How do you bleed the front break?

I use a large syringe and some clear tube to draw 90% of the air out of the line. As you suck out the air/fluid you’ll need to add fresh fluid up in the reservoir. From there you can pump-n-dump. You can get a large syringe from a CVS or Pharmacy.

Did you search "Brake bleeding" or break bleeding?

I had to do this just a couple of days ago. I opened the master cylinder and worked the lever repeatedly until the fluid level started to go down. As soon as it did I topped it off and opened the bleeder just enough for the fluid to start to flow. I then pumped the lever repeatedly until fluid began to clearly stream from the bleeder, while at the same time making sure the fluid in the master cyliunder did not empty, and in a lightening quick move I closed the bleeder screw!
I've heard people having trouble doing this, so I must have just gotten lucky! It was a piece of cake.

Wibby

Here is how to bleed brakes:
1. Place a mason jar or other clear glass container on the floor just below the bleeder valve filled with about 2 to 3 inches of clean brake fluid.
2. Attach a clear hose such as fuel line, to the nipple of the bleeder valve with a cable tie or small hose clamp and place into the jar of brake fluid on the floor. Be sure that the hose end is submerged in the brake fluid and stays that way.
3. Clean the top of the master cylinder and remove the cover.
4. Top off the fluid. I use a soda straw, or a second piece of clear hose and transfer brake fluid from it's container to the master cylinder but dipping the hose into the container, put my finger over the end of the hose, remove and place over the master cylinder and release my finger. It's a little slow but if you try pouring straight from the container, it will get messy.
5. With a wrench, open the bleeder valve slightly.
6. Squeeze and release the brake lever. You will notice air bubbles in the fluid in the jar on the floor as the air in the hose is forced out with the old brake fluid being drained.
7. You might notice that when you release the brake lever, the fluid back washes up the hose from the jar. That is what the hose, jar and fluid are for: To keep from sucking air back.
8. Continue to pump the brake lever and keep the master cylinder filled using your straw or second clear plastic hose and the transfer method I described earlier. Note: If you have the time, you don't need to pump the lever, gravity will drain the fluid through. You only need to keep the master reservior full.
9. When enough fluid has cycled through to ensure a complete flushing of the brake system with new fluid, close the bleed screw snuggly.
10. Remove the hose from the bleed nipple, wipe the master cylinder mating surface off and replace the cover. Dispose of the old fluid and your'e done!

I had a time with mine as well. here's a good trick. pull the caliper off ther bike. pull the cap off the master. push the piston back into the caliper. be careful of the overflowing fluid from the master. then pump the brake lever three times, and repeat it all over again. after about the third time, put it all back togeter and try it. I tried a mighty vac, but this seems to work the best..........

If after everything is done and you still have air in the system then you need to take off the brake assembly from the fork and hold it above the bike and then pump/bleed it so that air bubbles will go UP with the flow of the fluid. You'll need two people to do this. The normal method sometimes fails because the air bubbles keep fighting the fluid flow because they want to rise (toward the lever/pump assembly.

First off on the older bikes, you need to inspect the caliper and the relation of the bleeder screw. If it is at the top of the caliper, you will trap air.

Look at this picture of a car caliper:

http://www.mpbrakes.com/bleederup.jpg

Try this link C&P if that did not work: http://www.mpbrakes.com/bleederup.jpg

On the 86 forks we just installed, we had to remove the caliper and tip it so the bleeder was at the highest point on the caliper. That got the remaining air out of the caliper and system.

One tool that is really nice to use is a MityVac pump. Basically a vacuum bleeder. You will first need to tape off the bleeder screw threads with some teflon tape to seal the air out. This allows the vacuum to pull the fluid, not air from the threads. The advantage to a vacuum bleeder is you can remove the caliper and bleed the air without pumping the MC lever. Very nice! Also helps suck up all the brake fluid for less mess.

Now the hardest thing to do is get the air out of the MC. If you pull the lever in about half way and then let it go, that seems to jolt the MC and will release air from the bore of the unit. Do that until there is no more air or bubbles in the lower unit. You will eventually see fluid stream up in the resevoir when you pump. that tells you no more air in the MC!

Then to bleed the caliper, put it on the bike. I still use the pump, but at like 5-10 on the dial. Then pump the lever about 4 times and then pull it to the bars while opening the bleeder screw. Keep the lever at the bars and then close the bleeder screw. SLOWLY let the lever up and the fluid level will drop in the MC. Keep the up cause if you suck any air, you start over! But do the pump the lever, to the handle and bleed routine about 4 times and you should have a rock solid lever -- granted if you got all the air out of the system first!!!

Typo -- if the bleeder is NOT at the top of the caliper, it will trap air.