brookie921

Member
Mar 8, 2007
3
0
hey
im lookin at buying a WR 360 00 model, just wondering wat the in's n out's of this bike are. repairs? maintenance? problems? and ne thing that u can think of about this bike.
ive heard a lot of good comments about this bike by people and just wondering wat u guys think.... thanks heaps
 

BMEPdoc

Member
Sep 13, 2006
18
0
Fantastic machine...I also have an 05 300 exc pumpkin (KTM) which is a neat bike but really doesn't compare.. The Husky's a seriously powerful weapon where the KTM feels rather anemic in comparison. The nod goes to the 360 handling-wise as well. It just changes direction with more ease. The forks are the ONLY area where the KTM excells. A revalve of the husky helped substantially. I fitted an ohlins shock which, also results in a superior aft end to the katoom. As far as reliability is concerned, I've had to replace two shifter return springs in about a years time. Fortunately, it's a simple job, though I've inquired in here and on another board in reference to this and it appears my machine is unusual in this regard as no-one else has had this problem. As an aside...I've logged some 80 hours and over 2600 miles on my 360 - when pulling the top-end off to refresh, I noted virtually zero (well, minimal wear on the rings/piston/barrel). It's simply a GREAT bike!..Shame they're no longer in production.
 

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onebrow

Member
Sep 18, 2006
7
0
I did a search under WR360, still lot's of info posted. Should be able to answer all of your questions.
The WR360 is a great bike if you like your bike to have a lot of torque. If you like to zing the motor like a 125 or 250 the WR360 may not be for you it signs off early. That's not to say it's not powerful or fast, it's both, the engine just likes to work rather than rev. When it lays down just up shift. With 6 gears to play with you have lots of options!
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
fatwhitekid said:
go* F***ing d*mn it where did the wxc360 forum go.....it was like 16 pages or pre wr360 stuff
I agree! There was a lot of info in there that I had intended on referring to in the future. :bang:
 

Vince Stokes

Member
May 30, 2002
64
0
I have searched for it twice,only thing I can think of is someone took offence at the last couple of I want a girlfriend posts,its a bit harsh if thats all it took to disappear.It took on a life of its own,best tread on here for ages.
 

Agitator

Member
Dec 21, 2005
210
0
fatwhitekid said:
go* F***ing d*mn it where did the wxc360 forum go.....it was like 16 pages or pre wr360 stuff

I think that's why it is gone. It got to be too big a thread. If my posts ( :coocoo: ) were an issue, I'm happy to edit. However, I cannot find them, the thread, or anything related :whoa:

The mods probably thought it was too much of an off topic type thread. However, I agree with everyone who says that it was a valuable resource.
 

cujet

Member
Aug 13, 2000
826
5
Mods,

Can you provide that 360 thread for us to view in the archives?

Chris
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
Well, since my reference has disappeared...
Can any tell me the fork oil height for a '96 WXC360 and how to adjust it?
It's the only year in modern era to use the conventional fork design, so the 2000 manual is useless here.
I need to replace the seals and I have no idea how much oil I will need to put in the forks.
 

timmae 360

Member
Sep 25, 2006
8
0
OldTimer said:
Well, since my reference has disappeared...
Can any tell me the fork oil height for a '96 WXC360 and how to adjust it?
It's the only year in modern era to use the conventional fork design, so the 2000 manual is useless here.
I need to replace the seals and I have no idea how much oil I will need to put in the forks.

Manual is at the workshop but I think it was 120-140mm air gap or 670ml, but i'll check to be sure, this is wr360 dunno if its the same as WXC but WR was all we got over here :cool:
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
timmae 360 said:
Manual is at the workshop but I think it was 120-140mm air gap or 670ml, ...
Thanks, I got the rebuild done using a little guess work and those figures are about what I came up with.
The odd thing about these forks is that the right fork regulates rebound damping and the left fork regulates compression damping. :coocoo:
I guess it's normal for compression damping to occur only in the last couple inches of travel(?).
 

cujet

Member
Aug 13, 2000
826
5
I put some info into that old thread. Here again is some of the info.

1) Pro Taper bars really help tame bar vibration to excellent levels.
2) CR500 tall Seat foam will fit with some mods, and it is necessary! Helps vibs too.
3) The Kehin PWK 39mm carb really works well, but requires some internal mods to the carb manifold. Also the manifold stuffer needs to be enlarged for the bigger carb.
4) The cylinder has insufficient blow down area, resulting in combustion gasses down the transfer ports at times. Raising the EX port 2-2.5mm in the center of each EX port helps, without robbing any low end. No other porting is necessary.
5) The power valves may not fully open, especially with porting.
6) The engine has too much squish clearance. Head surfacing of 0.030 is OK to get it about right.
7) The FMF pipe works well, especially with porting.
8) An as above modified eng will easily pull a 17/44 gearset if you can fit it.

Chris
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
Is "clutch drag" common on the 360?
I have a problem with my bike stalling on steep down hill runs.
I hold the clutch all the way in and blip the throttle as the rear wheel slides down the slope, but if I need to add a little front brake and can't juke the throttle, it stalls almost every time.
I bought new clutch plates not long ago, but when I disassembled the clutch, I found the old plates to be within spec. I couldn't find any problem with the linkage or anything else for that matter(no grooves in the basket). I decided to keep the new plates for backup until the current set wears out. I guess I could have done a better job of checking for warpage, but I doubt that there is any/much.
Do these bikes have an inherently short throw or something?
 

BMEPdoc

Member
Sep 13, 2006
18
0
OldTimer said:
Is "clutch drag" common on the 360?
I have a problem with my bike stalling on steep down hill runs.
I hold the clutch all the way in and blip the throttle as the rear wheel slides down the slope, but if I need to add a little front brake and can't juke the throttle, it stalls almost every time.
I bought new clutch plates not long ago, but when I disassembled the clutch, I found the old plates to be within spec. I couldn't find any problem with the linkage or anything else for that matter(no grooves in the basket). I decided to keep the new plates for backup until the current set wears out. I guess I could have done a better job of checking for warpage, but I doubt that there is any/much.
Do these bikes have an inherently short throw or something?

The only time I've had any drag issues is when using anything but ATF for trans lube. I've tried motorex...maxima...bel-rey..ad infinum...ATF makes a world of difference. While I was in there replacing a broken shifter return spring I payed very close attention to the primary drive gear assembly and found absolutely no abnormal wear at all. I can start my machine in gear with no problem at all. Having a decompression head helps a lot though isn't a player in the clutch drag issue.

I also have two complete motors as spares and while checking for component wear I found negligible wear on the clutch plates though the baskets show some minor notching where the locating tabs for the plates make contact. Interestingly, the motor in the bike shows much less wear in that area which is precisely where clutch drag due to ANY reason would affect as a result of shock or impact loading when shifting from neutral into gear. Check yours to make certain you don't have any plates hanging up keeping your clutch from properly disengaging.

:ride:
 
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OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
BMEPdoc said:
The only time I've had any drag issues is when using anything but ATF...
The only time I haven't had trouble was using that Royal Purple Motorcyle Oil from NAPA, but at nine bucks a quart, I decided that rather than leaving the oil in longer, I'd stick with the cheap stuff.
BTW - If nothing else, ATF seemed to do worse than good ole 10w40.
 

timmae 360

Member
Sep 25, 2006
8
0
I use ATF4000 which is a semi synth ATF, best clutch action you can get without getting a lever with a different leverage ratio.
Checked the manual and factory specs are air gap of 180mm but I set mine at 140mm
 

timmae 360

Member
Sep 25, 2006
8
0
Just received a FMF Gnarly pipe, still waiting on silencer but holy moly this thing is huge compared to the stock pipe. Looks the part, will see if it wakes her up :boss:
 

kiwijohn

Member
Dec 22, 2004
113
0
Yeah mate, let me know if you can, as I have one on order as well as the Turbinecore muffler. The stocker looks a bit restricted to me so It will be interesting to see how she goes!

The gnarly looks awesome too.....
 

Skyldig

Member
Jul 7, 2009
3
0
OldTimer said:
I agree! There was a lot of info in there that I had intended on referring to in the future. :bang:


Was anyone able to retrieve a copy of this huge 360 thread??
Would be very useful for us, who still rides the 360's :)
 
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