Lifan 125 valve adjustment

[Wolf]

So I was doing the valves on our SDG 125...the motor is a lifan
Question: I think I got the top valve done correctly...set it at .004. I ran into some trouble at the bottom...I coud not move the valve at all and was not able to get a feeler gage inthere at all. I thought I was just having a "me" moment, so I backed the valve adjustment screw out a 1/4 turn from where I perceived it to be fully closed and set it like that. I then proceeded to try and start the bike....had smoke coiming out of the air filter when it fired, it rand briefly and then it died and I couldn't restart it. So I realize I have to do it again and figure out a way to do the bottom properly. I just don't get how I was not able to detect any movement at all at the bottom valvle...also...is .004 a decent setting or do I need to go to .003 ??
I need new feeler gages as well...broke what I had :yell:

 

[Wolf]

not sure if it has anything to do with it but it kicked back at me as well when trying to kick it over

 

[helio lucas]

wolf,
0.05 mm for the intake and exhaust works good and is recomended for many honda and copies engines.
you must feel some movement. if you cannot work with the feeler gauge just adjust until you feel some. up and down, not side to side.

just remember while you are adjusting the valves you must turn the engine to TDC to get both valves on they´re seats :cool:

 

[Patman]

Wolf your .004 is fine but a lot of folks have problems getting the timing marks lined up correctly. If I am not mistaken there are two marks on the flywheel? Are you sure of the mark in the case you are aligning it with? Sometimes a little tick sometimes a little point. I always set both at .004 which was a touch loose but not a big deal, using the wrong mark IS a big deal and it sounds like that might be your problem. I'll dig around and see if I can't turn up some instructions for a play by play on it for ya'.

 

[Patman]

Wolf you have a PM

 

[brentoncole]

make sure you have the proper size sockets and a wrench and i found the best way to adjust the valves is when the opposite valve is at the most open point so the valve you want to adjust is completely closed

 

[Wolf]

Thanks for the help...got your pm too Patman. Won't get to it until tomorrow.

 

[Wolf]

Hey crew...more questions....
I have two marks on the FW...an F and a T...the F is to the left of the T. Problem. I can not get the T aligned with the mark on the case without holding it. It naturally wants to move back a little so the mark on the case is right between the 2 letters. If I spin the FW 360 degrees it is impossible to get even close. I looked through the spark plug hole and it looks like the piston is TDC...well maybe slightly past. Looking at the valves, they seem to be open the most when I have the FW aligned right between the 2 marks on the FW...I can certainly have some one hold the FW in position where the T matches the mark on the case and adjust the valves to that, just seems a little weird that I can't get it lined up.

 

[Patman]

Make sure it has not slipped on the crank. Look at the keyway.

 

[Wolf]

hmm...sorry, I'm not sure I understand that one...???

 

[Patman]

Not a huge possibility but given the description of your troubles it's worth looking in to. Given the lack of quality of the steel used to manufacture a lot of the parts these tend to shear.

 

[exverse]

i would say first of all check your timing chain from the crank to the cam... first of all make sure those are lined up, next make sure you cam gear the notch is facing forward tword the alignment mark, then pop your valve covors and adjust your valves to .003 or .004 if your within those ranges you should be fine. after reading your post i went out this morning pulled my bike apart cuz it was sputtering at high rpm bad and the intake valve was bottomd out.... remember .003 or .004 between the valve and rocker.. im not saying you didnt already know this or anything im just giving you my precedure i did today and worked wounders.

oh yea when you remove the front cam covor make sure you have the oil drained a bit or have the bike rested so the oils at the back of the motor.

 

[Wolf]

oh...I get it...I will look at that. when setting the vavlves, at TDC, they should be open the furthest...right? as in I set the gap at .004 and that should be as far as they open, ever....right?

 

[exverse]

yes you dont want to be on compression stroke... if you pull off the cam chain plate you will see when the marks line up adjust your valves to that.

 

[exverse]

but the think i dont get is the 50cc motor adjustments are intake: .005 exhaust: .008 i think im going try .003 and .005 in a minute

 

[Wolf]

what marks have yo line up? I had the cam chain plate off...the dot on the wheel at about 10 o'clock...the valves are movable and set at .004. I fired it up with that setting...took many kicks, and popped like crazy. The FW was on the F mark, not the T mark when I set it....If I try to get the T mark aligned with the mark in the case, the valves won't move at all...this thing is driving me insane. I'm starting over.

So the T mark has to line up with the marking in the casing...there is only one way I can get that. If I line it up correctly (without paying attention to the cam chain wheel) the valves do not move at all.

 

[exverse]

i have a inner rotar kit i dont exatly remember the markings on the mag but i know the sprocket on the cam the marking should be lined up with the mark on the case at about 9 o'clock

 

[exverse]

So the T mark has to line up with the marking in the casing...there is only one way I can get that. If I line it up correctly (without paying attention to the cam chain wheel) the valves do not move at all.

then you need to adjust them to .004 from the t being lined up

 

[exverse]

one question has this motor been torn into recently?
if so i would make sure your timing chain on your crank is matched with your cam, with your cam gear being at the notch on your head and your flywheel at T

 

[Wolf]

no, the motor hasn't been touched. If I line up the cam chain wheel, I have to have someone hold the FW in position to line it up with the T....can that be?? If I spin it 360 it's no problem to line up the T, but the mark on the cam chain wheel is then at 3 o clock....I just wanna throw this thing and by another motor :bang:

 

[exverse]

i would are you lining the t up with the notch at the top of your case?

 

[exverse]

here this should work watch this video the motors are pretty much the same other then you have to pull off the stator covor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xkXQi_aPuw

 

[Wolf]

thanks for that video...

 

[Wolf]

I set the valves at ,004 on the intake, and .005 in the exhaust. Bike started up right away, then back fired like crazy...if I give it some gas it bogs way down, then dies. This is quite frustrating...I wonder if I have other problems....this is quite frustrating. Starting to think a new motor might be a lot more fun....

 

[Patman]

Sounds like maybe the carb needs a good cleaning? If you need a new one I've got several different new ones in my crate of mini parts.