new clutch cable wont adjust!
- Thread starter LVRIDA
- Start date
rm_racer
Member
- Mar 15, 2005
- 501
- 0
If you cant adjust it from the clutch perch, try adjusting it at the adjuster in the middle of the cable. If theres one on there it shoukd be closer to the bar end of the cable then the case end of the cable. If you have tryed this already, then, well, I dunno... Im not good with clutches, mine sucks.
I had the same thing happen to my YZ 250...a 97 model. The cables (factory and motion pro) appear too long.
You can make a spacer to take up slack where the cable connects to the engine on the left side. This works well.
The real cure was to find a 2.5 mm spacer to go on the end of the clutch push rod. This is the real problem. The pushrod is too short. If you go to the clutch diagram here http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx And go to the clutch section on the 98 yz 250, you'll see what I am talking about.
A 2.5 mm thick shim goes into piece 19, then is assembeled normally. The clutch works a lot better now.
I used a valve adjustment shim from the 250f series 4 strokes.
You would actually be better off with worn friction plates. This would let the clutch move more to the center of the bike.
You can make a spacer to take up slack where the cable connects to the engine on the left side. This works well.
The real cure was to find a 2.5 mm spacer to go on the end of the clutch push rod. This is the real problem. The pushrod is too short. If you go to the clutch diagram here http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx And go to the clutch section on the 98 yz 250, you'll see what I am talking about.
A 2.5 mm thick shim goes into piece 19, then is assembeled normally. The clutch works a lot better now.
I used a valve adjustment shim from the 250f series 4 strokes.
You would actually be better off with worn friction plates. This would let the clutch move more to the center of the bike.
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Older Yamahas have an interrnal adjustment of the push rod. The clutch arm on the engine, which the cable moves, has a pointer, which is supposed to allign with a mark on the top of the engine case. You drain the trans oil, then push the arm forward by hand after removing the side cover and loosening the locknut. Then you usea screwdriver to turn the push rod in until the pointer and mark line up. Oh yeah, first turn all of you adjustments all the way in to release tension.
When you're done, tighten the locknut. ad oil and replace the cover. Fine tuning is done with the adjustmentsa in the cabl;e and lever.
When you're done, tighten the locknut. ad oil and replace the cover. Fine tuning is done with the adjustmentsa in the cabl;e and lever.
