Anybody know a good trick for attaching the master link of an o-ring chain? This is the kind that you spread the ends of the link legs, not the kind you hold on with a clip. With my timing chain, I spread the end with a punch, but the chain has to be on the bike when you attach the master link so I can't use a punch. Thanks.
O-ring chain master link
- Thread starter Succubus
- Start date
I hate riveted master links. I know that mfgs are mounting them up to higher rpm bikes, and state that you need to replace with same. But, they are making recommendations using the "dummy factor". It is easy for a person to mount up a clip type master with the clip on backwards...or to re-use a clip that has been slightly sprung...either of which is a bad situation.
And so you won't hose up and become a dummy, they recommend you use a rivet type master.
Thing is..folks can hose them up too. And, it makes taking the chain off for cleaning impracticle.
Some chains give you no choice, as they provide rivet masters only.
OK...so you now have a rivet only master...you need a chain staking tool.
http://motionpro.com/parts/tools/product/chain_breaker_and_riveting_tool/
http://motionpro.com/parts/tools/product/jumbo_chain_tool/
Chain company's also sell them...good luck getting one fast.
Now, you can peen the pins yourself, but make sure you do a good job.
First make sure that the plate is an interference fit plate. In other words, the final plate will not simply fit over the pins easily, and needs to be pressed on. (the tools will do that, but you can use vise grips and a socket...do a search)
Once the pins are greased, the rings fitted in, and the plate pressed on snugly..you can then peen the pin heads similar to how you staked the timing chain.
Use two hammers...one a 3-4 pound sledge (or "beater" in some circles) to back up the master link while it is engaged in the rear sprocket teeth. Use a "ball peen" hammer to stake the ends of the soft pins. With a small ball peen and some patience, you can do a nice job. And if the plate was in fact an interference fit plate (most likely) then you can feel confident it won't come apart IF you peened the pins to a nice uniform mushroom.
The mass and weight of the hammer placed behind the master link will give you enough opposite force to let you peen the pin heads. Be patient and don't get in a hurry.
I highly suggest shopping for a clip type master link chain next time.
And so you won't hose up and become a dummy, they recommend you use a rivet type master.
Thing is..folks can hose them up too. And, it makes taking the chain off for cleaning impracticle.
Some chains give you no choice, as they provide rivet masters only.
OK...so you now have a rivet only master...you need a chain staking tool.
http://motionpro.com/parts/tools/product/chain_breaker_and_riveting_tool/
http://motionpro.com/parts/tools/product/jumbo_chain_tool/
Chain company's also sell them...good luck getting one fast.
Now, you can peen the pins yourself, but make sure you do a good job.
First make sure that the plate is an interference fit plate. In other words, the final plate will not simply fit over the pins easily, and needs to be pressed on. (the tools will do that, but you can use vise grips and a socket...do a search)
Once the pins are greased, the rings fitted in, and the plate pressed on snugly..you can then peen the pin heads similar to how you staked the timing chain.
Use two hammers...one a 3-4 pound sledge (or "beater" in some circles) to back up the master link while it is engaged in the rear sprocket teeth. Use a "ball peen" hammer to stake the ends of the soft pins. With a small ball peen and some patience, you can do a nice job. And if the plate was in fact an interference fit plate (most likely) then you can feel confident it won't come apart IF you peened the pins to a nice uniform mushroom.
The mass and weight of the hammer placed behind the master link will give you enough opposite force to let you peen the pin heads. Be patient and don't get in a hurry.
I highly suggest shopping for a clip type master link chain next time.
- Thread starter
- #3
I am not buying any more rivet type o-ring chains. In the meantime, however, I found a method that works ok for spreading the soft end. If you use a fuel line flaring tool with the point of the flare in the notch in the end of the rivet and put a flat wrench or piece of steel on the other side of the chain to keep the flaring tool from pushing the rivet back out, you can spread the rivet enough to keep it from coming back through the link. It's a pain, but it works. I was hoping someone knew something easier, like involving a c-clamp or vice grips or something.
Thanks, Jaybird.
Thanks, Jaybird.
