I'm bout to throw in da towel !!!

Dirtbikes are high maintainence... kinda like a wife/girlfriend.
When I first got into it (many years ago) the parts guy at the local bike shop said some brutal but true words: "You play, you pay." He knew what he was talking about...

When you had the clutch basket off, or the cover for that matter, whats the chance the shift shaft pawl is now out of sequence with the shift drum star? It does happen, do not ask! It would explain the bizarre shifting. You should not need to pull the basket, but the cover has to come off. You are learning.

When you pull apart an engine like this, make sure that you have plenty of room to lay out the parts. A 6 foot table is best.. Then as you take things apart, you can segregate the old parts from the new ones. Plus you have a nice clean area to work.

I tend to never throw away old parts until the new ones are in the bike. It just helps my own mental health to know that the new one is working..

Also, take pictures along the way so that you can see how things go back together.


So.. about the shifter. If you follow the shaft thru the engine (mentally, you don't have to take it apart), you will see that it has a mechanism on the clutch side of the engine with a spring on it. so that when you push the lever, it returns.

At the end opposite the shaft, of that mechanism there is a pawl that moves the shift drum. This is what turns inside the trans that moves the shift forks. (http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...1-2003-gear-change-mechanism/o/m3816sch292206)

(http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...gear-change-drum-shift-forks/o/m3816sch293002)


Make sure that the shifter is moving the shift drum.. You will see it when you have the clutch cover off. and try to move the lever... You may have to move the rear wheel at the same time to get the gearbox to move..


Also look at the parts fiche on bikebandit for the clutch, that will show you the blow up of the clutch, to make sure you have the washers in the right spot.

There is a thick washer that goes between the basket and the bearing in the case.. If you don't have that one in place, you could have a binding between parts in the clutch area. It'd probably make a considerable amount of noise too.

I also have to ask why you put the old head gasket back in? That head gasket is not reusable. Once you torque the head, that head gasket is done. If you take the head back off, you need to replace it. From what I can see, it only goes on one way. Is it possible that you put the new one on upside down?

If you aren't sure which way to install a new head gasket on that bike, ask a mechanic at your local Kawi shop to show you.. Although most of them come with a mark to show you which side goes up.

That could account for your white smoke.

If I was you, I'd pull the clutch back apart, and make 100% certain that all of the parts are installed and in the right order.

At the least, take some pictures and post them here and we should be able to help you identify the proper order.

There have been many times I've wanted to give it all up over something like this, but remember it's just a simple machine, if it's not working as expected, there's a reason. And there is someone on here that should be able to help you identify that problem.

Don't let it beat you.

It may be behind the basket. In the end of the shift drum is a ratchet device(13078). The trans needs to be in neutral, you will need to disengage the shifter shaft(13161), from the ratchet. With the trans in neutral, the ratchet centered and facing the shaft, there should be 2 marks that line up, on most, otherwise it just needs to be in centered and in sequence. Then push the shift shaft into place. Then the trans is set properly. That pawl on the end of the shaft moves over an eight of an inch, and it can slip out of sequence. It will shift weird.

I wouldn't put two head gaskets on. Yes it will lower compression. Also cause leaks.

I think this will be something you look back on and say "man that was an easy but frustrating fix!"

As far as that head gasket... I had a similar situation on my old CR. make sure you pull all the studs and clean the thread on the stud and in the head. it can really f UP your torque specs. Also as mentioned make sure the gasket is on right.

Before you start torquing the head down. Tighten it slightly by hand and then give it a good rap with a rubber mallet or the wooden end of a hammer to make is seat fully. Then torque to the specs.

I didn't have mine fully seated and it leaked coolant!

my advice is: pull the cylinder and the head, lap them in some fine emery cloth (400-800) in a flat surface, like a glass,to be sure that the surfaces are flat!!! most likely , they aren´t after so much play with... :nod:
and no 2 gaskets...

about the neutral, will you be able to put it with the engine off? or just with the engine running?
if it´s with the engine on and the bike still is the cluch that drags for some reason. off and it´s not the clutch.

could you post some pictures of the head and cylinder? :cool:

When I read "white smoke", my first thought was a blown main seal on the wet (clutch) side. This would also explain the backfires. Is your spark plug oily, with black carbon build up?

If it is the crank seal, you'll need to split the crankcases to replace it :(.

You should only ever see blue smoke from a 2 stroke, as it's only meant to burn 2-stroke oil. White smoke means a problem (unless the gas you borrowed was mixed with gearbox oil).

The stuck gears and rattle don't sound too good, It could be that the crank bearing is gone and you're hearing bits of it rattle around inside, in which case I wouldn't advise trying to start it.

I honestly don't think a new gasket will make any difference (it certainly won't fix the neutral issue). I'd strip that engine down and find the root of the problem before any more damage is done.

I'd suggest just replacing the head studs.. They're not too expensive, and a good idea.


When you try to shift into neutral, does the shift lever move at all?

mad norris said:

The stuck gears and rattle don't sound too good, It could be that the crank bearing is gone and you're hearing bits of it rattle around inside, in which case I wouldn't advise trying to start it.

Click to expand...

Please explain how you came to this conclusion? I don't get it at all.

Make sure you also order the dowels that go around the studs too.. They're likely all buggered up with rust.

IndyMX said:

Please explain how you came to this conclusion? I don't get it at all.

Click to expand...

If rhe right crank bearing goes, then small pieces of shell can get caught in the gearshift pawl, clutch basket, between the crank and clutch gears, etc.

Mad Norris said:

If rhe right crank bearing goes, then small pieces of shell can get caught in the gearshift pawl, clutch basket, between the crank and clutch gears, etc.

Click to expand...

Ok.. highly unlikely, but I guess it's possible.

If the 2 detentes on the shift drum have issues, you will never catch neutral. Or the sequence between the star and shift shaft. White smoke is almost always anti freeze/water, not oil. Do not forget new nuts for the new studs. And, what Helio stated, check the head and top of the cylinder for being flat. You can check the main bearings by trying to move the crank ends up and down.

good news... :cool:
now, ride it!