Just switched from kx250 to kdx200

farcry2

Member
Jun 23, 2003
35
0
I just got back into woods riding after alomst 10 years away from it (mountain biking instead). My last bike was an 89 YZ 250 done up for the woods and hare scrambles, flywheel weight, suspension re-valving, etc, great all around bike.
This year I purchased a used 99 kx 250 partially setup for the woods (skid plate, bark busters). After riding our eastern trails in one of the wettest springs ever, I added a flywheel weight. The bike was still too powerful and suspension over damped for tight woods. The guys I'm riding with are all on kdx's and moto-x 125's, and at the end of the ride I'm wiped out and they are still having fun. Watching them do tight turns and nasty obstacles I questioned my riding ability. Then it came to me, a 250 mx bike is too much for tight eastern woods, I need a kdx too.
I found a mint 2000 kdx 200, not even broken in. It sat for so long it had sludge in the bowl and clogged pilot circuit. My first ride I was like a new rider, I can't believe how easy these kdx's are to ride. The power is respectable, but a bit mellow. Besides removing the air box snorkel, what are the top 5 best mods you can make to this bike? Thanks and glad to be back riding dirt bikes again.
 

23jayhawk

Sponsoring Member
Apr 30, 2002
675
0
Originally posted by farcry2
Besides removing the air box snorkel, what are the top 5 best mods you can make to this bike?

  1. heavier fork springs
  2. fresh set of Pirelli's
  3. aftermarket pipe
  4. steering damper
  5. revalve forks

JMHO; assumes basic maintenance & jetting is kept up, and you've already added some basic woods items - barkbusters, skidplate, FRP chain guide.
 

farcry2

Member
Jun 23, 2003
35
0
I still have the kx to sell, but once it's gone I will start procuring hop up parts with the proceeds. I think it will be good to get time in on the stock setup (airbox cover removed) and do the hop ups one stage at a time.
 

OLD-N-SLOW

Member
Nov 21, 2000
168
0
Well how about these,
1 jetting
2 pipe
3 jetting
4 fork springs
5 jetting

o and dont forget the proper jetting.

Yes, its that good, it gets three out of five.
Steve
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
re: what are the top 5 best mods you can make

Numbers 1,3 & 5 O&S listed above fit into spots 1,2 & 3 in your top five list.

He's right.


Well, and don't forget proper jetting.
 

peterryan01

Member
May 6, 2003
28
0
1. Jetting (yes, I know has been said)
2. Boyesen Reeds (cheap power gain)
3. FMF Gnarly Woods Pipe (must!)
4. Moose Torque Spacer Kit
5. FMF Q silencer/spark arrestor (drops weight)

That's all I can think of. Numbers 1-3 have made a huge difference for me.
 

farcry2

Member
Jun 23, 2003
35
0
For jetting: So far dropped one pilot jet size and coordinated it with the air screw adjustment. The air screw is turned out about 1&1/2 turns to the point where the engine rpm stops climbing with throttle off. I also removed the air box cover. Has anyone leaned the needle a position? What about the main jet?
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
Try a search on the subject and you'll find hundreds of references to jetting issues.

Start with CDave's site (http://justkdx.dirtrider.net..but matt already said that and you have it bookmarked, no?). He has jetting recommendations for various stages of basic modification.

Still, keep in mind that no-one can TELL you how to jet. You have to do the work. There are way too many differences in conditions and riders that have to be taken into account.

Setting the AS to hi-idle is a starting point, but likely not where it will stay. You'll have a lean-bog when you snap the throttle, likely. The AS is set to the spot the throttle response is the best (example: In 2nd gear, slow walking speed, under load..say uphill some..wick-it quick to 1/2 throttle and there should be no hesitation).

Re: has anyone leaned the needle?

Ha! We've changed needle clips, needle slopes, L1 lengths, we've put shims under the needle clip to get to someplace between the .90mm needle clips and used double tapers. We've bored carbs, put divider plates in the front and the back, modified idle circuitry, machined slides, modified jet nozzles and jet screens. We've bolted up 38mm carbs. We've swapped in airstrykers.

What about the main? You'll find kdxs from 145 to 300+! Yeah...they've been changed some. ;)

Seems 'we' have been busy, 'eh?

You're gonna have fun!!
 
Last edited:

Robcolo

Member
Jan 28, 2002
342
0
As you've noticed, the KDX is a completely different bike than your [and my] KX - - and that's why it's so easy to ride in the tight stuff- soft 4-stroke like power delivery and soft suspension that sucks up all the rocks & roots instead of deflecting off of them. The more you make it like the KX -heavier springs, aftermkt pipe,etc, the more it will ride - and tire you - like the KX does. In the quest to get my KDX to "go fast" and handle at speed, I added stiffer springs, FMF pipe, bored carb, flycut the head etc, etc. Well, It ended up handling much better going fast but lost most of it's tight gnarly trail going slow ability. So, I'm backpedaling - looking for some happy medium. If you add the pipe [recommended] you'll gain "tons" of power. I'd recommend adding a flywheel weight to offset the greatly increased throttle response or you'll think you're back on the KX. If you're really heavy, try stiffer front springs - but again not too stiff. I'm using 1 of the stock [.35] springs in 1 fork and a .38 in the other leg with good results. Installing Race Tech Gold Valves is probably the "best" mod I've done - all of that harshness over small bumps has disappeared and I can ride it all day without beating up on my arms. Just FYI, by revalving & respringing a KX, you can make it as good in the slow, tight stuff as a KDX ! You can also move the powerband [Eric Gorr cylinder mod] way down low for tractor like pulling at idle ! Either way you go, it's only money
 

farcry2

Member
Jun 23, 2003
35
0
Thanks for the input, I was leaning towards heavier fork springs and torque pipe for the 2000 kdx 200. I weigh 190 in gear with full camelback and the front is a little undersprung. My nephew (240#) has an 03 kdx 200 and we just installed FRP .42kg springs. When I test rode it over rocky, rooted sections the forks worked great. I may go with the FRP .38kg springs for my weight.
I am trying to sell the kx, it is just too long, peaky, and over damped for tight woods. The lack of agility and deflection off rocks/roots bothered me the most. There are aspects of it I'll miss though, with the dyno port pipe the power is always there and the suspension can absorb big MX hits no problem.
 
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