KDX220 Port height adjustments

TriniG

Member
Feb 5, 2002
69
0
I took down the top end of my 1998 KDX220 to replace piston and rings. I noticed that at bottom dead center, the piston crown has a step up above the exaust and transfer ports, when measured, of about 1.2mm.

A friend has suggested that I should make a spacer gasket out of alluminum and use two paper bottom gaskets on either side to raise the block so that the piston crown becomes level with the ports. Then measure the top dead centre squish using solder or plastercene to see how much of the top of the block needs to be shaved to bring the compression within normal tolerances.

He also suggested using the botton gasket to determine whether the casings need to be properly matched to the block. There seems to be a little that could be trimmed to match.

Has anyone done anything like this to their bikes? I have been told it should make by bike burn fuel more effieciently and reduce the overheating I experience under harsh riding conditions, plus an overall improvement of performance by 5-10%.
 

Tom Cox

Member
May 16, 2003
59
0
I'm dating myself here, but back in the 60's and 70's we did what was described to you, but it was because we were using a piston from a different motorcycle trying to effect port timing. Another way we use to change port timing, was filing away material from the piston crown in the area of the ports. If you have enough material between the top ring land and the top edge of the piston, that you can file away the piston crown and not destabilize the piston ring, its a cheap way of accomplishing what you want to do.
The overheating you're experiencing, have you removed the radiator air directional vanes and installed guards? Removing the directional vanes will cause a KDX under hard running conditions to overheat.
 

TriniG

Member
Feb 5, 2002
69
0
Overheating etc

My fix for overheating has been to install two computer fans on the left radiator. This has reduced the frequency of boil overs. I also use a coolant made by Redline. I use my high beam light switch to turn the fans on. No, I have not removed any directional vanes or installed guards.
 

kx200

Member
Feb 1, 2001
171
0
How was your bike running before you took it apart? If it was running fine just put it back together. :ride:
 

Tom Cox

Member
May 16, 2003
59
0
Coolant

Quite innovative using the cooling fans. I'm surprised the lighting coil produces enough energy to power them.
I'm aware of, but have not used the coolant by RedLine.
I do not have any boil over problems with my 200, but I did with the 220. I now use a waterless coolant produced by Evans Cooling Systems, Inc. (www.EvansCooling.com) Since this is a waterless product you would need to purchase their Prep Fluid, to rid your cooling system of all water based coolant. They provide three coolant products. I've used two, a product identified as NPG+ and NPGR. The NPG+ product has an operating range of -40 to 375 deg. F. The NPGR has an operating range of -10 to 400 deg. F. I have not experienced any boil over using either product. Zip Ty Racing (ZipTyRacing.com) sells a product called XF+ (E-Treme Formula Plus). Again this is a waterless coolant produced by Evans Cooling for Zip Ty Racing. As far as I know Zip Ty Racing does not offer any Prep product. There have been other threads that had information regarding the Evans products. People have noted cooler operating temperature using the Evans products. I've never checked the operating temperature, I can't comment on that. The only down side in using this type of product is if you have a leak and loss of coolant, you can't put water into the system.
 

Rhodester

Member
May 17, 2003
549
0
Are you sure that the engine runs cooler with Evans or is it that it just doesn't boil?
 

Tom Cox

Member
May 16, 2003
59
0
As I noted, I do not know if if runs cooler because I've not checked, but I have read responses to other threads where the individual did check and even stated the amount of temperature reduction. Yes it does not boil over using this product.
 
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