how much drag is normal

[bigred455]

I have a 00 kx 250 i just put in a new set of plates and springs oem i had the bike since new.Used mobil 1 15/50 the basket is a little notched ,but doesn't need to be replaced.i can put the bike in gear with out any drag it stays put i can also start it in gear when i kick it it nudges a little bit then stays put,but when i am at the line and i hold the throttle with the revs up it wants to creep forward i hold the front brake anyway ,but you can feel the clutch biting a little bit.I tried valvoline 10/40 and now i have in mobil 1 mx4t 10/40 and it still does it .I get clean shifts with the power on my only complaint is when i am in second gear waiting to hole shot with the revs up it wants to creep forward.Would anyone consider this normal.I have a new clutch cable and my freeplay is adjusted correctly.It has always done this

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Keith 455
lets just ride

[This message has been edited by bigred455 (edited 04-25-2001).]

 

[MikeT]

I think you've covered all the bases. If you have the clutch free play adjusted correctly then the only other thing it could be is the notches. I think any bike is going to pull a little, so I wouldn't worry that much about it. I haven't raced in a while but I think I used to keep my finger on the front brake also. Just make sure you dn't put any EC rated oils in the tranny (5w-30, 10w-30, or 5w-50).

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[Casper250]

I have the same bike and the same problem. I noticed that it only starts to creep foward if i'm in gear for a while. I just thought that it was from heat building up in the clutch plates from reving it and there being some slight friction in the plates.I would also like to know if this is normal.

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faster till the fear of death is outweighed by the thrill of speed...

http://members.tripod.com/casper_12300/

 

[Senior KX Rider]

My KX also creeped when I bought it new. I started running Type F ATF in the gearbox and the problem went away. Been using it for two years now. I tried everything to stop the creeping with no luck until I changed gearbox oils. Don't mean to open THAT can of worms again but it worked for me. :)

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RIGHT WING AND LOVIN IT
Mark 99 KX 310

[This message has been edited by Senior KX Rider (edited 04-25-2001).]

 

[bigred455]

Thanks senior, like i said it only happens when i am revving in gear at a stand still not idleing in gear.Your saying type f took this away. What brand are you using. I hate to change my mobil.

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Keith 455
lets just ride

[This message has been edited by bigred455 (edited 04-25-2001).]

[This message has been edited by bigred455 (edited 04-25-2001).]

 

[SFO]

You said you changed both the drive and the driven plates?
If this doesn't alieveate the creeping you can shorten the clutch arm, drill a new hole in about .200" and create a longer clutch pushrod action.
Your clutch pull will become heavier....
Cluth action and gear protection is a balancing act that I might try to find other answers to than oil.
But hey, I am a machinist and live for mechanical situations to conquer...
You could also try to baffle the oil flow from the clutch, oil winding up on the clutch could be creating the creeper.

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01 wr426
99 ktm200

[This message has been edited by SFO (edited 04-25-2001).]

 

[KawieKX125]

I second the ATF idea, and also, my basket had some really bad notches, but the clutch still released fine. I filed it anyway becasue it was minorly slipping becasue of the notches and the clutch releases 10 times better than before.

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Aaron's web site

 

[Scoob]

shortening clutch pushrod

Ever since I got my used 1991 cr125 the clutch has always had drag (way to much). It wasnt until I ordered new clutch fibers that I found out the previous owner had 8 plates in there instead of the required 7!

So I changed the clutch fibers, putting in the proper number of plates, but then when I put it all back together my pressure plate would bottom out on the lifter before the contacting the fibers. I thought maybe that my cable just needed to be slackened, so I loosened it right down, but the pressure plate would still hit the lifter before the fibers. My first thought was to remove the steel ball inside the lifter to remove the clearance, but now I'm thinking it might be better to modify the pushrod. I am thinking of grinding about 1/8" - 3/16" off my pushrod. I dont see how a shorter pushrod could damage anything else. Please enlighten me.

I am looking for a cheap fix, I already wasted money on a new pressure plate and I dont want to try buying a new inner hub just to see if that is the problem.

So my question is this: would it be a good idea to shorten my pushrod? I think it would be, but then again I thought it would be better safe than sorry and ask the smart people of DRN before going ahead and doing it just in case I'm missing something. :eek:

My clutch is driving me crazy!

 

[dirtybkr]

Oil level ?

I have a 93 kx250 . When I used to refill the tranny with oil after a change I would fill to the middle of the sight glass .My clutch would drag a bit . I had a new clutch , the basket is in good shape and the free play at the lever was adjusted properly . I then started to use a ratio right to measure tranny oil . I fill with exacty the amount stated in my manual , even though the level does not reach the sight glass . The clutch works fine now . I just hope that it is enough oil . The plates have about 10 hours on them , we'll see how long they last .

 

[Scoob]

Re: Oil level ?

Originally posted by dirtybkr
I have a 93 kx250 . When I used to refill the tranny with oil after a change I would fill to the middle of the sight glass .My clutch would drag a bit . I had a new clutch , the basket is in good shape and the free play at the lever was adjusted properly . I then started to use a ratio right to measure tranny oil . I fill with exacty the amount stated in my manual , even though the level does not reach the sight glass . The clutch works fine now . I just hope that it is enough oil . The plates have about 10 hours on them , we'll see how long they last .

Oil is not the problem... my bike doesnt even have a sight glass, so I am forced to measure the amount I put in anyway...

 

[bigred455]

Wow i wrote this a while ago didn't think it would come up again.I hate to say it ,but bel ray gear saver got rid of the drag at the line,UNBELIEVEABLE

 

[spanky250]

Originally posted by Senior KX Rider
My KX also creeped when I bought it new. I started running Type F ATF in the gearbox and the problem went away. Been using it for two years now. I tried everything to stop the creeping with no luck until I changed gearbox oils. Don't mean to open THAT can of worms again but it worked for me. :)

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I can second this. My bike also creeped if I revved the engine high while stopped in first with the clutch pulled in. When I started using ATF-F, it stopped.

 

[Scoob]

atf-f

I think I will try the ATF type F... we shall see what happens.

 

[YZ250man]

I've used ATF F in my 89 YZ up to the day I sold it... I now have a 98 CR 250 and will be using Honda gear oil. I think next gear oil change I will start using the ATF F....good choice?

Also, in my 8 yr old's 01' KX 65 that I just bought, it says to use 10w30 oil (I know equiv to 80W gear oil)....but, should I use ATF F in this as well?

I know next to nothing about the oil properties and surely don't want to save a few pennies now and spend more later....