Husky WR360

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#16
OldTimer said:
Well, since my reference has disappeared...
Can any tell me the fork oil height for a '96 WXC360 and how to adjust it?
It's the only year in modern era to use the conventional fork design, so the 2000 manual is useless here.
I need to replace the seals and I have no idea how much oil I will need to put in the forks.
Manual is at the workshop but I think it was 120-140mm air gap or 670ml, but i'll check to be sure, this is wr360 dunno if its the same as WXC but WR was all we got over here :cool:
 
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#17
timmae 360 said:
Manual is at the workshop but I think it was 120-140mm air gap or 670ml, ...
Thanks, I got the rebuild done using a little guess work and those figures are about what I came up with.
The odd thing about these forks is that the right fork regulates rebound damping and the left fork regulates compression damping. :coocoo:
I guess it's normal for compression damping to occur only in the last couple inches of travel(?).
 
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#18
I put some info into that old thread. Here again is some of the info.

1) Pro Taper bars really help tame bar vibration to excellent levels.
2) CR500 tall Seat foam will fit with some mods, and it is necessary! Helps vibs too.
3) The Kehin PWK 39mm carb really works well, but requires some internal mods to the carb manifold. Also the manifold stuffer needs to be enlarged for the bigger carb.
4) The cylinder has insufficient blow down area, resulting in combustion gasses down the transfer ports at times. Raising the EX port 2-2.5mm in the center of each EX port helps, without robbing any low end. No other porting is necessary.
5) The power valves may not fully open, especially with porting.
6) The engine has too much squish clearance. Head surfacing of 0.030 is OK to get it about right.
7) The FMF pipe works well, especially with porting.
8) An as above modified eng will easily pull a 17/44 gearset if you can fit it.

Chris
 
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#19
Is "clutch drag" common on the 360?
I have a problem with my bike stalling on steep down hill runs.
I hold the clutch all the way in and blip the throttle as the rear wheel slides down the slope, but if I need to add a little front brake and can't juke the throttle, it stalls almost every time.
I bought new clutch plates not long ago, but when I disassembled the clutch, I found the old plates to be within spec. I couldn't find any problem with the linkage or anything else for that matter(no grooves in the basket). I decided to keep the new plates for backup until the current set wears out. I guess I could have done a better job of checking for warpage, but I doubt that there is any/much.
Do these bikes have an inherently short throw or something?
 
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#20
OldTimer said:
Is "clutch drag" common on the 360?
I have a problem with my bike stalling on steep down hill runs.
I hold the clutch all the way in and blip the throttle as the rear wheel slides down the slope, but if I need to add a little front brake and can't juke the throttle, it stalls almost every time.
I bought new clutch plates not long ago, but when I disassembled the clutch, I found the old plates to be within spec. I couldn't find any problem with the linkage or anything else for that matter(no grooves in the basket). I decided to keep the new plates for backup until the current set wears out. I guess I could have done a better job of checking for warpage, but I doubt that there is any/much.
Do these bikes have an inherently short throw or something?
The only time I've had any drag issues is when using anything but ATF for trans lube. I've tried motorex...maxima...bel-rey..ad infinum...ATF makes a world of difference. While I was in there replacing a broken shifter return spring I payed very close attention to the primary drive gear assembly and found absolutely no abnormal wear at all. I can start my machine in gear with no problem at all. Having a decompression head helps a lot though isn't a player in the clutch drag issue.

I also have two complete motors as spares and while checking for component wear I found negligible wear on the clutch plates though the baskets show some minor notching where the locating tabs for the plates make contact. Interestingly, the motor in the bike shows much less wear in that area which is precisely where clutch drag due to ANY reason would affect as a result of shock or impact loading when shifting from neutral into gear. Check yours to make certain you don't have any plates hanging up keeping your clutch from properly disengaging.

:ride:
 
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#21
BMEPdoc said:
The only time I've had any drag issues is when using anything but ATF...
The only time I haven't had trouble was using that Royal Purple Motorcyle Oil from NAPA, but at nine bucks a quart, I decided that rather than leaving the oil in longer, I'd stick with the cheap stuff.
BTW - If nothing else, ATF seemed to do worse than good ole 10w40.
 
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#22
I use ATF4000 which is a semi synth ATF, best clutch action you can get without getting a lever with a different leverage ratio.
Checked the manual and factory specs are air gap of 180mm but I set mine at 140mm
 
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#23
Just received a FMF Gnarly pipe, still waiting on silencer but holy moly this thing is huge compared to the stock pipe. Looks the part, will see if it wakes her up :boss:
 
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#24
Yeah mate, let me know if you can, as I have one on order as well as the Turbinecore muffler. The stocker looks a bit restricted to me so It will be interesting to see how she goes!

The gnarly looks awesome too.....
 
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#25
OldTimer said:
I agree! There was a lot of info in there that I had intended on referring to in the future. :bang:

Was anyone able to retrieve a copy of this huge 360 thread??
Would be very useful for us, who still rides the 360's :)