KDX 220 torquey?

[trojanfan]

I have been riding a friends 2002 KDX 220. Bone stock. It does not appear to be torquey. I had a 80s model KDX 250 and it had smooth powerband and torque. This bike seems to chug and then come on the pipe and scream all of a sudden. I find it very difficult to ride in tight stuff and anything slick, loose, or rocky. It might just be me because I am a vet rider just getting back into riding again after 20 years, but other people who have ridden it including some that have owned KDX 200s seem to think it has a strange powerband. The height of the bike also bothers me as I have a short inseam and this just complicates the issue.

I have read a lot about the torquey 220, but this bike doesn't seem to be. Do you think this bike is normal for a 220 or is something up with it. Can this 220 be made to have a more 4 stroke like powerband with the FMF rev pipe, reeds, etc that everyone suggests?

Also, has anyone had experience with the Kouba link #2 on their bike? I understand it lowers the seat height but you only have to slide the forks up until they hit the bars in order to keep the geometry.

I am considering buying this bike, but I am afraid that I may end up having to get a CRF230 for the ride height and powerband if the KDX can't be fixed. Maybe at this point in my riding that is about all I can handle anymore.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Sounds like the 220 you rode needs to be rejetted or something minor to spread out the power a little better from the bottom. Thinking you will get more out of a crf230 is a big mistake. The 220 has it all over the 230, and you really can't compare the two bikes in my opinion. Get the links if the seat height is a big concern, and if you're still not convinced with the KDX, get a 250 4t

The KDX already comes with a heavier flywheel, you can change the gearing too if you want it to lug more like a four stroke. But why????

 

[adam728]

A KDX220 is a super torquey bike. Stock it can easily take off in 3rd gear, and the power is super smooth and fairly boring. If his bike lacks bottom end and then has a hit there is definitly something wrong. It could be jetting, reeds, or a powervalve problem.

I would check the reeds, clean the carb and check the jetting. Stock jetting is pretty rich and the bike may benifit from a jetting change. If doing that stuff doesn't cure it then it's time to get the KIPS system checked out.

Try this site : http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/ for tips on jetting and info on the KIPS system.

As for the CRF230, NOOOOOOOO. As rubbersidedown stated, it's not even a comparable bike. A friend of mine got one for his first bike (against my recommendations) last year. It was a great bike to learn on, for about 1 month. Then he was asking what he could do to beef up the suspension and get more power. A KDX is a far better starting platform, because you can make a pretty decent performer out of it.

 

[trojanfan]

Thanks

Yeah, I need to go over it, but haven't really been able to check the bike out because my friend just brings it out when we ride. We went out yesterday cutting some new trails on the mountain and I spent a lot of time on my butt. I can bog it, but at some point in the low end of the powerband the hit comes on and makes it squirelly.

Everyone says it is not supposed to be like that. I was hoping it would be more like my old KDX 250 in powerband (but not weight!).

I really need to also setup the suspension for my weight. The guy that owns it is about 250 lbs and I weigh 160. I can see that the rear spring compression is cranked way down. The back kicks up quite a bit on rocks, but it is still pretty plush even with that.

The guy I ride with has a CRF230 and he is doing all the Super Hunky mods to it including putting on CR125 forks. It fits me really good, and is easy to ride. I rode it over the same trails I rode the KDX and I was faster and didn't have to work as hard, but I think that is because this KDX has something up with the engine.

I can buy this 2002 220 for $2000. Is that a fair price? The bike doesn't have that much time on it. It still has the original tires which are in good shape.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Don't take offense trojanfan, but if you say you're faster on the same trails on your friends crf230, than maybe you just need to re-learn clutching a two stroke if it's been awhile since your kdx250.

Sure you can ride easier on the 230 cause there is nothing challenging about it, start it and go. Those bikes are great in that sense.
The KDX will take a little more finesse to ride that motor to it's full potential which is why it's starting to make sense why you say it seems to go from bogging to taking off.

 

[Tom L]

There is a great deal of tuning flexibility with a KDX220. I think the major cause of the unfriendly powerband you speak of is the FMF Rev pipe. Switch it for a Torque pipe and the bike will be completely different. The Torque pipe has no top end "Hit" like the Rev pipe does. It's gives a perfectly smooth and torquey power delivery with alot more low end power. Add the Fredette torque ring too for even better power just above idle.

 

[trojanfan]

Thanks Again

No offense taken to the comments regarding my riding ability. I am having to re-learn. And I am also having to go from desert riding to woods riding as I grew up in Southern California.

I am really trying to figure out what bike will be good for me. I have Carte Blanche from my wife to buy what I want, she just wants me to be happy with it. I don't want to get something that will be good for me now, but not a year from now. My friend has replaced the tires, shock, front forks, etc on the CRF230 and is still looking to do more. He says it is fun to do this work. I want a bike that doesn't leave me wanting for something else and requires me to spend over $1000 to get things right.

I think if I owned the KDX and could set it up for me, I could get things right for a few hundred dollars and be happy. I am poring over the forum reading everything I can find. One thing that is confusing is the pipe recommendations. Fredette says not to buy the torque pipe for the 220. Others say do it.

 

[adam728]

I think the major cause of the unfriendly powerband you speak of is the FMF Rev pipe. Switch it for a Torque pipe and the bike will be completely different. The Torque pipe has no top end "Hit" like the Rev pipe does. It's gives a perfectly smooth and torquey power delivery with alot more low end power. Add the Fredette torque ring too for even better power just above idle.

Re-read his post, the bike is 100% stock.


The reason many people do not recommend the torque pipe for the 220 is because of the different porting from the 200. All the pipes out there were developed for the 200 engine, and also happen to fit the 220. However, the exact same pipe will not give the same performance changes on both motors due to the porting (and to some degree, the carb differences). A rev pipe on the 200 gives a hit in the midrange and a lot more top end. A rev pipe on a 220 just gives more power everywhere.

Everything I've done to my bike should give it more of a "hit", but it is still a very smooth engine, even with a rev pipe, porting, bored carb, etc.

 

[oldturtle]

I also own a box stock 2003 KDX220. I bought it one year ago for grandson who was coming off an XR200. Now I go back and forth between KDX220 and my XR400. I am at the ancient end of my dirt riding career and the totally stock KDX220 is one of the easiest bikes to ride of all time. Most guys on here never ride the KDX totally stock and do not remember how smooth and gradual the power band comes on. The stock motor starts pulling right at idle and just keeps pulling slowly with almost no hit at all compared to a piped and jetted KDX. My advice is buy the 220 and $2000 is good price. Very first thing do a simple top end with new piston and rings and clean the power valves. Check that jetting and air box is all stock. I believe you have a simple dirty power valve that is sticking. You will then see what we are all talking about. The CRF230 is an over weight beginners bike and one that you will quickly get sick of.

 

[trojanfan]

Some more great responses. I really appreciate it. I am going to try to get the bike in my garage so I can check it out before I take it out next time.

I will look in the forum for how to clean the power valve. That sounds like a good thing to checkout.

I have been lucky to be able to ride the bike several times now. There are times I love it, and times I hate it. Part of it is just me getting used to riding again, plus learning to ride the woods. Damn those trees! All I ever rode before was desert hare scrambles, trail riding, and motocross (I had a DKW 125 a few decades ago).

 

[crazybrit]

I can buy this 2002 220 for $2000. Is that a fair price? The bike doesn't have that much time on it. It still has the original tires which are in good shape.

Trojanfan .... I just bought a 1998 220 (stock front tire @50%, 2nd rear tire @75%). Bone stock except for a bash plate. I spent $1875. I almost snagged another 1998, similar condition but w/ Pro-Taper bars, FMF header/arrestor, computer and stock parts for $2000. Both were in Portland, OR and I looked for a while. There isn't a lot of rhyme or reason to the pricing, they all seem to be in the $1800-2100 range for 1998-2001 and you may/may not get extras thrown in but it doesn't seem to massively change the price. The one I missed was an excellent deal, the one I got was a good deal.

So, if it's in as good shape as it sounds I'd say that is a very good price indeed.

Tony

 

[G. Gearloose]

Egad, not a crx230...

 

[GabeM]

I've been riding a 95 KDX 200 for 5-yrs and I love it for my type of riding: woods, hills, woods. I'm not fast, but love to go into the tight stuff.
2-weeks ago I landed a 99 200R for my 15 yr old. this bike is still on it's original tires, and I know the guy I bought it from. Paid $2K, bike is stock other than a power core II silencer and seat and tank graphics, no pipe.
I got to ride it at Loretta Lynn's Ranch (TN) this weekend for some trail work and all I can say is WOW....! what a difference. The power is all at the bottom, I stopped using 1st gear at all, the thing would lug my 220lbs butt up any hill in 3rd gear and keep pulling. I sold my 200 and am looking for another 220 for myself. The biggest thing I noticed was after all that riding, I wasn't tierd. The 220 is just easier to ride.
Anyone got one near middle TN, I'm all ears and got the cash burning in my pocket.

 

[trojanfan]

GabeM. Actually I live in Middle Tennessee as well. We have been riding up on Carter Mountain in Franklin County. Some of the guys I have been riding with are talking about going to LL's this year. Is it worth the trip?

 

[KDXBoise]

I am also vertically challenged (5'5" and 28 1/2 inseam) and ride a 2004 KDX220. It is a fantastic bike. The first thing I did when I got it was install the #2 Kouba link and slide the forktubes up in the clamp. Now the bike fits me perfectly. My only complaint is that now the kickstand is too tall and you have to be careful the bike doesn't tip over when parked (not really a big deal). I put on the FMF desert pipe, Q silencer, and a Steahly flywheel weight. I can't think of a better bike for someone with short legs who wants some power and performance. There is no way I would ride a CRF230 after riding a KDX.

 

[GabeM]

Loretta Lynn ride

hey trojanfan, LL is definately worth it.
I am the secretary for MTDR, been on the board of directors for 3 yrs, and I have to say of all the rides we do, this is the most fun. If you are thinking of riding, try and pre-register to save $10 a rider.
Check out our site www.mtdr.net and follow the links for a pre-registration, it's not too late to save some $$

Hope to see you there, I'll be working registration, so if you come, stop and say hi.

Gabe
MTDR Board Member/Secretary