bearings, and checking the valves, oil and forks out. Oh yeah, your supposed to run the bike for like 5 mins, let it sit 5 before checking the oil, if you dont run it it looks like its off the stick, I overfilled the bike this way and was pushing oil out the breather before I found this out, it is in the book though, I would not wipe my but with most owners manuals but read the Yamaha one cover to cover, the tuning part is great for setting the jetting and carb and stuff. Good luck! Enjoy!
Tony Williams
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Mar 23, 2000
- 592
- 0
Re: Re: Congrats
I gotta agree. I even tried selling mine (unsuccessfully), so I guess I'm destined to keep it (even if I do get another bike in the future).
It's been good...
I gotta agree. I even tried selling mine (unsuccessfully), so I guess I'm destined to keep it (even if I do get another bike in the future).
It's been good...
- Thread starter
- #10
Took a bit longer than I expected, but here are some pics of the bike that I took today,
There's a bunch more if anyone's interested here,
YZ400F Pics
There's a bunch more if anyone's interested here,
YZ400F Pics
Jay_01'RM125
Member
- Jun 17, 2001
- 4
- 0
Looks real Clean, Very nice..........
Can I ask what you payed?
:D
Can I ask what you payed?
:D
- Thread starter
- #15
Jay, I got a pretty good deal at $2900. Yeah, the frame is pretty worn, but maybe i'll get it painted but not really a big deal to me as it'll just wear again. I do have a bit of a problem though now, I went riding today and was coming down a bit of a hill through a bit of a rock pile and somehow lost control of the bike and went down pretty hard. The clutch lever bent and decompression lever snapped off and the bars bent a pretty good amount. But after getting the bars off I noticed that the triple clamps or forks are bent or crooked. Like when I have the top triple clamp directly centered, the 2nd clamp is a bit off to the right and the front wheel is crooked quite a bit. Like in this pic,
Now the wheel is no longer centered but is facing to the right even though the clamps are centered. I'm not sure where it could be bent, I looked over it and noticed nothing obvious, but I'm obviously missing something. Is this something the shop could fix, bend it back or will I need a new clamp? I've got no idea what's wrong or how to fix it? Any ideas? Thanks.
Now the wheel is no longer centered but is facing to the right even though the clamps are centered. I'm not sure where it could be bent, I looked over it and noticed nothing obvious, but I'm obviously missing something. Is this something the shop could fix, bend it back or will I need a new clamp? I've got no idea what's wrong or how to fix it? Any ideas? Thanks.
check the fork tubes for straightness. If they are OK, the tubes could just be twisted in the triple clamps. Get the bike back together,sit on bike, put right side of tire against something solid (tree, fencepost, corner of garage, etc.) & give the handlebars a mighty twist to the right. This usually staightens 'em out. It might take a few tries. :confused: Good Luck! :)
smack 'em
Yep,
I agree with the previous post. Sometimes the forks 'twist' in the clamps. After falls I sometimes have to find a tree and smack the wheel against it to 're-center' the tire. You can do this with the clamps loose or tightened to spec, (14ft lbs bottom, 18 top I think).
No worries. As far as the de-comp lever, Chaparral sells a billet one for like $12. I am considering going to aluminum hand guard for just that reason.
Mike
Yep,
I agree with the previous post. Sometimes the forks 'twist' in the clamps. After falls I sometimes have to find a tree and smack the wheel against it to 're-center' the tire. You can do this with the clamps loose or tightened to spec, (14ft lbs bottom, 18 top I think).
No worries. As far as the de-comp lever, Chaparral sells a billet one for like $12. I am considering going to aluminum hand guard for just that reason.
Mike
went to "eric gorr's" tech fest and:
there was a youg lady that endo her bike some thing blue? and the supension guy showed us to looen up the forks in the triple clamp and bounce the front end a bit to let the fork go back where they want to be, then side the froks back where they should be, then check out if they straightened up for you© and a make sure you only torque the triple clamp to oem spec's©
there was a youg lady that endo her bike some thing blue? and the supension guy showed us to looen up the forks in the triple clamp and bounce the front end a bit to let the fork go back where they want to be, then side the froks back where they should be, then check out if they straightened up for you© and a make sure you only torque the triple clamp to oem spec's©
Last edited:
Tree Crippler
Member
- Jun 8, 2000
- 136
- 0
Welcome to team BLUE. Since I made my WR400 street legal it will be in the garage for a long time. Disconnect the grey wire or not is the question. You don't have to worry about this.
