KIPS question

[AlH]

Recently my 2k KDX200 began running poorly at higher speeds. Low power and missing alot. Upon playing with the KIPS I found that when actuating it manually under the left cover it was a little sticky. A few manual rotations and it appeared to free up. Haven't had a chance to ride it on the street yet to check it, this a dual sport licensed bike. Is it normal for this to stick and not actuate automatically? Does actuating it manually harm anything?
Running Redline synthetic racing oil at 48:1, FMF torque pipe and jetting/needle per Fredette specs.

 

[prk03]

I would start simple. Try a new spark plug. I use br8es NGK. Also check and clean air filter if in doubt. 01 200KDX

 

[Chief]

prk,

That was my first thought. It's amazing what a new plug could do. If that doesn't work try cleaning up the kips linkage. If it has all steel use oven cleaner then wash it off quickly.

Chief

 

[AlH]

Thanks but I've done the new plug, cleaned/reoiled air filter, cleaned carb, repacked/cleaned FMF Turbine Core II silencer.
The question was-
Does actuating the KIPS linkage manually harm anything? And is a sticking KIPS a cause of poor high speed running?
Maybe I'll get a chance to ride it in other than the backyard today and see if it is cleared up.

 

[canyncarvr]

'Does actuating the KIPS linkage manually harm anything'

No.

Well..presuming you don't use a 1/2"drive 22" long breaker bar to tweak it. ;)


'And is a sticking KIPS a cause of poor high speed running?'

Depends on where it sticks.

There is a spring loaded detent (that bolt directly under the main shaft on the LH side of the cylinder?). 'Stick' isn't the word I'd use to describe the force required to move the KIPS past that detent and the actuator spring. If it was squeaky clean you'd hear a 'tic' when the detent ball moved.

If it's the return action you are referring to (it sticks open) that shouldn't happen if it's fairly clean, either. It might be a bit slow to return..it won't snap back with 'exuberance' unless it's squeaky clean either.

Leave the slotted cover off, mark the nut with something so you can tell more easily when it rotates..and see if it indeed does actuate as it should.

 

[AlH]

Thanks. I'll look at it again as soon as I get the chance. I removed the left hand KIPS cover and revved the motor...it barely moved. When I moved it with a socket and T handle it would move a lot more. The first time there was kind of a place where a little extra torque was required. Now that it has been moved manually a few times it moves much easier. I also removed the exhaust and looked up in there while moving the actuator. Ports open and shut just fine it seemed.
Gotta ride it fast to be sure it's fixed. Maybe today....so little time-so many chores.

 

[canyncarvr]

The KIPS does commonly gum up. Heck, look at the life it lives! Well, or where it lives. Ugh!

You're aware of the service manual error on reassy? Take note of the correction on CDave's site (linked in the 'every kdx rider should read..' at the top of this forum).

Just cuz you can wrench it open doesn't mean the actuator can.

**NOTE** The nut on top of the actuating rod is LHT. And support the shaft when you wrench the nut!!

You knew that......right? ;)

 

[AlH]

Yep...made the service manual correction some time back. And read the warnings about the nut/shaft. I've had zero trouble with the bike until recently so haven't had any reason to dig into any of it. Still didn't manage to get a high speed run in today...maybe tomorrow

 

[kdxfreeeek]

my kips valvs look like the might be reversed but seem to be workin fine and yes sumone already broke that little peice in case got in on the way but my queston is

IS there a way to swap the kips valves without pulling the cylinder I HOPE CUZ I JUST PUT IT ON thank you

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