VintageDirt

Baked Spud
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Terry,

So I got the TR6R, as you already know. The fun has just begun, I fear.

I thought I wouldn’t need much in the way of parts but it seems the list is not really a short list but rather a living list.

1st thing I noticed is the plugs were extra black with soot and they were B7s where the book says B8s. So I got some new B8s and a 190 main jet (had a 230 but I’m at 5000’).
Starts up nice and runs purdy good.

Now the oil leaks seem more than I was prepared for. So I got out my good glasses and my bright light and started studying the under the neath.

Hmmm, seems like a steady drip coming from the primary drainer plugger/chain adjuster. So I take off the primary cover and give it a gooder look.
Well the dang case has a bit of a crack or it seems like maybe the drain hole/adjuster doodad hole maybe has been drilled and retapped leaving a not so beefy place to keep the oil in if it cracks. But when I tighten the plug the crack doesn’t seem to open up any bigger. I used a couple cans of PJ contact cleaner to douche out the oil and then I filed the crack with a tiny file of the exact right Whitworth dimensions and then I got some AngloSaxon JB weld and some more PJ. Douched it again and filled the flaw with the perfect mix. Left a hunnert watt bulb aimed at it for a couple days and put it back together. There sure is an impressive number of places for these things to leak oil.

Went for a ride, checked for leaks, went for a ride, no leaks. Awesome! Let it sit in the garage for 5 days and not a drop. Awesommer!!! Went for another ride and it burnt up a set of points. Got some newn’s and some condensers and put ‘em in. Thought I’d better just check the valve clearances and the intakes were fine but the exhausts were tightern’ Pred wearin’ his wife's panties. Adjusted ‘em (valves not Pred's panties) and tried to fix the horn too ( I only throw that in because everything seems to be connected in some way to the center of the universe). Well couldn’t fix the horn but I put it all back together and it started right up and sounds great.

But the oil light slowly started brightening until it glows steady. Well that seems like an odd thing to happen all of a sudden. I took out the sending unit and made a Rube Golberg contraption to get 20 psi on it and I can make the light go on and off at will.

So, what do you think I goofed up to lose oil pressure? I started it with the sending unit out and oil comes out the hole real good.

Also, it sure is hard to remember that this thing is positive ground and shifts on the right!!! I mean it only matters when you forget.

Wes
 
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Ol'89r

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VintageDirt said:
Also, it sure is hard to remember that this thing is positive ground and shifts on the right!!! I mean it only matters when you forget.
Wes

Wes.

What matters more is that the brake is on the left. :whoa:

If those old Triumphs aren't leaking oil, it's because they are out. Kinda like a Harley without the vibrating foot pegs. :laugh:

A B7 is too hot. Should have A B8 or B9. Soot was probably caused by too fat of jetting and the altitude.

The cracked primary chain adjuster boss is caused by using the old sealing washer over and over and over-tightening the plug. The washer forms itself into a little wedge and splits the case at the thread. Can be tig welded.

Where did you find those Whitworth files? Been looking for one of those for years. ;)

When you adjust your valves, be sure the valve on the left side is fully open when you adjust the valve on the right side and visa versa.

Your horn was designed and built by a guy named Joe Lucas, aka, "The Prince of Darkness". There is no logical reason why it works or doesn't work. You can try to adjust the little screw on the back of it while pushing the horn button.

Good thing you replaced the condensers too. Bad condensers will cause a set of points to burn. Some of the guys reading this are asking, what the hell's a condenser? :coocoo:

The loss of oil pressure concerns me. There are only a few things that will cause that. Excessive clearance on the big end of the rods or a cracked crank journal. Bad crank seal in the timing cover. Bad oil pressure release valve in the timing cover or a bad oil pump. You can access the crank seal and the oil pump by removing the timing cover. Make sure the oil pump has good suction and the check balls are sealing. Something as simple as a piece of dirt in one of the check balls will reduce oil pressure. Remove the oil pressure release valve from the front of the timing cover and check the piston and spring for proper movement. This valve blows off the excess oil pressure when the pressure gets too high. Make sure the spring is ok and the piston is not stuck open. I would recommend using a pressure gauge in place of the sending unit to find out what the actual pressure is.

Now, if I can just get this mental image of Pred in his wifes panties out of my mind. :yikes:
 

Rich Rohrich

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Ol'89r said:
Your horn was designed and built by a guy named Joe Lucas, aka, "The Prince of Darkness". There is no logical reason why it works or doesn't work.

Which brings to mind one of my favorite motorcycle related sayings of all time:

If Lucas built guns there would be no wars. :whoa:
 

VintageDirt

Baked Spud
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Rich Rohrich said:
Which brings to mind one of my favorite motorcycle related sayings of all time:

If Lucas built guns there would be no wars. :whoa:
Well then let's just get it over with...

Why do the English drink warm beer?
They have Lucas refrigerators.

The Lucas motto: "Get home before dark."

Lucas denies having invented darkness. But does claim the "sudden, unexpected darkness"

Lucas is the patent holder for the short circuit.

Lucas - Inventor of the first intermittent wiper.

Lucas - Inventor of the self-dimming headlamp.

The three position Lucas switch - Dim, Flicker and Off. The other three switch settings - Smoke, Smolder and Burn.

The Original Anti-Theft Device - Lucas Electrics.

If Lucas made guns, wars would not start either.

Did you hear about the Lucas powered torpedo - It sank!

It's not true that Lucas, in 1947, tried to get Parliament to repeal Ohm's Law. They withdrew their efforts when they meet too much resistance.

Did you hear the one about the guy that peeked into a Land Rover and asked the owner "How can you tell one switch from another at night, as they all look the same ?" "He replied, it does not matter which one you use, nothing happens !"

Lucas systems actually uses AC current; it just has a random frequency.

Back in the 70's, Lucas decided to diversify its product line and began manufacturing vacuum cleaners. It was the only product they offered which did not suck. (this joke has been known to be used when refering to Harleys)

QA called and told the Engineering they had trouble with his design shorting out so he made the wires longer.

Recommended procedure before taking on a repair of Lucas equipment: Check the position of the stars, kill a chicken and walk three times sunwise around your car chanting: " Oh mighty Prince of Darkness protect your unworthy servant.."

Also, George owned an AJS back in the 70s and he swears that if the neighbor three doors down was watering the lawn, the AJS wouldn't start.
 

Rich Rohrich

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Wes - It appears you are fully prepared for Triumph ownership. Enjoy the new ride. :cool:
 
B

biglou

VintageDirt said:
It's not true that Lucas, in 1947, tried to get Parliament to repeal Ohm's Law. They withdrew their efforts when they meet too much resistance.
Now that right there's funny, if you're of the electrical-minded type! :nod:
 

VintageDirt

Baked Spud
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So Terry, did you guys get to do much riding back in the day? I mean, sure it makes sense that you'd know a lot about fixin bikes and it shows in every post you make. But how inna heck did you learn to ride?
 

XRpredator

AssClown SuperPowers
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Aug 2, 2000
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don't knock the wife's underpants. they may be tight, but that's what makes 'em fun!
 

2strokesrock

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That was a crack up man:) I cant stop laughing. :cool:
 

helio lucas

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Jun 20, 2007
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my last name is lucas...
and when i was in the school i was studing electricity...
when i built something, it breaks soon after i finish it...
now i´m getting scared... :ohmy:
 

Ol'89r

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VintageDirt said:
So Terry, did you guys get to do much riding back in the day? I mean, sure it makes sense that you'd know a lot about fixin bikes and it shows in every post you make. But how inna heck did you learn to ride?


Wasn't so bad Wes.

While the two stroke guys carried pockets full of spark plugs, we had to carry pockets full of condensers. ;) The Lucas condensers were guaranteed for 30 days or 30 feet, whatever came first. :yell:

A couple of other things to check.

Remove the filter screen in the bottom of the oil tank and check for obstructions. Also, it wouldn't hurt to check the sump filter screen in the bottom of the engine. The sump screen won't cause low oil pressure but it can limit the amount of oil returning to the oil tank.

Mic the piston and bore in the high pressure release valve. This is the bullet shaped nut on the front of the engine right next to the timing cover. There should be a maximum clearance of .002". If there is too much clearance it will lower the oil pressure.

Your oil pressure should be 20 to 25 psi at idle and 65 to 80 psi at normal operating rpm.

Hey Helio.

Don't ever buy an electric car. :laugh:
 

VintageDirt

Baked Spud
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I checked that screen when I changed the oil but I'll get right on the relief valve clearances. I took it out and cleaned it too but I didn't mic it.
 
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