New Bike Greasing - How to Clean First?

Smit-Dog · May 13, 2002

I've read all the posts here relating to re-greasing the steering head and rear linkage bearings on a new bike. Like a good son, I'm taking everyone's advice and will do it this weekend before I start putting some hard miles on the bike. I have a few questions that I did not find answered in any of the greasing posts.

Question #1: Should I clean/remove all the existing grease from the steering head and rear linkage bearings? If so how? Just take a rag and wipe? Flush/soak with some type of cleaner (Brake Kleener?). Keep in mind that the bike only has 4 miles on it.

Question #2: I've read not to mix grease types, but I figure that since reportedly the bike comes with very little grease, it won't matter. BTW, I plan on using some marine-type bearing grease from Penzoil. Will this work fine for both ends of the bike?

Question #3: The manual says to use a special wrench to remove the steering head bolt (or something related). Is this special wrench really required, or can I use the standard set of tools most regular weekend mechanics have?

Question #4: I've ordered the shop manual, but it hasn't arrived yet. Should I tackle this job before I have the manual to refer to? Or should I just start taking things apart, relying on intuition and common sense to guide me?

Thanks!

- Bill

canyncarvr · May 13, 2002

Consider the following to be in keeping with the 'correct' way to do stuff. Maybe not the way it's usually done, but still generally considered to be 'right'.

1. Yes. Brake Clean works great! The bottom steering stem as an example......you can't get the bearing off the stem. It's not like soaking the entire suspension knuckle in some degreaser. 'Just wiping' isn't going to be effective.

2. Mixing grease isn't ever a good idea. Maybe won't be a problem most of the time, but it might SOME of the time. Why tempt fate? Penzoil waterproof? Never seen it. Use the best grease you can get your hands on. The 'marine-type' sounds good....but then, so does 'general purpose multi-use chassis/wheel bearing' grease. And the latter is crappola (for the use we're talking about).

3. Most any spanner will work. That said, you don't need a 'speshul tool'. A brass drift (or punch or old screwdriver ;) ) and a hammer will work just fine. The assy is tightened barely more than finger tight on assy, so you don't need to 'wrench' on it! (BTW, you're familiar with tapered roller bearing put-togethers? How to?)

4. Common sense and intuition are sufficient. IF you're likely to do something like take the suspension apart while the bike is securely resting on the kickstand....well, you might wait for the manual...and then take them BOTH to your nearest bike mech!! ;)

Piece-o-cake! Grease that puppy up!!

CO Dan · May 13, 2002

Smit-dog,

I use Belray waterproof grease, which was recommended by my dealer, for ever greaseable place on my bikes. When I tear things down it always seems in good shape.

I also use BrakeCleen & paper towels to degrease.

gooby · May 13, 2002

i use belray too ,i clean them good and use the air compressor, easy u don't need it cranked up to dry em then put er back the way u found it .left over parts is bad lol

Smit-Dog · May 13, 2002

I originally bought the Pennzoil marine "premium plus" grease for the EZ lube hubs on my trailer.

Descripton on tube is "multi-purpose, marine saltwater protection, washout and corrosion protection, NLGI grade #2 grease". The spec sheet is here: http://www.pennzoil.com/TechData/pd...e/pdf/PremiumPlusMultipurposeMarineGrease.PDF

Looks like pretty decent stuff considering that the linkage and steering head bearings are not intense, high heat applications like wheel bearings.

The shop manual is on back order, but I printed out the parts diagrams from the Kawasaki web site, so I'll tackle it this weekend.

Thanks for everyone's feedback!

- Bill

Fred T · May 14, 2002

Smit-dog

1. Use brake cleaner or kerosene to clean out the old grease. Be sure to clean and grease the seals too.
2. I use the Autozone grease with MOLY.
3.Punch or channel locks will take it off. Don't tighten it too much at reassembly or you'll eat the bearings quick. (I did that the first time I think)
4. Reassembly is easy, be sure to line everything back up in the linkage before torquing it down.

I'm doing mine this week as well. I try to do it about every 300-400 miles.

Smit-Dog · May 14, 2002

Thanks again everyone for your tips. Hopefully I'll be able to return the favor by helping someone else out (once I get the experience and knowledge, that is!).

Based in part on all the time and money saving tips I've found on this forum, I sent in $$ to contribute as a lifetime support member.

See you all at TrailFest III!

- Bill

New Bike Greasing - How to Clean First?

Smit-Dog

canyncarvr

CO Dan

gooby

Smit-Dog

Fred T

Smit-Dog

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