marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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Like i said before, i feel its to hold the centre of the 24.1s in place to stop them overbending-it doesnt make a 0.1mm bleed as the stack lifts against a very soft spring as soon as the fork moves.The bleed on a mid is all from the stack lifting.It doesnt have a inbetween phase.Its either shut or open.
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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bruce i wouldnt say its a soft mid or a stiffy:) somewhere in between-its one of the few mids i feel can be used with no mods-just base valve tweaks.The 04 rm mid seems to be usable in std form.
 

georgieboy

Member
Jan 2, 2001
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Sorry Marcus, you lost me. How can a 18.1 shim in front of the 24.1's prevent them from overbending.
Uhmmm I wld say put them behind the 24.1's.
Or is it sort of in between solution. Putting them behind them wld make them to stiff, and in front wld just do the trick just enough.
I wld say that only the tips of 24.1's take the oil flow now, as the 18.1 is taken a large bit of the flow. (is that the deal)
 

bclapham

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Nov 5, 2001
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Originally posted by marcusgunby
The 04 rm mid seems to be usable in std form.

have you had the chamber apart yet? if its anything like the 02, its just 4 big shims and a post going against a ~11.5mm backplate/stopper with ~0.2mm lift. i found it doesnt take messing with the mid to make a half decent fork go really bad and yes the passive tweaks are the way to go, the passive bleed shims are a nice supply of spare shims as well:).

gorgie, i am not sure but maybe there isnt as much leverage on the 18.1 face shim and so its not as easy to bend it with the oil slow as when compared to a 24.1??? please correct me if i am wrong someone :thumb:
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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Im finding it hard to explain but IMO(remember it is only my opinion)the 18mm is acting like a sandwich with the 18mm and the 10mm as the bread and the shims in between as the filling.The shims in the middle bend over the 10mm clamp and the 18mm actually presses into the centre of the 24mm shim at the top.This stops the 24mm centre from bellowing outwards.Get a shim and bend it alot and you will see the centre will try to move towards the piston face.However it maybe they do just use it as a bleed shim that doesnt really do anything??????

Jeff/jer/russ your opinions???
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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bruce i havnt as yet done the fork mid-it felt not too far away in testing so i decided against it.I will do a total strip in the winter.
 

Jeremy Wilkey

Owner, MX-Tech
Jan 28, 2000
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Marcus,
I think your on target with the distrobution of force idea. However they do account for the bleed it creates in the rebound stack, take that "distributor shim" out and you have major problems with rebound being slow.. BTW I first saw this in 96 with the RM midvalve where you had a stationary pivot shim, which really adds up...



Another Intresting thing I've learned about the backing plates on midvalves is they are not there to control area or limit area growth but to rather prevent the shims from over opening due to fluid momnetum and destroying themsleves.. I've conducted lots of exsperiments on this with my Solid Clamp Midvalve concept, and it does not do what "we've" allways thought it did...

Later!
Jer
 

georgieboy

Member
Jan 2, 2001
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Aha, a bleed shim for the rebound! that is new for me.
Like the idea though.
Maybe a bleed shim for the rebound will kill that nastiness in the chop stuff.
 

Onore GT

Member
Feb 20, 2001
27
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Originally posted by marcusgunby
Did you measure the mid lift as i have a different lift for each fork???

Sorry Marcus, I have not changed the mid-speed on the last few KXs I have owned so I did not check the lift when I had them apart. I probably wont have them apart again soon but if I do I will let you know what I come up with…
 
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