Hill Cimbimg on a TTR 250

Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
24
Likes
0
#1
I went hill climbing yesterday on my 01 TTR 250. Also along was a 00 WR 426 and an 01 YZ 250F. I have to say I was surprised with the TTRs ability and its agility. Obviously the WR walked all over me, (for outright power) as did the YZ. I tell you what though I wouldn't buy a YZ for a trail bike in a pink fit. Some of the hills we were attempting were pretty daunting and consequently there were some fairly impressive get offs. The TTR was a breeze to start again, even after having been dumped big time and flooded to the max. The WR started fairly easily as well, even without the aid of a button. But the YZ was a complete nightmare. It only had to be dropped on its side for a couple of seconds and it would take up to 40 minutes to get it going again.
 

sfc crash

Human Blowtorch
Joined
Jun 26, 2001
Messages
1,828
Likes
0
#2
do you have any mods on your ttr250? so it sounds as if the ttr250 did pretty well, i've been torn between the ttr250 and the wr426, but i love the elec start feature.i've got an old 87kdx200 that requires about a 1for 1 ratio of maintenance to riding time,where as i just bought the wife a new ttr225 and like it.hmmm...
 

JPIVEY

Sponsoring Member<br>Club Moderator
Joined
Mar 9, 2001
Messages
3,180
Likes
0
#3
sfc crash,

I have both a ttr250 and a yz250, there hasn't been anywhere that I wanted to go that the ttr couldn't get me with ez. Can't say the same for the yz but, it sure is fun trying.
 
Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
24
Likes
0
#4
sfc crash. My 01 TTR250 has got a Staintune powerpipe, 4 teeth bigger rear sprocket, snorkel and air box mods, different float position, bash plate and Renthal bars, original indicators removed and replaced with tiny rubber ones. The powerpipe makes heaps of difference, especially after the airbox - float mods. I was also thinking WR 426, but wanted the electric leg. When I first got the TTR I thought I'd made the wrong decision, but now I couldn't be happier. My mate's 426 goes like a bat outa hell and is reasonably easy to start, but not as easy as my TTR. As for the YZ, I reckon I'd end up destroying the thing with a sledge hammer out of frustrstion trying to start it.
OBEE
 
Last edited:

Magellan

Lifetime Sponsor
Joined
Mar 14, 2001
Messages
193
Likes
2
#5
Tell me more about those float mods?
And, what is your gearing. I think your bike may have been different than the US models, since it is sold as a street legal bike.

Mag
 
Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
24
Likes
0
#6
Magellan, Don't want to give you a bum steer on the float position. The makers of my powerpipe (Staintune) recommended changing the float position, but it's now running too rich. They also recommended changing the pilot jet, but when that was removed it was found to be the size they said to change to. I changed the gearing - 4 tooth up on the rear to help jumping logs etc. I won't be doing much road riding so I wanted it more lower geared. It was 48, now 52 teeth.The pipe has made heaps of difference. It never seems to run out of puff climbing really steep hills now.
 

Magellan

Lifetime Sponsor
Joined
Mar 14, 2001
Messages
193
Likes
2
#7
Fair enough. I just put an exh on my TTR, and it feels like a new bike.
Biggun recommended going up 3 on the main and 1 on the pilot.

I ended up going 2 sizes on the main (3 was too rich), so I'm running a 142 (stock was 137). Bike runs great except for right off idle.

Stock pilot was a 50. Yamaha only lists a 48 and a 50 here in the US (and those are for a different bike). I had a 48 that I bought for a mountain trip, so I had the shop drill it out 2 sizes. Haven't tested it yet, but have high hopes.

Mag
 

Obee

Member
Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
24
Likes
0
#8
G'day Magelan. I tried to reply earlier but haven't been able to get 'out' on the Net since Friday. Either has anybody else around here.
I'm going to take my bike to the shop later this week to have them muck around with the jetting and float position - again. It's just not quite right yet. I'm also going to give it it's first oil change. They recommend the first service at 1000Kms (600 miles), but although mines only done about 1/3 of that, the oil is starting to look a little dirty. I'm not running it in strictly by the book, cause otherwise I'd be miles behind all the other guys and besides, I reckon they need to be run in relatively hard.
Interesting that you are from Portland. I live about 15 minutes from Portland Victoria (AU). - Obee
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2000
Messages
507
Likes
0
#9
I learned this the hard way, but if you put the bike into second and ride up a steep hill and start to loose power, always down shift to 1st! haha I looped out 2 weeks ago on Devils BackBone at Haspin Acres in Indianna! And for all you TT-R250 owners out there do you think the TT-R250 can fly? I know it can, and as soon as I get these pictures scanned I will prove it! 260lb flying through the air!:p
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2001
Messages
9
Likes
0
#10
00 TTR250

I own a 2000 TTR250, it is a great bike. I have only had it for 4 months but it runs great and I like the way it soaks up trail junk with ease. I have not done any mods to it. What would you reccomend 1st. Pipe? I don't know anything about jetting and float and all the stuff that you guys are talking about, so go easy. Also I wanted to check out the picture and it will not display.
 
Joined
Nov 22, 2000
Messages
38
Likes
0
#11
TTR250

Hi TTRSean!
I had a TTR250, Your right its a great bike. The Mods I did to mine were quite simple. Remove the snorkel from the air box under your seat. It will let the bike breath better. Remove the baffle from the muffler. It is the black insert in the end of the muffler. Remove the small bolt on the chrome end cap and pull out the baffle. I did adjust the needle in the carb though, I Know your new to this stuff so was I. Just take your time. Go into your dealer and have the show you the carb break down. You will want to lower the clip on the needle 1 position (richer) I went with the Biggun system, head pipe and silencer. It made a huge difference power and weight wise. Just ask Magellan! Good luck;)
Strach
 

Obee

Member
Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
24
Likes
0
#12
G'day TTR Sean. Yeah take your time with any mods. I would most definately recommend a pipe though. You can muck around drilling the original, but it won't be as good as an after market power pipe. I chose Staintune - probably because they are made in Australia, plus they are pretty good and reasonably priced. As far as jetting and float positioning is concerned - see your bike shop. I did initially remove the snorkel, but have since modified it. IE: cut it down on angles directing more flow to the filter, plus I drilled 2 x 1" OD holes in the removable filter cover, about 2" above the centre line of the filter and 2" right of the centre line. This helps avoid getting a lot of water and mud etc in your filter box. Enjoy - Obee
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2001
Messages
9
Likes
0
#13
Thanks TTR

Thanks for the info. I rode yesterday and it has been raining here for a few days with a 2-day dry out. A bunch of puddles where before every whoop. I was just splashing through and the last one I went through was 15' wide by 20' long and my bike sank to above the seat. I spilled and than got up and hit the start button it started right up (under water) and I gunned it right out of the "lake". Gotta love the TTR250 electric start. My concern is the snorkel removal. Is it removable and re installable or do you definitely need to change the carb settings? Thanks again.
 

Obee

Member
Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
24
Likes
0
#14
TTR Sean. My snorkel was glued in, but came out easily. If you buy a power pipe the manufacturer will more than likey recommend any snorkel - jetting - float position info that best suits. If you aren't buying a powerpipe, my advice is modify the snorkel , drill the cover and ask your shop to advise on any jetting changes. Buy a pipe if you can though. The difference the powerpipe made to my bike is quite astounding.
Obee