Hi all, newbie needs some tips

[Gibbo]

Hi all,

I'm new to the KDX and have a few questions on my bike if anyone can help... :coocoo:

The engine is rattling bad at low RPM but gets nice and smooth when I start to rev her up. The guy I bought it from said that I have to premix the fuel at 36:1 I did that but when I lifted the seat (something he'd obvioulsy not done) I found a Oil bottle that was half full. Now I'm guessing the motor is now running on about 12:1 would that cause my rattle ? she smokes too (a lot)

How sure can i be that the oil from the bottle is going in? is it a good system? do they often pack up? can I disable it temporarily to see if she runs different? or should i just drain the tank???

How can I test the oil bottle is doing it's job? I don't want to kill it..

Cheers guys and it's nice to be here, lovely bike too...

Oh it's a 1992 KDX 200

He didn't have it long and only ran it once, I'm guessing he thought it was knackered if he was putting way too much oil in it, I got it for a killer price.... :laugh:

He also mention that the previous owner took a reed valve out of it and left it out, whats that all about and should i put it back ? where does it live on the engine?

Thanks again in advance, i can't wait to get this baby running right. :cool:

 

[Papakeith]

Welcome to the forum. I'm going to move this one over to the KDX guys. They're sure to set you straight.
Well, as straight as a KDX guy can get. . .

Kidding, I'm kidding! :)


kinda ;)

 

[Gibbo]

OK it turns out the guy removed the power valve (KIPS) not sure why, how hard is it to put back ?

 

[EYY]

Hi mate, it definitely sounds like you need new crank bearings and seals. Crank bearings are easily heard if they have any play at idle. A damaged right hand crankseal will allow oil from the gearbox to enter the crankcase and combustion chamber, causing it to blow lots of blue looking smoke. I don't think too much oil would make it rattle, although would quieten it.

You may also have the kips (power valve) rattle, but it isn't usually very loud although it is noticeable. Your bike has sub valves which rotate in the head, and are moved by an actuating rod. The sub valves snap easily, and the teeth on them are stripped easily too because they are made from soft aluminum. I strongly suggest you remove the head and clean the valves and inspect them.

As for the oil injection, many people ditch it and run premix, purely for reliability reasons and peace of mind. I personally dont like using them. For the moment I'd suggest disconnecting the pump and get it running properly on premix before you try and get the injection working. To test of it is working, you can disconnect the line running to the carby from the oil pump with the bike running and check If any oil comes out.

These bikes need a reed valve to run properly. The reed assembly is located between the carb manifold and the cylinder head.

I have a 94, theyre great bikes! :)
Cheers

 

[EYY]

It's not that hard to put back of you're mechanically minded, and the valves seem to be available from Kawasaki still. Without the valves, it will have no torque and will probably only have top end. Does it still have the rod going from the gearbox to the top of the cylinder on the right hand side (hidden by the exhaust and should have a black boot over it)?

There are threads on here regarding the timing of the kips that you can find of you do a search. Make sure your looking at one for an 89-94 model though as later models are different

 

[Gibbo]

Hi guys,

I knew i'd come to the right place....

OK I have done a bit more investigation and yes the rod is still in place and moves left to right. and does so when I rev the bike up hard (ish) what I don't know is whether or not there are valves or not..

So it may be crank bearings, I've done the old listen to it with a screwdriver thing and i can't isolate the rattle at all...

How much work is involved in pulling the engine out and giving it a once over ?

 

[EYY]

I strongly recommend getting a service manual before you do any work to it at all.

To change the crank bearings and seals you will need to remove the engine from the bike, remove the top end and split the cases. Again, if you're mechanically minded and have a manual you should be fine.

When you're removing the arm on the top of that kips rod, remember that the but has a LEFT HAND thread. Many people manage to snap them trying to undo them.

Common problems with such old bikes are likely to involve worn cylinder plating, piston, clutch basket and kips valves. This is from my experience anyway.

Cheers