jackflack44

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May 3, 2008
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In my Clymer Manual it says I need to apply antiseize lubricant before putting the plug back in. Is this true? And if so what type of lubricant?


I'm gonna change my radiator fluid. I know it needs to be a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. But would the stuff i find at Kroger (grocery store) work?
 

_JOE_

~SPONSOR~
May 10, 2007
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The anti-seize is intended to stop the corroding of dissimilar metals. It creates a barrier. Permatex makes some that should be readily available at any auto parts store. Unless you're one of the few people who care to take the time to jet, you won't leave a plug in long enough to corrode. The drawbacks are that it makes it easier to overtighten the plug and demage the treads in the head and it is MESSY. A little dab turns into a big smear, which is super easily transferred to anything you even come close to. I've never used it on my plugs.



Unless you get sub-freezing temps where you are in texas, distilled water and water wetter will be fine. You can use any anti-freeze/coolant for aluminum engines. Most "long life" automotive formulas are fine. I don't recommend running it for 100,000 miles or 5yrs like they say in cars(that's too long even in a car though), change it everytime you do the rings or annually.
 

jackflack44

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May 3, 2008
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Is my KX an aluminum engine? :think: And no, i didn't take the time to jet but the person that used it as a practice bike before me did ;)
 

_JOE_

~SPONSOR~
May 10, 2007
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Uhhh, yeah, it's aluminum. So are the radiators. Hence the need for antifreeze designed for aluminum engines.

If you leave the plug in there for a couple years then yes, use some anti-seize. Just be sure to follow the directions on the spark plug box as far as tightening. Usually it's like so much of a turn past initial contact.
 

jackflack44

Member
May 3, 2008
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Okay so stuff for small cars/trucks should work? thanks for the help.
 

Solid State

Member
Mar 9, 2001
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I always use aluminum based anti-seize on spark plugs. I recommend wearing gloves. Just put a small amount on the threads, then wipe off with a clean finger (I don't put any on the threads that extend into the combustion chamber). This leaves just enough in the bottom of the threads to keep the plugs from sticking due to corrosion from dissimiliar metals. It is messy so use gloves and don't wipe it on your clothes - very hard to get off, especially on your skin. It's readily available at any parts place and is pretty cheap. Anti-seize also comes in copper-based that is used for higher temps.

As far as anti-freeze is concerned, you should use some form of it mixed 50/50 with distilled water and a touch of water wetter. The ani-freeze (ethylene or propylene glycol) has rust inhibitors and water pump conditioners that should be in your coolant system for protection against wear and rust as well as freezing. (Don't use silica-based anti-freezes - read the label). The water wetter is an orange/red liquid also available at a parts place that is a surfactant that aids in increasing the surface contact of the coolant to the metal surfaces which increases the capacity of the coolant to draw heat from the motor.

There's nothing special about these products with respect to your particular machine. It's good advise to use them on all liquid-cooled aluminum motors including cars.

Good luck.
 
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