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Canadian Daves JustKDX
kdx 250 engine swap with kx 250... Is it possible?
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[QUOTE="Matt90GT, post: 666753, member: 30871"] More compression = more power everywhere. Running the thinner head gasket will make a noticeable difference in the power of the bike. Especially with a pipe and proper jetting. Be sure to remove the air snorkle from the airbox lid also. Be sure to have a clean filter and fresh packing in the silencer. Start with a new plug. I run the Iridium NGKs the BR9EIX units. They give the most energy to the spark of any of the NGK plugs. In simple terms, gives you more power in the 7/8-full throttle range. The carb is the same PWK38 unit on both bikes. The KDX is jetted like a fat pig stock. Here is what you need to get close: Air screw (2 turns out from full) 1367H needle (next leaner offered from Kawasaki) #6 slide (stock is #5, the 6 is leaner) 38 pilot 155-158 main depending on conditions/altitude. It will cost you about $100 to get the new needle and slide along with some brass to tune for where you are. Well worth it on the bike! Like said a pipe (I run the Dynoport unit. Gives lots of power and is much thicker than the PC and FMF units) and V force II reeds will help the motor along with the thinner head gasket from the KX. Suspension, wow! First off lighten the bike. Remove the extensions off the subframe that hold the fender up. Toss the rear fender and get a 91 KX250 unit. The front forks are tough to get working properly. But run a .40 spring +/- .01 depending on your weight ( I am about 170 usually!). Run a light 5 weight oil 4.5" from the top. You will also need some SealSavers to help keep dirt from the seals. Worth the $20 there. Raise the forks about 5-7mm in the clamps. I ran the compression like 10 clicks in and that worked well until I got into a race speed of pace. At that pace, the lack of rebound really effected the bikes handling in the rough stuff. So now i have some KX forks from the same year on the bike. For the bars, replace the rubber cones with aluminum units. About $30 there. I personally run the ProTaper woods bars and really like them. They are worth the money! For the rear, play with the clickers until you get them right. Run about 100-105mm of sag back there. The stock spring is about right for most people. I got a deal on an Ohlins stock and installed that. Seems more controlled and plush than the stocker, but the stocker needed new fluid and a recharge to give it a fair shake. Beyond that, I have cut down the seat foam to get lower on the bike. Others have ground down the steering stops to allow more turn there. I have not found the need yet to do that. Hope that helps. I do have some links on setting up the clickers and sag on the bike in general if you need them. [/QUOTE]
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Dirt Bike Discussions By Brand
Canadian Daves JustKDX
kdx 250 engine swap with kx 250... Is it possible?
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