KDX220 jetting and exhaust

[lemmy]

A couple of months ago I bought a KDX220 (2003) from a guy, but the day I bought it, I got hurt on a track day at Barber in Birmingham on my R6 so I haven't gotten to ride my bike yet. The other day I started it up and it smoked a lot but got better after a few minutes but it didn't run that good. Since, I have cleaned and oiled the air filter and cleaned the carbs. I noticed the jet was a 165 which is WAY rich for the 220, but then I measured and found out the bore was 35mm so I assume it has the KDX200 carbs (how do you tell this besides measuring the bore?). I thought I might have a 200 instead of 220 but then I looked on the engine ID and it says "DX220" at the beginning. Now I am wondering which pipe I have on there. It says "FMF Gnarly Gold Series So. Calif." but I can't find any other info. How do I tell if it is the Torque or Desert pipe? Also, how do I tell from the VIN what year the bike is (I was told it was 2003)? Also, it seems the jetting info on the JDJetting Jet Kit suggest a much richer setting (#4 needle, 165 main) versus the FMF website (#3 needle, 155-160 main for the KDX200). I know I should do my own jetting, but I want to start a a good position and work from there. Since I hae KDX200 carbs on my 220 bike, should I follow the 200 or 220 recommendations (I assume 200)? Thansk.

 

[lemmy]

Ok, so maybe my post is too long. Can someone just tell me how I tell if I have an FMF Gnarly desert or woods pipe?

 

[G. Gearloose]

Yes, 200.
Very few require a main larger than 155.
Since someone has been into the carb Get the code off the needle and pilot before we go too far.

Find an ID# on the pipe, two digits

 

[lemmy]

Yes, 200.
Very few require a main larger than 155.
Since someone has been into the carb Get the code off the needle and pilot before we go too far.

Find an ID# on the pipe, two digits

Ok, I pulled the needle back out to get the code. It is a R1173L then below that it says 2AFL and the clip is 3rd position from the top. The Pilot Jet is a 45. Main jet is 165. The code on the exhaust is 055-020057 so I have the Woods pipe, and I the silencer is the Powercore2.

BTW. the air box snorkel is removed and several large holes are drilled in the lid. Should I go ahead and remove the entire lid and mount the regulator or whatever that is on the side of the box or is it ok as it is?

 

[G. Gearloose]

Sounds like you may have a carb from a 200, not a bored & tweaked 220 carb. Jetting is stock soggy and then some with the fat main.

A drilled lid w/o the shnorkel is all the air you'll need.

Yes, you can do much better with the jetting, check the archives if you can't find what you need report back.

220's typically like the desert pipe to hake up the top end, the bottom usually doesn't need more help than good jetting.

Your's should tractor when you got it dialed in.

 

[glad2ride]

Hi. Look on the exhaust pipe mounting tab. The two current versions of the FMF pipe have K-30 or K-35 stamped into them. K-30 is the Desert pipe, and K-35 is the Woods pipe.

http://www.fmfracing.com/default_de...make=KAWASAKI&app_model=KDX220R&app_year=2003

On the VIN, the tenth digit out of the 17 digits is the year code. A 2003 model will have a "3" in the tenth digit position.

A = 1980
B = 1981
C = 1982
D = 1983
E = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997
W = 1998
X = 1999
Y = 2000
1 = 2001
2 = 2002
3 = 2003
4 = 2004
5 = 2005
6 = 2006
7 = 2007
8 = 2008
9 = 2009

 

[lemmy]

Also, I will be riding mostly below 2000 feet and I have Boysen reeds on the bike. I have looked through old posts and I have seen people with my setup (220 with 200 carbs and boysen reeds) with everything from 150-160 and clips on the needle from position 3 to position 1. I understand doing the plug check, but I just don't see how I can do it. I can't think of anywhere I can get my bike up to full throttle in the higher gears.

 

[dansavage]

Lemmy,

I have a very similar KDX 220 set up like yours, almost exactly the same.

I'm running the 1174 needle in the mid clip position, 42 pilot, and 155 main. I had her out this weekend, the 155 main is running it too rich. Your local bike shop, or an online provider, will be able to get you a few jets so that you can get her dialed in accordingly.

My situation is similar to yours in that I don't have a good place to stretch her out in order to conduct plug chops. Since running too lean isn't an issue for me right now, I'm going to wait to fine-tune mine when I'm at my in-laws in south Georgia later in October, there are plenty of long, desolate roads down there that are perfect for this application.

I would check to confirm, if I were you, that the carb float level is dead on. If that isn't right, you'll never get it running right, I had the same issue with mine. The justkdx website has some great technical information on it from canadian dave, this is the guide I used to give mine a once over. Getting a service manual isn't a bad thing either, it can be an excellent reference when you have nowhere else to turn.

good luck!

 

[lemmy]

Thanks. I have the 1173 needle and then a needle with no numbers and blue paint on the end (I think it was part of a JDJetting jet kit). I am somewhat confused because the guy gave me the jet kit box and instruction and jets, but the jets in it were 155x1, 160x2 165x2 and one blue tipped needle. It was supposed to have a red tip needle and some smaller jets, but mabye when he swapped out the 220 carb for the 200 carb he let the red needle and smaller jets go with it. Right now I am going to try 155 main (smallest I have) and the 1173 needle in the 2nd from top and a 45 pilot. But I am going to call local dealers or motorcycle carbs tomorrow to see if I can get some other jets and needles.

Also, I checked the float and it was perfect. I think checked it right, I checked it with the float valve sealed off, but without the plungler in the float valve compressed.

 

[lemmy]

I was wanting to order an R1174K needle but when looking at the Keihin catalog I can't find anything exactly like it. It looks like it would be a BFQ but they only have a BEQ and BGQ. Do I have to get the R1174K from Kawasaki? I have seen some recommend a CGK needles. Any suggestions on what I should try?

 

[G. Gearloose]

No on the CGK unless you can confirm your carb is from a '89-94 bike.
Yes, the R11XXX needles are Kawi's designation.
I don't recommend the B needles.

 

[G. Gearloose]

http://www.dirtrider.net/justkdx

http://www.dirtrider.net/justkdx/tech_tips.html

http://www.dirtrider.net/justkdx/jetneedles.html

 

[lemmy]

No on the CGK unless you can confirm your carb is from a '89-94 bike.
Yes, the R11XXX needles are Kawi's designation.
I don't recommend the B needles.

What is wrong with the B needles? Wouldn't a B be the exact same taper as the R11xxxx and then a BxQ would have the exact same length (2.745) and taper (1degree 15 minute) as a R1174x needle? Then a BEQ or BGQ would be just have a little shorter (38.15) or longer (39.95) L1 than the R1174K (38.6 L1) which could be somewhat adjusted for with needle clip position.

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/jetneedles.html

 

[G. Gearloose]

Many have been through this. The B tapers are just too tame. Plus The Kawi needles will require fat pilots and don't transition well. If you clean up the middle they go too lean at smaller openings

If your carb is indeed a '95+, best get a CEK and both a 35 and a 38 pilot. If you really want a B needle get a BEL.

Check if your slide is a #5.
If its a #6 then the carb may be older and the recommended needle would be different.

 

[lemmy]

Ok, thanks for your help. So you are saying that even the R1174K and B needles just don't have enough taper? So I guess the lower taper of a B requires a fatter pilot to keep from being too lean, but if you go with a C taper, the pilot doesn't need to be as big?

So it seems that compared to what FMF says (42/45 pilot, 155 main, 1174K needle) you think the pilot should be smaller/leaner, but the needle (1/4-3/4 throttle) should be richer (smaller diameter, shorter L1, and more taper)? I'll have to check on the slide.

 

[lemmy]

I purchased this bike on the same day that I was injured in a track day so I haven't gotten to ride it off road until today. For the most part I liked it except that at a fixed throttle position (maybe 1/4-1/2) while climbing and at low RPM it would have very little power, but then when the RPM climbed to a certain point the power would come on VERY abruptly and it would be difficult to maintain control. The rear tire would slide out and the bike would just rocket off. Is this a jetting issue? I thought jetting would just fix response during certain throttle position, not different RPMs.

 

[G. Gearloose]

Could be jetting, it its really really down low then it will feel abrupt when it cleans up.

Your bike should be more predictable but power is not linear with rpm like a 4s

If its too touchy someone may have hogged out the jug with poor results.

read this old post, if you can get past the issues with the 36mm bore and mod, and see how the pilot and needle must be matched.
in the end you will see recommendations for the stock carb.


http://webpages.charter.net/ggearloose/EMERGENCY RB Designs Jetting Info.doc

 

[lemmy]

I found out I have a #5 slide. I ordered a CEK, CEL, and BEL needles, 150, 152 (already have 155 and up) main jets, and a 38 and 40 pilot. Can't wait to try this. Thanks for your help.

 

[lemmy]

I put in the CEL needle and the 38 pilot jet. I think my pilot jet is still too big though. RPMs just keep getting higher as I unscrew the air screw. Also, the bike has MUCH more power in the mid throttle range, but seems to be even more of a difference between low throttle power and mid. A friend rode it and said it felt like a car that has a huge turbo with lots of lag. It is REALLY hard to climb hills with it. Also, it is harder to start now and sometimes when I stop on the trail it idles really low and dies but other times it idles fine.

 

[G. Gearloose]

better, but how are you setting the air screw?

Set it for best off-throttle responce. If your setting it in neutral your setting it wrong. None of that highest-idle crap neither, thats too lean will induce a lean bog-zap.

Best set it for best results tractoring up a slight incline, just off idle. Should roll off idle really strong.


Something is amiss.. have you checked the reeds?

 

[lemmy]

I have it 1.5 turns out. I did set it for best off idle response, but it was on flat ground. I haven't checked the reeds yet. What do I look for? Will it be obvious?

 

[lemmy]

I got my 35 pilot in tonight and installed it but haven't gotten to try it out yet. I also pulled the Boyesen Rad reed valve. Everything looked fine. There is just a small amount of black on the carbon reeds. Should I clean this with carb cleaner or just leave them alone and re-install?

 

[G. Gearloose]

Yes, best leave them alone.

 

[lemmy]

I now have the 35 pilot with the air screw about 1.5 turns out. I went out for a day of riding and things are pretty good. The CEL needle definitely is an improvement over the stock needle. I still have the problem that when I start the bike up and for the first 30-45 minutes of riding it idles fine. But after that it won't idle. I end up screwing in the idle speed screw all the way and it still won't idle. There is still too big of a difference between low RPM power and mid/hi RPM power. When it hits the power band it is like a rocket. I guess I just have to get used to riding a 2-stroke because I don't think that is a jetting issue. I have gone to a 13/50 sprocket combo, but I think thinking of going to a 12/48 or 12/49 to help with this.

 

[G. Gearloose]

Darn, Something is still amiss, it should idle all day.