Feb 24, 2005
24
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Hope you can help me again, I do have a previous post "87 KX 125 running poorly" but since this is a new topic I wanted to post a seperate post.

My bike is running poorly, it starts and idles but anything more than 1/4 throttle and the bike will not rev any further. Things investigated so far:
Electrics - new stator coil etc
Top end replacement - inc powervalves
Carb - full clean and re-set
Reed valves - replaced

I had the carb cleaned and checked by a mechanic, got the bike back today but still have the same problem. Decided to further investigate the pv's and found that when I removed both KIPS covers (to check rod movement when the bike is running) and ran the bike it sounded perfect! with the pv rod movement steady through the revs. Took the bike out with the covers off and it ran like a dream! Came back, cleaned and installed both covers, fitted them THEN THE PROBLEM RETURNED!! My questions are this:
1) what effect does removing the KIPS covers have, specifically the left hand side?
2) If I disconnect the arm that holds the pv rod to the advancer assembly and run the bike, should there be visable movement in the rod when revs are increased?
3) I seemd to have blown the spark plug at some point, is this normal?

I have recently removed the clutch cover and advancer assembly to check for obvious signs but nothing! Everything seems in perfect working order

Any suggestions appreciated

Thanks for your help
 

Micahdawg

Member
Feb 2, 2001
503
0
One thought is that the seal in your rod assembly may be loose and worn out. It probably is if the bike is that old. When you remove the covers you might be allowing air to leak into the cylinder, through that rod and the powervalves, thus leaning out the mixture. WIth the covers in place there would be more of a seal and less way for air to be drawn in.

If this is the case, then maybe your problems are just a rich condition for some reason. You blew a spark plug...was it oil fouled? IF so then this could further prove a rich condition.

Improper jetting or shot crank seals could richen everything up. Did you check the jetting and needle position when you cleaned it. What premix and ratio are you running?

Do you notice a lot of oil behind the KIPS covers? If it leaks one way then it should leak the other way too.

Micah
 
Feb 24, 2005
24
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I am not sure whether the problem is carb or pv related, today the bike started first time and sounded great (rhs KIPS cover removed, arm operating smoothly). Took it out on the road for a test and it pulled my arm off in first and second, then died in third, back to the same problem????

Seen a guy on the road who was convinced the he had exactly the same problem and it was carb related (in his case his pilot jet had come loose), so took it off and checked it over. Couldnt see anything obvious but I did notice that the fuel valve seemed to be 'loose' in its seat, when I removed the valve it was moving up and down freely in the valve seat, is this normal?

Also we found out that the overflow outlet at the very bottom of the carb was blocked so cleaned it out. Only problem is that when I started it up it was worse?

Its seems to run great for aboout 2 mins, then dies. The guy with me thinks its flooding itself. This leads me to think that if the revs are limnited by the carb, then the bike will not get up to the revs it needs to operate the pv? therefore the pv will not operate either

Any more ideas appreciated
 
Feb 24, 2005
24
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forgot to add that when we noticed the blocked overflow, cleaned it and assembled the carb, petrol pissed out of the tube for about 30 seconds to a minute, stopped, then pissed out then stopped,
 
Feb 24, 2005
24
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this is strange!

Thoroughly cleaned the carb, checked float height, jets etc and re-assembled. Cranked up the bike but the problem was still there!

I removed the left KIPS valve and it ran great! Can ANYONE explain how this may happen
 

Micahdawg

Member
Feb 2, 2001
503
0
Is the float needle in good shape? Even if your float hieght is at the right level, if that viton tip of the needle is not in good shape it would allow gas to continue to flood the carb. Not sure if your running issues are linked to the carb, but you definitely have some carb issues if you keep dumping fuel. So I would go back through that and make sure you get it squared away before looking further.

Did you shake the floats and listen for fuel inside them? They could be leaking and screwing up the fuel hieght.

Lastly...check the wiring. Make sure you don't have any loose or bad connections. Might be worth your time to check some of hte connections for corrosion and hose them out with electrical cleaner. The CDI could also be shot.

Don't you just love chasing down problems. :)

Micah
 
Feb 24, 2005
24
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thanks micah,

One point to note - the float needle - is this the 'fuel valve'? - I have stripped down the carb and cleaned every component, one thing I did find with the fuel valve is that it 'moves' within its seating, when I say 'moves' I mean it is loose in the seating and is not fixed in position - should this be the case? Apart from this, the tip and rest of the valve seem in good order

The floats definitely 'float' as I tested them by filling the bowl with water during the cleaning process and checked the floats rose with the water level

The CDI is something I have NOT checked although I have had the stator plate and coils replaced with new ones, is this worth checking next

Thanks so far for your help, I am tempted to run the bike with the Left cover removed as I havent been on it for a while but feel I will probably causing more problems by doing so
 

Micahdawg

Member
Feb 2, 2001
503
0
I think we are talking about the same part...the rubber tipped needle that sits on the floats. It should sit loosly on the "tang" that sticks out from the float assembly. You bend the tang to adjust the hieght of the floats. I think the floats should sit parallel to the carb body (mating surface for the bowl to bolt to) when the float needle is seated firmly in the fuel valve.

Did you make note of the jet sizes, needle clip position, and air screw adjustment? If not you may want to see what's in there and check with Kawasaki dealer and fmf's website to see approximately what jetting you should have.

A friends RT180 smoked two cdi boxes. Bike ran like pooo when they went bad. So it does happen.

Micah
 
Feb 24, 2005
24
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I thought about replacing the CDI but then thought "if the CDI was shot then surely the bike would run poor all the time" mine is running great.....when the left kips cover is removed

I susect the carb and cant help thinking its an air/fuel problem, my air filter is clean as a whistle. Someone suggested drilling a couple of hols in the air box to allow more flow of air, do yuo think this may help?
 

Micahdawg

Member
Feb 2, 2001
503
0
Might try just removing the airbox lid before drilling it. Did you make note of the carb jet sizes and such or just clean it? If you threw some numbers out and your elevation it might help.

Micah
 
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