leaking oil

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Jul 7, 2003
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#1
i took the shifter off my bike today and tightened it now there is a puddle of oil from my bike on the ground. im not quite sure where the leak is from but im pretty sure its coming from the shaft that the shifter goes on to. is there a seal or gasket there that i might have broken? if not what do you think the problem is?
 
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#2
did you apply any heat near or on the shaft latley? there is a seal keeping the oil from leaking. It's probably busted. Good thing is you can get it out without splitting the cases.(not a very hard job.) Some kid near my place came to me for help this summer, he had a similar problem, he had his shift lever welded to the shaft... and he couldn't understand why there was a puddle of oil on his garrage floor...
 
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#3
i didnt have any heat at all near it. I think it may have stopped leaking. oh well one more thing to fix this winter
 
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#5
i just put the shifter back on and it seems the shaft that the shifter slides onto is where the leak is coming from. it looks like the shaft is kind of bent at a downward angle, could this be the problem? is it supposed to be perfectly straight? If so about how mucjh ya thinks a new shaft would be?
 
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#7
if the shaft is bent, then you can be sure that it's the cause of your problem. Check out the kawasaki site, they have all the microfiches listed on the site as well as the prices for each part. You'll have to get a new shaft and seal(should not be TOO expensive). Only thing is that you'll have to split the cases to replace the shaft. Get a good set of tools and a shop mannual.
 

jdbrusch

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#9
You do not have to split the cases on the KDX to replace the shift shaft.You will have to remove the right side cover also the clutch and the shaft will slide out.If it is bent to much at the shifter mount to slide thru the case you may have to cut the end off. :thumb:
 
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#11
splitting the cases is not difficult at all if you have the basic tools and knoledge. jdbrusch is right, you don't have to split the case to replace the shift shaft. I got mixed up(for some reason, I was thinking of the shaft on wich the shift forks slide as I was replying...).(Had a very long day yesterday...) The only thing that might be hard is getting the shaft to slide out. The site I was refering to is the kawasaki site. www.kawasaki.com
 
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#13
hey jd can you give me a little more detail about doing this or send me an email describing this? thank you very much henriksen1987@yahoo.com
 

jdbrusch

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#14
Ok here we go,you will have to remove the kick starter,the rear brake pedal drain the antifreeze and disconnect the kips lever attached to the top or the rod,remember this is a left hand thread,has a arrow on top of the lever on which way to loosen,make sure you also support the shaft by inserting small rod into the hole in the kips lever shaft or hold it with a good pair of pliers,failure to do so can snap of the rod in the advancer assembly and ruin your day,do this when installing the nut also.Remove the lower front coolant hose and all the case bolts.Now you may have noticed I left the clutch cable for last simply because you can now pull the clutch lever before removing the cable and the case should pop loose,saves trying to pry or jimmy it up,now remove the clutch cable.The hard part is to remove the clutch assembly,you can remove the clutch as one unit by removing the inner nut,you will have to find a way to prevent the tranny from spinning over to do this,if you have the chain still on replace the rear brake pedal and hold on the rear brake and try to remove the nut(counterclockwise).If this does not work you can fabricate up a flywheel holder with a piece of flatbar with two bolts sticking out(should look something like this I____I_____ ,hope that helped ) that can be inserted into the two outer holes on the flywheel,make sure the bolts do not stick to far into the flywheel and damage the windings.Just rest the end of the bar against the case protector on the frame.Once the clutch is off and the shift pedal is removed the shaft should slide out,as long as the end is not to badly bent.If it is badly bent,do not try to force it thru it will most likey damage the surface the shaft uses as a bearing in the case you might have to cut it off. You may have to remove the idler gear also,I can't remember off hand if there is enough clearance to get the shaft by.Reassembly is fairly simply the reverse, new case gasket and shaft seal will likely be required,just make sure you have the waterpump drive gear lined up with the primary gear.And remember to support the kips shaft when installing the nut.If you need torque specs,reply so again and I will list them for you.Good luck :thumb:
James..