Matt90GT

Member
May 3, 2002
1,517
1
Lets think about this for a bit.

When you have a crash impact then energy of the crash has to go somewhere. Think of Indy cars and car crumple zones. The more energy you can absorb from the impact, the safer the driver or parts/rider in this case.

So having a gaurd give, but not bend would seem more ideal than a solid one. otherwise you are for sure going to turn the tripple trees to the stops and from there who knows with a solid one. Where a gaurd like the Acerbis which are some of the softer ones out there will bend a bit. You should not have to worry about it being crushed down as you have the brake master cylinder on the right hand along with the throttle tube assemble and then the clutch lever on the left side keeping the gaurds from collapsing to the bars.

last ride I went one, I uprooted a 20 foot tall by 6" diameter tree at about 35mph when I impacted it. Things happen you know! I do run the Rally Pro units and they are alright. with the Woods bend Protapers they are tough to mount and keep the inside mount from sliding up. But that is a Protaper/Fatbar thing there.

The one nice thing about them being soft is that you can contour them more to fit around your levers. just be sure you mount them solid and you should not have any broken wrist there - and that goes for ANY brand!

For the comments on the levers, I know where you are coming from. you can slide the controls in a bit on the bar, but if you run woods bars that are shorter, you run out of room. Thus just cut the ball off the end of the stock lever or run shorty levers so that they fit inside the gaurds.
 

JCW

~SPONSOR~
Jan 23, 2003
333
0
I think the real key is whether or not the bark busters are "angled in" to slide off of a tree vs. hit the tree squarely, take the bike away from you, and launch you over the top. A lot of what I see today (ex. the Acerbis with the aluminum and plastic together) look great and allow you to keep full levers and not really notice the bark busters. Unfortunately, they are parallel to the bars and as a result they are wider in turns and they don't bounce off of trees like the slanted Moose busters, etc. Slanted bars make it easier to work through tight trees and they let you hit trees with the outside 3" of the bars and bounce off. Everyone who rides in tight woods (in 2nd and 3rd gear) is going to hit trees. To me the ability to bounce off and keep going is more important than what the bars are made of.

Just my two cents worth-
JCW
 
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