Hydro clutch problems....

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May 16, 2001
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#1
Ok, when idling in neutral the bike idles great, but when i engage the clutch and put it in gear, the bike jumps a little bit and I have to give it gas to keep it idling. Its not really bad(enough to annoy you though), but I was wondering if this is a typical thing with 2 strokes or hydraulic clutches? Or is this not normal at all? I just bled the system(had a KTM mechanic do it and show me how) so I know it is done right, and I thought that would fix the problem but apparently not. Any ideas or is this just normal?

KaTMandoo
 

MIKE

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Nov 27, 1999
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#4
If you are using an aftermarket clutch lever, you may loose enough clutch master cylinder piston movement due to the lever geometry change that the clutch won't release all the way. If it's still the OEM lever try adjusting the red knob to get the lever the farthest away from the bar, this should make the clutch release all the way. The other possibility is that the clutch plates are warped and the only fix for that problem is clutch disc replacement.

MIKE 2000 KTM 300MXC eastern wash.
 
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#5
Ok, thx guys, I am switching back to the stock clutch lever ASAP. This EE one seems to not be so good.....

KaTMandoo
 

Bill Hibbs

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Aug 25, 1999
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#6
Sometimes when you run a thicker (gear oil) in your tranny it will cause it to drag the clutch a little. Just a thought.
 
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#7
hey bill, what do you suggest as far as thicker/thinner oil then? I definitely want to get this fixed. I just put the stock clutch lever back on there and adjusted it all the way out, but it is still doing it a little, its most annoying to have the clutch pulled in doing a very tight turn and it all the sudden dies, or going down a steep hill with the clutch in and it dies while going slow. ARGGH! Plus I am going riding tomorrow! If putting thinner oil in it will help then im definitely all for it, but Im not sure how low to go, plus what are the ill effects of using a thinner oil? I guess if the thinner oil doesn't work then Im gonna have to get my clutch basket and stuff checked out :( Roughly how much does parts on that cost becuase I have a bud who is a clutch working fool thankfully.

KaTMandoo
 

Bill Hibbs

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#9
10 or 20W 40 is what they recommend. I use a synthetic blend of this weight. Dumonde Tech is the brand. Honestly though, if it's dragging to the point that your stalling the engine it sounds like a different problem. Even with a thick tranny fluid you shouldn't stall the engine.
 

KDXfile

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Dec 6, 1999
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#10
Try ATF Type F and see if it helps. When I had a KTM it worked great in it.
I ran it all last year in my Husky in over 20 races with no clutch wear.
 
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May 27, 2001
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#11
your o-ring might be bad

I have a '99 ktm 200 MX/C and where the lever pushes in the mastercylinder there is a little o ring on the inside that might be leaky or broken so it would put air into the line.to tell if it is take the cover off the mineral oil box, then just make sure you have enough mineral oil in the resivor to do this. fill 'ur up! then pull the clutch lever over and over and see if any tiny airbubbles come up.Or you can bleed it and pull the lever real slow when the bleed nipple is loose. if the oil sputters out you have air in your line. if you do take the bike to your bike guy and tell him to rebuild the mastercylinder in your clutch. Rebuild kit for mine was $35
 
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#12
I have VERY nochy shifting on my '99 KTM 200 MX/C

i run MOBILE 1 10w 40 car oil(im cheap exept for premix). ive only experinced this prblem since my last oil change(every other weekend) and thoughts??? Im gonna start running spectro sx clutch saver. Good idea?