CaptainObvious

Formally known as RV6Junkie
Damn Yankees
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jan 8, 2000
3,331
1
There are many posts on this subject. A quick search will yield hundreds of threads. In short, there are two schools of thought (1) caustic chemicals like gasoline, diesel and kerosene, and (2) harmless chemicals like no-toil.

Using method (1) above you would most likely re-oil your filter with petroleum based filter oils. Using No-Toil you would use No-Toil’s vegetable based filter oil.

I’ve been using no-toil for several years now with no ill effects – except one. Over time No-Toil does tend to dissolve the glue on Uni-Filters. I have been using Billy-Who filters with no problems as of late. I simply add ¼ cup of the cleaner to warm water and agitate my filter in it – in the kitchen sink. When dry I re-oil in a plastic bag.

I like to limit my exposure to handling petroleum products which is hard to do when maintaining dirtbikes.
 

ochster

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 11, 2000
690
0
Obvously different filter oils will require different "solvents". I personally still like the petroleum based filter oils and use stoddard solvent to clean the filters fallowed by a hot soapy water flush and rinse. You can buy this solvent at most auto parts stores and simply pour into a oil drain pan for use and then back into the 5-gallon bucket done. There will always be the "sludge" from the cleaning in the bottom, simply wipe out with a rag or newspaper and dispose in the garbage.

After removing the filter from the cage, I like to remove the dirt the same way it entered the filter. So holding the filter looking into the "cavity", I dip the top of the filter into the solvent enough to submerge wait a second or two, then raise up and do a little "drop and stop" with the filter to shake the solvent and dirt outward into the pan.Repeat this several times and then procede to do the sides the same way. I typically would divide the sides into like four segments of dipping and dislodging the dirt. I carefully avoid allowing the solvent to enter into the back (cavity) of the filter while doing this. The solvent which will now contain "fine particles" that are suspended will be re-introducing them into the clean inside and usually finer filtering media if you allow the solvent into the back. The solvent itself would have broke down and rinsed the oil off the inside of the filter which is sufficient, that is what is holding the dirt.

Next stage is the real cleaning now that the oil and large particles are removed. Fill a sink or tub up with hot water (if available) and use dishwashing liquid or even laundry detergent. Repeat the exact same process as before when using the solvent and the same care. Much finer particles will now be coming dislodged. Once done, do a final rinse directing the water into inside (cavity) of the filter carrying the particles out the way they went in through the course foam. Now take the filter and "slap" against your hand lightly to jar out the remaining water and particles. I do this in the same sequence I clean the filter in ie: top then sides in quarter sections. You will see the fine particles on your hand, and many times can see them in the filter and work them out with this process. Now let completely air dry before re-oiling.

I consider it ok to "squeeze" the filter into a ball or work in that style manner while cleaning, but never "wring" the filter out like a wash cloth as it will damage the seams.

I wear a quality nice fitting Nitrile glove while doing this or whenever using solvents.
 

ochster

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 11, 2000
690
0
No doubt when done "correctly" it is time consuming. But I believe it to be the most neglected maintenance item on most bikes. The air box itself should be the cleanest part of the bike.

Many teams simply replace them with new and never clean them.
 
Top Bottom