I have a KDX 200 2001 the carb is rejetted to a 45 pilot, 155 main with the clip second from the top, I use a Br7 range plug and a 12t front sprocket. The bike runs great with lots of power I only need to occasionally adjust the air screw for good throttle responds based on temp, humitity etc. I gave the bike to my son and I bought a KDX 200 2002 broke it in, now has about 80 miles on it rejetted the carb to a 45 pilot, 155 main with the clip second from the top installed a 12 t front sprocket installed a Br 7 plug, installed a FMF K35 pipe, kept the stock silencer and installed boyesen power reeds, snorkel is off and fine tuned the pilot. The bike has very little pulling power in 6th gear and 5th is not that great. Moved the Clip to the middle position and power delivery only slightly improved in high gears, but still not good. The stock 2001 KDX with 600 miles is snappier and has a great power band in all gears. So I was thinking of pulling the power reeds out and tune just to the pipe first, then install the power reeds and tune to the pipe and reeds. Any suggestions, I was really supprised that after spending hundreds of dollars the stock bike runs better. What did I miss. Both bikes are run with 93 octane gas and yamalube at 40:1 mix. Riding is at 1000 ft elevation with about 50% humitity and 60 deg temp.
just doesn't run the way it should
- Thread starter dirtdevil
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OLD-N-SLOW
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- Nov 21, 2000
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To get best response from the 200 you need to change the needle.
Go with a cel needle in the three postion.
Try this jetting: 38/152 cel-3 #5 slide(stock). This may still be a little rich but you can use your judgement from there. The air screw will have little effect on power. If it was mine ,I would also try to find a k-30 pipe. But pipe selection is very subjective to each person.
In my opinnion the jetting is the BEST mod you can make no matter what money you spend! Yes, i think it is better than the pipe. When the dust clears though, all the mods jetting,reeds,pipe, air box lid, all work together
for a very good power increase.
Steve
Go with a cel needle in the three postion.
Try this jetting: 38/152 cel-3 #5 slide(stock). This may still be a little rich but you can use your judgement from there. The air screw will have little effect on power. If it was mine ,I would also try to find a k-30 pipe. But pipe selection is very subjective to each person.
In my opinnion the jetting is the BEST mod you can make no matter what money you spend! Yes, i think it is better than the pipe. When the dust clears though, all the mods jetting,reeds,pipe, air box lid, all work together
for a very good power increase.
Steve
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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Jetting?
The two bikes are jetted the same but piped differently..have different reeds, different induction setups...is that the gist of it?
I see nothing that indicates you have those jets in the bikes based on plug reads..especially since you have two largely different bikes running the same set.
My bike takes a considerably different jetset when I change pipes. I know that from testing the setups. Let alone reed and airbox changes.
Re: 7 vs: 8
Keep the 7. The hotter plug will raise the operating temp of the bike overall, and the 7 is considered closer to the 'correct' temp than the 8 (by those in-the-know). Putting an 8 in it stock was a 'safe' choice...just like the stock jetting. Safe, but boring.
80 miles isn't much. Things may improve some with a few more miles. Heck..80 miles is only one good day's ride!
Do some plug checks (WOT plug chop), adjust AS to best throttle response.
Bet'cha $5 you aren't going to end up with the same jets in both bikes.
Hey..here's an idea. If you're judging performance based on how your kid waxes you on the OLD bike...and the NEW tweaked bike (you :) ) can't keep up...well, you see where this is headed.... :D
The two bikes are jetted the same but piped differently..have different reeds, different induction setups...is that the gist of it?
I see nothing that indicates you have those jets in the bikes based on plug reads..especially since you have two largely different bikes running the same set.
My bike takes a considerably different jetset when I change pipes. I know that from testing the setups. Let alone reed and airbox changes.
Re: 7 vs: 8
Keep the 7. The hotter plug will raise the operating temp of the bike overall, and the 7 is considered closer to the 'correct' temp than the 8 (by those in-the-know). Putting an 8 in it stock was a 'safe' choice...just like the stock jetting. Safe, but boring.
80 miles isn't much. Things may improve some with a few more miles. Heck..80 miles is only one good day's ride!
Do some plug checks (WOT plug chop), adjust AS to best throttle response.
Bet'cha $5 you aren't going to end up with the same jets in both bikes.
Hey..here's an idea. If you're judging performance based on how your kid waxes you on the OLD bike...and the NEW tweaked bike (you :) ) can't keep up...well, you see where this is headed.... :D
- Thread starter
- #6
Yes that's the gist of it, two bikes different induction and exhaust set ups. I did not do a plug Chop on the 2002 with the pipe, the bike had such a lack of power in 6th and also 5th that I just stopped and am taking a step back before I proceed. Last night I pulled the power reedout just so i could deal with one thing at a time (the Pipe). I like the 7 plug and would not go back to the 8 unless I was desert racing. The FMF and boyesen spec indicate that you might have to change jets. Correct me if i am wrong but the pipe should have an indication of leaning out the bike? I was going to run the bike with just the pipe since i installed the stock reeds with the 42 pilot 155 main, clip in the middle do a plug chop and take it from there. If the chop indicated a lean condition then i would put backin the stock 160 main? Second choice since I don't mind playing with the bike. pull the FMF since it's a relitively simple job, put the stock exhaust on and see if the bikes performance reacts similar to my sons bike with the 42 pilot 155 main and clip in the middle,then reinstall the FMF pipe and work with that? What do you think? Oh bythe way, I still whip my son, at least for now.
canyncarvr
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This just in...
..sorry, my one brain cell was otherwise occupied.
How about the intake boot?
I mention that only cuz I messed it up once. I didn't pay attention first time I changed reeds (to boyesen power, actually), and put the boot on UPSIDE DOWN (I mean, in relation to the cage. It's not that my carb was pointing the other direction!!).
It fits fine. But if you look INTO the reed cage, you'll see that the white phenolic of the cage lines up in only ONE position of the boot.
Makes your bike run fer crap! There's a bit of obstructin' goin' on!!
C'mon now!! I'd love to hear someone else do something bonehead like that!! :o
re:Correct me if i am wrong but the pipe should have an indication of leaning out the bike?
Given I am jetted for (and using) my rev pipe (-30).
Do nothing but change to the torque (-35), and I'll foul a plug within an hour.
I know that doesn't apply to you. Point is to show the difference a pipe can make.
Besides, you had a positive effect when you RAISED the needle, right?
Sounds like you need MOH gas to me.
If it's running so lean as to be doggy WOT in 5&6, I wouldn't be running it that way for a REAL long time before I looked at the plug. You don't want to see any grey color or sparkly lil bits!
Yeah. If WOFT plug chop shows lean, you'd go back up in size. 160 would be two steps, so would be for a sizeable change.
Of course, needle clip isn't going to effect WOT..unless your needle is WAY too long (not the case..but a possiblilty). What you felt as a 'change' when you raised the needle should have been on the way TO WOT..NOT while you were THERE.
Just ribbin' about the waxing thing. I've seen my riding buddy's kid go through three bikes..now rides a CR80R. The last couple years has shown incredible change! While not consistent, there ARE times he SCREAMS on that thing.
Something you can look forward to! :) ..the waxing thing.....;)
..sorry, my one brain cell was otherwise occupied.
How about the intake boot?
I mention that only cuz I messed it up once. I didn't pay attention first time I changed reeds (to boyesen power, actually), and put the boot on UPSIDE DOWN (I mean, in relation to the cage. It's not that my carb was pointing the other direction!!).
It fits fine. But if you look INTO the reed cage, you'll see that the white phenolic of the cage lines up in only ONE position of the boot.
Makes your bike run fer crap! There's a bit of obstructin' goin' on!!
C'mon now!! I'd love to hear someone else do something bonehead like that!! :o
re:Correct me if i am wrong but the pipe should have an indication of leaning out the bike?
Given I am jetted for (and using) my rev pipe (-30).
Do nothing but change to the torque (-35), and I'll foul a plug within an hour.
I know that doesn't apply to you. Point is to show the difference a pipe can make.
Besides, you had a positive effect when you RAISED the needle, right?
Sounds like you need MOH gas to me.
If it's running so lean as to be doggy WOT in 5&6, I wouldn't be running it that way for a REAL long time before I looked at the plug. You don't want to see any grey color or sparkly lil bits!
Yeah. If WOFT plug chop shows lean, you'd go back up in size. 160 would be two steps, so would be for a sizeable change.
Of course, needle clip isn't going to effect WOT..unless your needle is WAY too long (not the case..but a possiblilty). What you felt as a 'change' when you raised the needle should have been on the way TO WOT..NOT while you were THERE.
Just ribbin' about the waxing thing. I've seen my riding buddy's kid go through three bikes..now rides a CR80R. The last couple years has shown incredible change! While not consistent, there ARE times he SCREAMS on that thing.
Something you can look forward to! :) ..the waxing thing.....;)
Last edited:
canyncarvr
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The JustKDX site..
..is what dd is referring to (I think).
Bookmark this:
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net
'Plug chop' is a method used to check the main jet circuit of your carb. With good fuel (not what's been sitting in the tank since last year), a decent plug (not one with 1000 miles of goo on it), ride in a high gear (like 5 or 6) full throttle, under load (slight uphill works good). After as long as you can hold it there (unless you are worried about seizure due to too lean..say at least 30 seconds, preferably 60 seconds)you:
Holding the throttle open:
Hit the kill switch, pull in the clutch (at the same time), brake or coast to a stop, check the plug.
Do NOT...let off the throttle or slow down under compression.
That'll tell you what the main is doing. That is the jet you 'select' FIRST. The main, although mostly used at upper throttle openings, will effect EVERY circuit..especially if it's way out of whack.
Next, set your bike to high idle using the AS (given that your AS is 1/2 to 2 turns out. If less that 1/2, you likely need a larger pilot. If more than 2, you likely need a smaller pilot). Then fine tune the AS by checking for throttle response. A quick flick of the wrist from idle to 1/4-3/8 throttle in second gear from a slow roll should give you IMMEDIATE response. Likely turn the AS in a bit to get to that point.
Try bracketing the needle for best effect in the mid-throttle range. Try maybe #4 (from the top)...see how it compares to #2..select what's best.
The needle is where 90% of the attitude of your bike is going to come from. Call Sudco (1-800-998-3529) and pick yourself up a BEL, CEK and CEL needles. They're $5 each. The CEL with the #5 (stock) throttle valve (slide) will give you an MX type hard hitting ride. The BEL with be much smoother. The CEK is what you can use when you get your carb back from RB designs :) (if ron doesn't put one in there to start with).
Sorry...got off-topic. Heck...I'm off the entire thread :ugg:
dd:
How about that intake boot/reed block setup?
..is what dd is referring to (I think).
Bookmark this:
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net
'Plug chop' is a method used to check the main jet circuit of your carb. With good fuel (not what's been sitting in the tank since last year), a decent plug (not one with 1000 miles of goo on it), ride in a high gear (like 5 or 6) full throttle, under load (slight uphill works good). After as long as you can hold it there (unless you are worried about seizure due to too lean..say at least 30 seconds, preferably 60 seconds)you:
Holding the throttle open:
Hit the kill switch, pull in the clutch (at the same time), brake or coast to a stop, check the plug.
Do NOT...let off the throttle or slow down under compression.
That'll tell you what the main is doing. That is the jet you 'select' FIRST. The main, although mostly used at upper throttle openings, will effect EVERY circuit..especially if it's way out of whack.
Next, set your bike to high idle using the AS (given that your AS is 1/2 to 2 turns out. If less that 1/2, you likely need a larger pilot. If more than 2, you likely need a smaller pilot). Then fine tune the AS by checking for throttle response. A quick flick of the wrist from idle to 1/4-3/8 throttle in second gear from a slow roll should give you IMMEDIATE response. Likely turn the AS in a bit to get to that point.
Try bracketing the needle for best effect in the mid-throttle range. Try maybe #4 (from the top)...see how it compares to #2..select what's best.
The needle is where 90% of the attitude of your bike is going to come from. Call Sudco (1-800-998-3529) and pick yourself up a BEL, CEK and CEL needles. They're $5 each. The CEL with the #5 (stock) throttle valve (slide) will give you an MX type hard hitting ride. The BEL with be much smoother. The CEK is what you can use when you get your carb back from RB designs :) (if ron doesn't put one in there to start with).
Sorry...got off-topic. Heck...I'm off the entire thread :ugg:
dd:
How about that intake boot/reed block setup?
Dirt devel,
I too had the same problem with a 2001, 200 , Same mods except removed filter lid. Only difference I also had very little bottom end power, I ended up using a CEL needle 3rd clip , 152 main and 45 pilot,(BR8ES) I tryed 40 & 42 pilots both seemed lean, I can only turn the air screw out about 1/2 turn, or I get a off idle bogg.. Seems to run alot better, CEL needle helped!! I think the problem is the pipe, This is my first FMF Gnarly pipe and so far not very impressed , I think I would use a Pro-Circuit next time, Fit and finish is also much better..
I too had the same problem with a 2001, 200 , Same mods except removed filter lid. Only difference I also had very little bottom end power, I ended up using a CEL needle 3rd clip , 152 main and 45 pilot,(BR8ES) I tryed 40 & 42 pilots both seemed lean, I can only turn the air screw out about 1/2 turn, or I get a off idle bogg.. Seems to run alot better, CEL needle helped!! I think the problem is the pipe, This is my first FMF Gnarly pipe and so far not very impressed , I think I would use a Pro-Circuit next time, Fit and finish is also much better..
curious?
IF the stock main jet on a 200 is 160 then why are most of you jetting down to a 155 main while adding pipes,removing box lids and such.PLease help me understand cause i don't get it.I'm running 45 pilot with a 170 main, needle in 3rd pos.Mods are FMF torq pipe,FMF silenser and air box snorkel cut out,and the bike rips.Plug color is a paper sack brown.
IF the stock main jet on a 200 is 160 then why are most of you jetting down to a 155 main while adding pipes,removing box lids and such.PLease help me understand cause i don't get it.I'm running 45 pilot with a 170 main, needle in 3rd pos.Mods are FMF torq pipe,FMF silenser and air box snorkel cut out,and the bike rips.Plug color is a paper sack brown.
Re: curious?
If the plug color is correct, and you are doing the plug check properly, then your bike should be fine.
Normally when you add a pipe, aftermarket airfilter, remove the lid and such, YES you Will have to go to a larger main jet, and may even have to raise the needle a notch.
Whenever you let more air in or out, you will have to richen up the circuit to make up for it. Sounds like you are fine.
Originally posted by girlsbike
IF the stock main jet on a 200 is 160 then why are most of you jetting down to a 155 main while adding pipes,removing box lids and such.PLease help me understand cause i don't get it.I'm running 45 pilot with a 170 main, needle in 3rd pos.Mods are FMF torq pipe,FMF silenser and air box snorkel cut out,and the bike rips.Plug color is a paper sack brown.
If the plug color is correct, and you are doing the plug check properly, then your bike should be fine.
Normally when you add a pipe, aftermarket airfilter, remove the lid and such, YES you Will have to go to a larger main jet, and may even have to raise the needle a notch.
Whenever you let more air in or out, you will have to richen up the circuit to make up for it. Sounds like you are fine.
- Thread starter
- #16
Well, we have 4 inches of snow on the ground with 4-8 inches coming today so I think it will be a couple of week before I get to test the bike again. my theory with the jets that I installed was as follows: If a stock bike is rich to begin with and my sons 2001 kdx200 rips with a 42 pilot and a 155 main then installing a pipe would tend to lean the machine, but boyesen power reeds according to the manufactures instructions tend to make the bike run richer, I should end up just right. we'll so much for theory. As soon as the snow melts i'm going to leave the 42pilot and the 155 main and go do a plug chop and adjust according to the plug, remember I pulled the power reeds out so that I could deal with one modification at a time. My gut tells me that the main is going to have to be a 158 or the stock 160. Could the reed cage been installed upside down, well, I guess anything is possible but I did not look closely when I took out the power reeds. I did make sure that the tab was on the left when installing the stock reeds( per the service manual). I've done many bonehead things in my life, most of them always being a learning experiance for me,maybe they were in upside down? I'll keep you posted on my progress once that dam bla bla snow melts.
OK now I'm really confused, when I read canadian daves tech tips I thought I understood that when you add a fmf pipe or boyeson reed valve etc,then you lean the mix, ie go a jet smaller? but you guys are saying that you need to richen the mix, ie go a jet larger? so which is it? Or am I just reading the tech tips wrong?
- Thread starter
- #18
Hookie, My approach was following canadian dave's tech tips to get me started. I'm at stage one of the hop up guide, I think. That's why I leaned the bike out. The bikes are way too rich stock, and if you lean the stock bike out a little they really become snappier. I think in my case it's just getting the right combination of jets, thats why I pulled the Boyeson reeds out. I want to be able to deal with one thing at a time. Change the pipe and get it jetted correctly. Then add the reeds and get it jetted correctly. I believe the tech tips are just that tips and each bike needs to be treated on a bike to bike case, depending on riding temps humitiy altitude and rider ability. I was hoping that if I threw all the mods on together I would get lucky with the jets. I guess it was not my lucky day. Now I have to figure out the best combo.
OLD-N-SLOW
Member
- Nov 21, 2000
- 168
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Allright ,I cant stand it anymore. I know this is going to sound like I,m a giant
jerk, and after this I wont say anything more, but it seems like most of you are missing the boat on this jetting thing.
PLEASE, all of you, do a search in the technical post area, and search on the word"emergency" and read the emergency RB designs jetting info needed
post. Yes its big but please read it all. No it dosnt just pertain to the RB designs carb mod carbs.
If your still using the stock needle in your carb...well its not the right one.
If your using a 170 main..just thinking of the power your missing makes me cringe.
If you rely on the air srew to fix your throttle response problems and are suprised that it dosnt fix it , well your just lazy.
Good, smart, motorcyle people conrtibuted to theRB designs jetting post.
Not that anyone cares after my ranting but my 01 200 is jetted as follows
35 pilot 150 main cel-#4 position with the #5 slide and the air screw around 1 1/2 out. The power comes on stong and stays stong to way past where the
stock kdx runs out of steam. It will also chug up steep hills, lugging in first with my big butt on it,then accelerate clean with no bog, hesitation or clutch.
I simply want everyones kdx to run as good. Jetting is the key!!
Read the POST!!!
Sorry, i will shut-up now.
Steve
jerk, and after this I wont say anything more, but it seems like most of you are missing the boat on this jetting thing.
PLEASE, all of you, do a search in the technical post area, and search on the word"emergency" and read the emergency RB designs jetting info needed
post. Yes its big but please read it all. No it dosnt just pertain to the RB designs carb mod carbs.
If your still using the stock needle in your carb...well its not the right one.
If your using a 170 main..just thinking of the power your missing makes me cringe.
If you rely on the air srew to fix your throttle response problems and are suprised that it dosnt fix it , well your just lazy.
Good, smart, motorcyle people conrtibuted to theRB designs jetting post.
Not that anyone cares after my ranting but my 01 200 is jetted as follows
35 pilot 150 main cel-#4 position with the #5 slide and the air screw around 1 1/2 out. The power comes on stong and stays stong to way past where the
stock kdx runs out of steam. It will also chug up steep hills, lugging in first with my big butt on it,then accelerate clean with no bog, hesitation or clutch.
I simply want everyones kdx to run as good. Jetting is the key!!
Read the POST!!!
Sorry, i will shut-up now.
Steve
OLD-N-SLOW
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- Nov 21, 2000
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agitt73,
I know mine would be, I would have to run a br2es plug.
I know mine would be, I would have to run a br2es plug.
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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stuff...
dd: You know what you're doing. You'll get the two bike differences figured out I'm sure.
jetting in general: Keep in mind that the idea of requiring smaller jets ('leaning' the mixture) with the addition of pipe, airbox mods and such is WRONG.
The stock jetting is SO off, that when you improve flow of the system (like airbox restriction removal through snorkel removal, lid drilling or complete lid removal), you end up (for example) with a smaller jet than stock... but richer than it would have been in the first place had it been correct.
The amount of fuel mixed by a carb is not a matter of the AMOUNT of air going thru the carb. Instead, it's a matter of pressure differential. That's what venturis do. The decreased air pressure in the carb causes atmospheric pressure (as 'felt' by the fluid in the fuel bowl) to PUSH fuel into the airstream.
The bottom line is going to be what's correct for your situation. Taking gilsbike for example, a 170 may be correct depending on the type of riding and elevation. DOES sound a bit iffy to me (I wonder how a 170 selection was arrived at), but I know that I wish I would have HAD a 170 last time I was at the dunes (sea level). 160 is the biggest I had...and it was a bit TOO close to suit me.
That's why reduction in airbox restriction generally calls for a RICHER jet....pressure differential is reduced; LESS fuel is 'pushed' into the airstream, a LARGER jet corrects that problem.
o&s: Isn't a sharp jetted bike a delight??!! Yesterday (played hookie..call it a vernal celebration!) my '00 200 (38/152/BEL-2/#6TV) was perfect!
To you folks that haven't done it...get your jetting sorted out. Yeah, it takes time and is a bit of a hassle changing this'n-that time after time. But you'll get to the point that you'll KNOW what works and when to change it..and your bike will be running better than you ever thought possible!
AND...the RB post is an excellent read. JD lends terrific insight into L1, taperº, the magic number (how many of you even know what the 'magic number' is and why it's so important in needle selection?). I'll bet'cha there were about zero kdx'ers using a Cxx needle six months ago.
p.s. If I'm surprised at how small a change to my AS (1/16 turn) DOES fix my problem, does that make me NOT lazy? :)
dd: You know what you're doing. You'll get the two bike differences figured out I'm sure.
jetting in general: Keep in mind that the idea of requiring smaller jets ('leaning' the mixture) with the addition of pipe, airbox mods and such is WRONG.
The stock jetting is SO off, that when you improve flow of the system (like airbox restriction removal through snorkel removal, lid drilling or complete lid removal), you end up (for example) with a smaller jet than stock... but richer than it would have been in the first place had it been correct.
The amount of fuel mixed by a carb is not a matter of the AMOUNT of air going thru the carb. Instead, it's a matter of pressure differential. That's what venturis do. The decreased air pressure in the carb causes atmospheric pressure (as 'felt' by the fluid in the fuel bowl) to PUSH fuel into the airstream.
The bottom line is going to be what's correct for your situation. Taking gilsbike for example, a 170 may be correct depending on the type of riding and elevation. DOES sound a bit iffy to me (I wonder how a 170 selection was arrived at), but I know that I wish I would have HAD a 170 last time I was at the dunes (sea level). 160 is the biggest I had...and it was a bit TOO close to suit me.
That's why reduction in airbox restriction generally calls for a RICHER jet....pressure differential is reduced; LESS fuel is 'pushed' into the airstream, a LARGER jet corrects that problem.
o&s: Isn't a sharp jetted bike a delight??!! Yesterday (played hookie..call it a vernal celebration!) my '00 200 (38/152/BEL-2/#6TV) was perfect!
To you folks that haven't done it...get your jetting sorted out. Yeah, it takes time and is a bit of a hassle changing this'n-that time after time. But you'll get to the point that you'll KNOW what works and when to change it..and your bike will be running better than you ever thought possible!
AND...the RB post is an excellent read. JD lends terrific insight into L1, taperº, the magic number (how many of you even know what the 'magic number' is and why it's so important in needle selection?). I'll bet'cha there were about zero kdx'ers using a Cxx needle six months ago.
p.s. If I'm surprised at how small a change to my AS (1/16 turn) DOES fix my problem, does that make me NOT lazy? :)
OLD-N-SLOW
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- Nov 21, 2000
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CC,
yes...yes it does:)
But seriously, I think too many people try to make the air screw the carb problem fix-all because its easy. Granted, tuning a carb isnt easy, but it's not hard either and the reward is great.
By the way I almost never mess the the air screw. Set it once and forgot about it.
Steve
yes...yes it does:)
But seriously, I think too many people try to make the air screw the carb problem fix-all because its easy. Granted, tuning a carb isnt easy, but it's not hard either and the reward is great.
By the way I almost never mess the the air screw. Set it once and forgot about it.
Steve
Yamalube
I'm running yamalube at 32:1 ,should i be running 100:1 is that the secret?
Any way at a small motorcross track a couple weeks back i was complemented on how much power my bike had by a some 125 and 250 riders.So i thought my jetting seemed good.My only problem was a slight off idle lag or response.
BTW my jetting ideas come from a shop owner and racer for some 30 years and said his experience with kdx's was that they were rich from the factory on the pilot,thats why i kept the stock pilot in.Now he didn't tell me that BY GOD THATS WHAT IT NEEDS but to him he would try the 170 first and go from there.
Consequently the first owner of the bike was running a 35 pilot ,needle in the 2nd clip pos and a 155 main,and the bike didn't have near the response or power as it does now.
I'm in the flats of arkansas so i'm thinking i'm pretty much at sea level so maybe i do need the larger jets atleast i shouldn't have to worry about a piston seizure at speed and until i see any different from the plug i'm gonna stick with what is working now.
I probably will go buy a 165 and 168 main just to try them and see if the bike runs better But drop back down to the 155 no way.The reason i was at the shop in the first place was to get a new piston and get the cyl. honed b/c the piston and cylinder had signs of cold and hot seizures and i swear it tried to seize on me my first time out after buying the bike.
I'm no expert on the subject but i trust the shop owner and his willingness to help.
scott:aj:
I'm running yamalube at 32:1 ,should i be running 100:1 is that the secret?
Any way at a small motorcross track a couple weeks back i was complemented on how much power my bike had by a some 125 and 250 riders.So i thought my jetting seemed good.My only problem was a slight off idle lag or response.
BTW my jetting ideas come from a shop owner and racer for some 30 years and said his experience with kdx's was that they were rich from the factory on the pilot,thats why i kept the stock pilot in.Now he didn't tell me that BY GOD THATS WHAT IT NEEDS but to him he would try the 170 first and go from there.
Consequently the first owner of the bike was running a 35 pilot ,needle in the 2nd clip pos and a 155 main,and the bike didn't have near the response or power as it does now.
I'm in the flats of arkansas so i'm thinking i'm pretty much at sea level so maybe i do need the larger jets atleast i shouldn't have to worry about a piston seizure at speed and until i see any different from the plug i'm gonna stick with what is working now.
I probably will go buy a 165 and 168 main just to try them and see if the bike runs better But drop back down to the 155 no way.The reason i was at the shop in the first place was to get a new piston and get the cyl. honed b/c the piston and cylinder had signs of cold and hot seizures and i swear it tried to seize on me my first time out after buying the bike.
I'm no expert on the subject but i trust the shop owner and his willingness to help.
scott:aj:
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