Newest Formula Mobil 1 15W-50: Use it or not?

[biglou]

I've been looking for the thread that brought this up, but I can't find it. It seems like I remember reading that the latest formula of the Mobil 1 15W-50 (red cap) with the "SuperSyn" blend was still OK to use in the big four strokes. I am well past the break-in now on the 426. Been using Yamalube 4 since day one. Prolly got 10 tanks of gas through it and about 4-5 oil changes and am looking to make the jump to full synth. Give me your thoughts, long or short. I'm all ears. Even a simple "yeah" or "nay" will suffice if any of you want to take the time to add your $.02. Thanks.

 

[Sawblade]

Lou,
By no mean's do I keep up with the "oil war's", but after reading about Rich and Eric from a tread in Advanced Technology & Engineering section I was prompted to do a search on the net to see what articles were out their that either one of them wrote. Here is a link to one by Rich. Hope this steers you in the right direction.

http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/mototech_june_1999.htm

 

[bigred455]

I just took a look at mobil 1 web site.Their new super synthetic oil has a SL rating (rich). :confused: that is the only thing I could pick out that was different.I wonder if it has even lower levels of zinc and phosphorous.From what I understand, higher levels of zinc and phosphorous(specific motorcycle oils)only do their job when you have metal to metal contact.I also noticed they have a new 0w-40 oil(AUTO), amsoil has one too,but for motorcycles.The mobil 0w-40 is suppose to be for european models. These oil selections are getting out of hand.. :eek: ARE YOU GUYS STOKED I AM STOKED. :scream: :scream:

 

[tcdarr]

SL GF-3 oils are formulated with ashless dispersants that are designed to suspend contaminates such as soot, unburnt fuel, etc.. in suspension for the life of the oil drain. These same compounds can cause micropitting and gear spawling in bikes with gearboxes that share a common sump with the engine. They also tend to not shift as well as oils formulated for wet clutch applications.

 

[bsmith]

SL GF-3 ashless dispersants micropitting and gear spawling :think: :think: :think:

I use a Castrol semi synthetic ;) if that helps, yet it is still around $7-8

 

[Rich Rohrich]

Originally posted by tcdarr
SL GF-3 oils are formulated with ashless dispersants that are designed to suspend contaminates such as soot, unburnt fuel, etc.. in suspension for the life of the oil drain. These same compounds can cause micropitting and gear spawling in bikes with gearboxes that share a common sump with the engine. They also tend to not shift as well as oils formulated for wet clutch applications.

Care to provide anything other than your "good word" to back that up????????

 

[skthom2320]

Look at this page - food for thought.

http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

 

[DC3PIC]

I've used Yamalube 4-R since new (about 8 oil changes) and then I switched to Mobil 1 15W-50 for the last 3 oil changed and I've had no bad come of it. The last 2 oil changes were with the new "Super-Syn"(I assumed the new bottle was merely a marketing ploy).

 

[yota]

I have heard that the new formula has friction modifiers which can cause the clutch to slip. There was much discussion on this on thumpertalk.com. I believe Sunruh, who was the greatest believer in the product has stopped using it for this reason.

 

[zio]

I swear, since reading the initial debate a year or two ago, I've been unsure everytime I go to buy oil. Honestly, I wish some marketing guy would throw a "GOOD FOR YOUR KTM, ZIO" tag somewhere on the bottle so I could go on with worrying about the runs I got after eating a bag of WOW Doritos with Olestra.

I've been using it anyway, and my CR & kTm don't complain. Why is it that none of us have any uncertainty when we buy a bottle of BelRay GearSaver off the dealer's shelf, yet we read Einstein's posts over and over (at least I do) and still don't completely trust it?

I wish I had a donor bike, I'd try running vaseline in it. It is, afterall, petroleum based. If I could just figure a way to get it flushed out for changing time. Rich, any suggestions?

 

[Lobster]

I gave up trying to keep up with Mobil1's "changes" and "improvements". I switched to Amsoil MC oil. I'm running 20w50 in my DR and it went the last 4 motard races without any signs of breaking down or anything. I'm gonna pull it and send it off for an oil analysis before the ice season begins. I'll probably have to switch to a lighter weight so it starts when there is no degrees out!

 

[Thump]

I'll run the Mobil 15w50 till Rich tells me not to.

 

[cujet]

I have only had an oil related failure once, on a two stroke using a brand of oil known for promoting corrosion and intolerant of any water in the gas. Even the air cooled 4 strokes ran fine and lasted for years on cheap auto oil with regular oil changes. Some of which are 20+ years old now and still running well!

That said, as a former Mobil employee, I use and trust Mobil's synthetic products.

Chris

 

[SoderholmD]

Put my vote in for the "Red cap" mobile. I run it in my Cr 265 and also my VFR 800. Both run absolutely perfect. No problems whatsoever.

NF 9-11-01