New Bike!! 1979 Husky OR 250

[TVRider]

I stepped in front of the moving train (wife) and bought a Husky last night. It turns out a guy 5 miles from me has a barn full of them. He didn't want to sell this one, but I talked him into it. It was raced in the ISDT at St. Joe State Park in Missouri last year. He loaned it to a friend for the event. Before it ran the event, the replaced the chain and sprokets, Carb intake boot, new air filter, brake cable and grips. The tank is a little worn and has some scratches but no dents, it could be brought back to like new pretty easily. This bike is ready to race!! :yeehaw:

So...any suggestions about improvement I can make or problems with this particular bike. Where can I get correct fender? It needs front and rear. What can you tell me about the OR 250. Is it a close ratio trans? Does it have the ability to add lights? One odd thing was the forks were super long! They extended above the top triple clamp about 4-5" and the bike seemed to sit pretty normal like that. What's up with that? Any ideas?

This guy also had a mid 70's 430, but claimed this particular 250 was almost as fast. I tried to start the 430 and all it did was wear me out. I decided that with the better suspension, the 250 was the better bike for me.

I'll post a picture as soon as I get one. Thanks for you input :thumb:

Tom

 

[Oregon Trail]

The 430 started in 1981, so it was either not a 430 or later bike. I've looked at a bunch of Husky's and noticed a lot of guys will tell you one thing and the bike is really something else. Now when I go look at Husky's I take the Model ID sheet with me so I know what I'm really looking at. One of my race buddies has a 79 WR250 and uses it for MX. Here's what we did to inprove it for MX; smaller CR125 tank, took off spark arrestor and used silencer instead and 40mm forks. If you plan on MXing it hard, those 35mm forks will flex. He had 4-5" with the 35mm's above the triples or the bike rode front high. The fenders are availible on E-bay. Is it a WR or OR? I think the WR & OR difference is lights from factory, but I've been wrong before.

OR - WR gears, cr motor, wr sus
WR - Wide ratio - usually has lights after 1980, but always has lighting coils
CR - Close Ratio, motocross model

 

[TVRider]

Sorry, the other bike was a 450 not a 430.

This bike says 250 OR on the engine side cover and the seriall number (2157) is past the range for '79 WR's (2066). I'll probably do some CC but no MX and some trailriding.

I'm going to ride it a little this afternoon, the test ride yesterday was in slacks, dress shoes and no helmet :o Anyway, beside being stupid I found out it is seriously fast compared to my 03 KDX200, or at least it seemed that way. I'm also going to take another stab at starting the 450 and I'll check serial numbers on it. Thanks for your help!

 

[Oregon Trail]

Does the 450 have a Bing carb? If so 'tickle' it. I have a 450 and you have to put everything into it. They are fast, but a beast to hold onto. :aj: Not a great Harescrambles bike, unless vibration is your game. The 250 is a good woods bike, at least here in Oregon with tight trails and steep hills. You'll like the Husky. I keep trying other bikes, but end up back on a Husky.

 

[Norman Foley]

Welcome to the Husky Habit. It should be a good bike, 250 is mellower than the 390 of that vintage. OR stands for "optimal ratio". In the eighties this became the XC. A mix of wide and close ratio gearing with desert racing in mind. I'm no expert, but it should have a lighting coil. Back in the late seventies many Northeast dealers sold more ORs than WRs because of the gear spacings(easier to keep on the pipe with a higher top speed than a CR). I may also be wrong, but I thought ORs had CR suspension(long travel for high speed desert whoops) not WR suspension. The later model 40mm forks would be an improvement. Vintage Iron and AMS have repro fenders. UFO universal front and enduro rear with light work well on a rider. You need to get a street plate for it and come to the ISDT RR in Dalton, MA this October!
Norman

 

[80Husky]

Great...I have an 80 250 OR and just love it. Check Halls Husqvarna for parts.

 

[TVRider]

I have been out of town this weekend, thanks for the replys. I rode the 450 Friday (it's a '72, not sure what model). It's in really nice shape. All it needs is a pair of rear shocks that work a little better. I was suprised how it rode. It was slow to rev but very fast once it got going. I expected more torque down low. The 250 seemed faster off the bottom, but ran out of power a little quicker. Is this pretty typical? How should the 450 run? You couldn't just wick it off the bottom and pull the front wheel, it had to be up in the revs.
It does have a bing carb, what do you mean tickle it? Do many people change the carb to a mikuni to improve performance? The guy said he changed the cylinder head to lower compression a little, to make it easier to start, maybe that's why the performance isn't there.

Thanks for the input on the 250. When I rode it friday, the suspension seemed a little soft. I'm only 175, so that kinda surprised me. Since I don't have any experience with these bikes I didn't know what to expect. The only thing I have to compare it to is my KDX and it was WAY softer than that. I'll check the websites you mentioned. I look forward to riding it more extensively. Any other input or discussion would be great, I'm like a sponge right now, I want to know more :worship:

 

[Oregon Trail]

On the Bing there should be a black button you 'tickle' until it trickles out fuel. My 450 has great bottom end and will wheelie when throttle wicked with my Bing. Some guys like to change the Bing to a Mikuni, maybe since they have Mikuni's on other bikes and think they can tune them easier. THe Bing is a fine carb with parts still avaible.

Part #34 is the tickler. Carb may need to be cleaned. What is the deal with changing the head for less compression? Did he put a head gasket on, those motor had no head gasket. I'd find what he did, yopu may just be able to get an old head. The think I don't like about the 72 motor is the tapered front sprocket, you have to get it red hot to get it off. :think:

 

[TVRider]

OK, we were tickling it, I just didn't know the terminology. He said he changed (machined) the cylinder dome to reduce compression. Probably not a good thing. I didn't have a chance to ride it much because every time it was reved, the vibration made the petcock rotate closed!! :confused: It took a plug, some gas and head scratching to figure that one out. Thanks for the input.

Tom

 

[Oregon Trail]

Oh yea, the 450 vibrates alot too! As James Bond would say ' Shaken, not stirred'. :laugh:

 

[Dirtvet]

Welcome to Husky lovers! They are beautiful bikes aren't they? I'm new to the brand myself.

Be aware that with all that vibration comes loose bolts. My '72 CR 450 vibrates so much, my hands are numb after a moto and the very bottom engine bolt loosen. I've been told to WATCH that one - it can cause real problems with your frame if it is ever allowed to stay loose.

Mikuni carbs are no saviors - my bike is also very hard to start when cold. When hot, it is either 2-3 kicks or 20. I'm still sorting the jetting out. I bought the bike this way, but have the original Bing. The bike has NO rev on top, decent low/mid power. It is a slug off the starting line, where I get pulled by 250's. I'm leaning the main and clip one step at a time however, and it is improving it. I may refit the Bing and see what that's like.

Good luck with the bike you choose!

 

[Oregon Trail]

Tommygun, try 1 1/8" bars, will help alot with numbness due to vibration. I run CR highbend with 10mm extra rise on the bar mounts with stock 450's triples. ;)

 

[TVRider]

Ok, so where do I go or who do I talk to about making this bike faster. I guess I should call Hall's Husky, Vintage Iron and AMS and just start asking quetions? Will an aftermarket pipe and silencer help? I don't really want to open up the motor as it seems to run pretty well now. Somebody mentioned "if it works, leave it alone". Are the PVL ignitions for reliability or will they improve power through a better spark? Thanks for all the replys.

Tom

 

[COLEMANAPP]

I'd call Halls or maybe even Donelson Cycles in St. Louis. You also have letcko competition cycles in KC. If you get the Husky habit ( we also have 4 Huskies in the barn at our farm, regular riders but late 80's models), you might as well join at Huskyclub.com Good information, monthly newsletter with alot of classifieds you don't see on the website. The PVL ignition system is for when your electrical system goes bad and you can't find the replacement parts you need if just one part of it goes bad. I noticed the bike starts right away, all the time, no fouled plugs, just runs alot better. Of course my ignition was going bad. Ebay always has stuff for Husqvarnas, just might take some time to find what you need. We will be taking all 4 Huskies to Chadwick, MO this summer. Probably not too far from you. They perform well in that environment. Good luck with the new bike.

 

[Oregon Trail]

TVrider, (we're talking about the 250 OR) you say you want to make it faster, but you say it runs pretty well. :think: I wouldn't bother with the PVL until you damage your ignition, heck I still run points on my 250 & 450 and they start right up. I wouldn't bother with the pipe either, maybe the silencer to open it up a little, it helped when we took off the giant spark arrestor on my buddys WR. I'd check the rings and reeds and make sure they are good too. What ignition are you running now, Motoplat, SEM or Femsa? Is it lacking top end or bottom end since you want to make it faster?

 

[TVRider]

It does run pretty well, I'm just in this mode right now where I want more power. I've only been back into the bikes for less than a year after a 20 year layoff. The KDX was fast and scary to me when I first got it, now it seems pretty laid back even with several mods. I'm just thinking the 250OR will start feeling that way soon as well. I guess that's why I went back to ride the '72 450, I was hoping it would be more of a beast! That way I could have it for those fun rides where I wanted to scare myself a little. I also am in the enviable position where I can afford to do pretty much what I want (within reason) and I like to work on a bike and get the satisfaction of improved performance. Maybe I should concentrate on the suspension instead of the power? I'm not sure what ignition I'm running, I'll check and get back to you. The other thing is I get obsessed with this stuff and I just want to know more! I've read the posts in the form all the way back to the beginning of 2001.

The silencer on the bike now has a pretty big opening and you can see rows of what I would call wire arches running down the length of the tube. Does that sound like a stock silencer? What silencer would you recommend?

 

[COLEMANAPP]

I might have an extensive service manual for your year of bike. I have looked all over this thing for the year but there is no publish date. There is a photo of a motorcycle that may help determine what year it is. Since my oldest bikes are 87's, it does me no good. PM me and I can send a photo of the manual and pic of the bike if interested. My brother actually owns that manual but was planning on selling it on ebay. He got it along with a box of parts from a recent purchase of his 87 Husky 250 on this site. For $750, he got a fantastic bike in original condition. Which brings me to another point. If you get enough Huskies of different sizes, it'll keep you from getting bored with one bike.

 

[TVRider]

I sent you a PM. I have a feeling that is exactly what will happen since about 8 months ago all I had was my original '75 TY175. I also have a couple bikes not listed in my signature line.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Dirtvet]

I have found there are nearly as many things you can spend your money on for an old beat up Husky as with a modern bike, except graphics. My wife has found out. Here are a few:

1. Hot Rod Husky billet triple clamps. These are lighter than the steel units, have less trail and look trick. Helps with the turning! ($400)

2. Uni or twin air filter. ($25)

3. PVL ignition ($400)

4. Billet Bar risers - Applied tall risers ($50) and renthal vintage bars

5. Plastic fenders (various)

6. Shoulderless Excel rims w/stainless steel spokes - lighter, don't pack with mud($$$)

7. Progressive ($), Works ($$) or Ohlins ($$$) shocks

8. New brake shoes & cables!! ($100)

The best though is a good paint job. It MAKES you look faster. It's a built in excuse for coming in last when you say, "it is too pretty to race, and I didn't want to fall". Of course in the heat of a moto, it's really "just win, baby".

 

[TVRider]

That's only about $2500 worth (gulp!). I hate to add it up like that because it makes me feel bad about my habits! :laugh: I could just go buy THIS

What do you think?

 

[Oregon Trail]

TVRider, with the 79 Husky you don't need triples (already aluminum), PVL, shoulderless wheels (already) or risers. You should have plenty of motor as long as it's fresh. Make sure the Ohlins are good (stockers) or pick up some Works Performance. But if you are opening up the vault, that's a different story. Why not also port and polish, get a Alloy swingarm, put some Fox or Simons forks on, lighten the crank, Mossberg (spelling?) reed cage, smaller alloy tank, and pipe. Or send me the cash and spend it for you! :laugh: Have you decided on the 450?

 

[TVRider]

OT,

Where do I start? I talked to Vintage Iron and one of the guys there said the '72 450 was a POS. :uh: It was a bike built for the desert but even the desert riders didn't like. He said it was the Husky version of the TM400 (whatever that means, I guess it's bad). So the 450 is out.

Regarding the 250, I called Bob Ginder at B&J Racing in TN. I know him from Vintage Trials and he is working on the pipe for my TY250. He also ported my TY with amazing results! I asked him about Husky and he said has a beautiful 78 250 OR but wants over $2000 for it. He is going to bring it to our vintage trials event in Casey, IL this weekend. He told me he would be happy to go through the motor on my 250, but a complete rebuild including porting would be around $1500. I'm not sure I want to put that kind of money into a $900 bike! He is good, but he's not cheap. He also mentioned he is more of a Maico guy, nothing against the Huskys, he just preferrs Maico. So I may see what he has along the lines of a Maico. He also has a 75 KTM 250 that he said is a Blast! to ride. I may look at that when I'm down at his shop late next week. I'm going to take my 250 OR with me to let him look at.

By the way, I spotted THIS on Ebay. Is it a decent price on the buy it now? I'm not going to buy it, just drooling and trying to get a handle on the market.

Thanks for the input, I'll keep you updated. :thumb:

Tom

 

[Oregon Trail]

TVRider, If you can get the 450 for cheap, under $400, I'd get it just to mess around on. It IS a beast, but you can race it like a 4-stroke. 5 laps is enough on it, no cross-country though. The early TM400, know as the Cyclone (orange version) had a powerband problem, you never knew when it was coming on. Check THIS out. OK, back to the 250 OR, just make sure rings are good and suspension working well. That bike should have plenty of engine. My buddy races against Maicos, Honda CR's and the like and the Husky is competive. I'm not sure why you think you need engine work? Maybe just a freshen up, like any old 2-stroke. Also those engines are so easy to work on, you could do most of it yourself. :thumb:

 

[TVRider]

I talked to the guy I bought the 250 from, and he said he has a 74 400 WR that he is currently rebuilding. This guy has Huskys everywhere! The article you pointed me to by Rick Siemen rated that bike 9 *'s. The frame is painted but nothing else. He is willing to sell that when he's done, but doesn't know what he'll have in it yet. He thinks he also has a couple other 400's that are original but not complete. He talked like he would sell one of those for $400-$500 and he would rebuild the motor if I would pay for parts. That's starting to sound interesting.

Regarding the 250 OR that I bought, he said it has a Motoplat ignition. When I asked about the latest engine work, he didn't know but thought that as good as it runs it probably at least has fresh rings. He has been through the entire bike but never touched the engine 'cause it ran so good. The shocks are the original Ohlins that he rebuilt. They feel a little soft on compression but the rebound seems pretty good. The fork seals are leaking just a little, but he recommended just riding it for a while and not mess with them.

Are all the Huskey kickstarters bent? When I kick it left footed, my boot wants to slip right off because of the angle when it reaches the bottom of the stroke. If I kick it right footed the angle doesn't seem to be much of a factor. He wasn't sure about that but offered to take the kick starter off any of the other 3 250's he has of the vintage and give it to me in exchange. I'll keep you posted after my first long ride tomorrow evening.

Tom

 

[Oregon Trail]

The 400 were supposed to be better, but the only 400 I rode was a right shift and took some getting used to but was nimble. That kinda sounds right about the kicker, just a Husky thing you get used to. I like to buy my Huskys cheap since I always have to set them up for my style anyway (if you want to call it style :laugh: ). I usually have a few project going to. Right now I'm working on 72, 76 & 79 250 engines while the weathers good. I'm experimenting with clutches and trannys. Try pushing (riding hard) the 250 OR and see how it does, those engine are pretty good stock. On the fork seals, I run 2 pair, with the top pair upside as wippers, Oregon get a little muddy :eek: .