KX500 clutch removal
- Thread starter gwcrim
- Start date
I had to pull mine apart a couple times last season, so I became pretty familiar with the drill.
Unfortunately, you have to remove the whole side cover to get to it, as there is no clutch cover.
The first step would be to drain the coolant and oil. If you're clutch is smoked, I would run the bike and drain the oil. Then fill it up again and repeat. This will help flush out the aluminum particles from your old clutch. I don't know if others do the same, but I don't like the idea of having silver aluminum sludge between my new clutch plates.
Anyway, you'll also need to remove the kickstart lever, foot peg, and water pump hose. The water pump cover can stay on, as the whole water pump assy will come off with the outer engine cover.
The plastic powervalve cover also comes off to.
Next, remove the bolts that hold the cover on, and lift off the cover. It might be snug, but resist the urge to pry. Maybe try tapping it with a piece of wood to break the gasket seal. One mine, the most resistance was around the kickstart shaft seal.
The powervalve lever will come apart as you wiggle the cover off the side of the engine.
After you remove the screws in the pressure plate, the plates and disks can be pulled out.
Unfortunately, you have to remove the whole side cover to get to it, as there is no clutch cover.
The first step would be to drain the coolant and oil. If you're clutch is smoked, I would run the bike and drain the oil. Then fill it up again and repeat. This will help flush out the aluminum particles from your old clutch. I don't know if others do the same, but I don't like the idea of having silver aluminum sludge between my new clutch plates.
Anyway, you'll also need to remove the kickstart lever, foot peg, and water pump hose. The water pump cover can stay on, as the whole water pump assy will come off with the outer engine cover.
The plastic powervalve cover also comes off to.
Next, remove the bolts that hold the cover on, and lift off the cover. It might be snug, but resist the urge to pry. Maybe try tapping it with a piece of wood to break the gasket seal. One mine, the most resistance was around the kickstart shaft seal.
The powervalve lever will come apart as you wiggle the cover off the side of the engine.
After you remove the screws in the pressure plate, the plates and disks can be pulled out.
I put all the plates back in to keep the hub from spinning freely and hit the nut with an air impact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench it is more difficult to keep the hub from spinning. I'd advise buying a clutch holder instead of trying any other "tricks" to hold it. If you break the basket it's a high price item to replace. Even if you are removing a trashed basket and don't care if it's damaged you will still need to hold it when installing the new one.
Also, don't forget to flatten the locking washer before removing the nut.
Also, don't forget to flatten the locking washer before removing the nut.
yamahopper
Member
- May 8, 2005
- 11
- 0
clutch removal tool
I tried to reomve the nut on my YZ 125, no luck even with an impact gun ( 2 in fact) I was forced to drill out the nut, carefully not to damage the threads and split the nut in half. What a chore, in the process of installing the new clutch parts I was unable to hold the hub either.
I took the old steel plates, installed them on the old hub(removed from the bike) and welded the plates together as one piece, then I welded and old screw driver onto the plates as a hold back tool to tighten the nut to the proper torque.
Old plates and old screw driver plus 10 minutes of time was much better than buying the tool to hold it and it worked perfectly.
I tried to reomve the nut on my YZ 125, no luck even with an impact gun ( 2 in fact) I was forced to drill out the nut, carefully not to damage the threads and split the nut in half. What a chore, in the process of installing the new clutch parts I was unable to hold the hub either.
I took the old steel plates, installed them on the old hub(removed from the bike) and welded the plates together as one piece, then I welded and old screw driver onto the plates as a hold back tool to tighten the nut to the proper torque.
Old plates and old screw driver plus 10 minutes of time was much better than buying the tool to hold it and it worked perfectly.
Similar Topics
