The subject of chain and sprocket maintenance does not make me angry, however folks putting out information, based on nothing more than their personal experiences, does tend to upset me. But only when the information they give makes it apparent that they have not followed standard procedure for proper chain and sprocket care. The reason it upsets me is because they state things as fact and I happen to know better. Lots of times you will get the "I've been riding for years and years and I should know" or "I'm an A class Semi-pro rider and I should know" Yes I agree....they SHOULD know, but they obviously don't.
I have buddies that feel they do everything properly, yet they don't get half the life out of their equipment as I and others do. This convinces them that they are either riding harder than others, or they have just gotten some crap equipment, when the facts are that they have neglected one or more points that make chain and sprocket longevity happen. More often than not they
1) have been using the wrong type of lubricant
2) Do not clean properly..or at all
3) (and probably the biggest mistake of all)...they are not properly adjusted!
Misalignment and improper adjustment of the chain and sprockets is the root cause for most all problems.
Aluminum sprockets today are machined from very hard aircraft grade aluminum. They will definately last as long as the chain remains within the specified pitch length. That is a fact. If you aren't seeing your aluminum sprocket last then you are definately experiencing a chain problem. Yes, other factors can come into play such as mud and contaminates, but there are tell-tale signs that will let you know if this is the case. If you see "hooking" or "pointing" of your aluminum sprocket teeth it is not because of a dirt problem. It is becasue your chain has elongated, plain and simple. A chain has a set pitch (a 520 chain is 5/8") and that pitch is exactly matched by the sprocket. When a chain is within pitch specs, it will ride comfortably in the vally between the sprocket teeth. The centerline of this area is called the "pitch circumference" of the sprocket. When a chain elongates, it takes a new path that is outside of this pitch circumference of the sprocket. When this happens, the chain will ride up on the sprocket teeth and there is less metal that comes in contact with the roller of the chain. On an aluminum sprocket, this results in the metal giving way to the forces that are being placed on the teeth. There is less metal to distribute the load at this point and deforming of the teeth takes place. If you are the type of rider who neglects to measure your chain, then an aluminum sprocket is great for letting you know when your chain has went past it's recommended pitch elongation. It is a guage for when to change your drive set out.
A hard steel sprocket, on the other hand, will not give way as easy to the force of the chain when it elongates. At this point the teeth stay consistant, but the chain has elongated in pitch. The result of this is there is accelerated wear on the chain. In other words, your hard sprocket is eating up your chain! Physics tells us that something has to absorb the energy of a mis-matched pitch, and when you use a hard steel rear sprocket, the chain will be the looser of the battle. And for this reason, hard steel sprocket MFG's can make the garantee of your sprocket lasting at least a year or more. But, ask them about the life of your chain? They could care less about your chain. They enjoy a marketing hayday at the expense of your high-dollar chains.
The fact of the matter is, if you properly measure your chain periodically, and KNOW where it is at all times, you can use ANY sprocket and it will last. As long as you change out your chain when it has stretched. Show me a sprocket that has worn out and I will show you a chain that is elongated past 1.5% of it's orginal pitch...this I garantee!
This brings me to another point...I firmly stand on the fact that you can use a standard chain of medium price range and get just as long of service of it and your sprockets as you can using the high-dolar stuff. BUT, you have to do everything right. Including cleaning, lubing, and proper adjustment.
High tensile strength is another marketing ploy. A 500cc 2-stroke will create about 2000 lbs of chain force on a good day. Why then would we need a chain that has a tensile strength that will withstand 10,000 lbs? The answer is, we don't. Tensile strength only pertains to the side plates of the links. You can have a side plate with a tensile strength of 50,000 lbs and it wont be any better than one that has a tensile strength of 4500 lbs. However, chains that do have strong side plates tend to also have very strong pins.
PINS! Now we are talking about something that matters!
Chain mfg's that produce chains with high-end pins and bushings should be your choice when looking for a superior chain. The facts are that people neglect at least one area of proper chain care means that having superior pins and bushings will help the chain to last longer than if it had a crap pins and bushings.
Adjustment, adjustment, adjustment....I can't stess it enough. Folks will think they have things adjusted properly and they won't. Then when they have sprocket wear, or chain failure, they will blame the equipment... when it could well have been bad adjustment from the get-go.
A sprocket that is only slightly out of alignment will eat up both a chain and sprocket fast, no matter what they are made of. It will also wear on the wheel bearings and CS bearings and seals. Many time a person will see a ring chain kink and have no idea why. A sprocket out of alignment will often be the reason. Just the slightest repeated side force on a chain can cause a kinking symtom.
I also saw a chain just the other day and the guy had it adjusted to what he thought was perfect specification. He indeed had about .4 inches of travel both ways from center line on the top side of his chain, BUT this measurment was taken with the bike sitting on the ground. When the shock was compressed, and the swingarm in a straight line with the two sprocket shafts, there was no longer proper chain sag. The chain was actually slightly taught at this point.
Now when the guy would jump a double, his chain was in a high stress condition, and he would be on the gas as well. This was wearing the heck out of both his sprockets and his chain, not to mention other components. He too thought aluminum sprockets were crap and couldn't withstand the brute force of his superior riding and monster powered bike. (eyeroll)
Simply following proper adjustment procedures changed his situation.
I've spent mucho time investigating the reasons for chain and sprocket failures. I make my living doing such. No, not with dirtbikes, they are a hobby of mine, and yes I do market chains, and sprockets, but this is also a hobby business of mine. My main source of groceries is to consult to manufacturers on how to properly maintain drive systems and power transmissions and the installation of such. I am used on a regular basis for the training and supervision of maintenance forces, so I have to know what I'm doing or my groceries will cease. The people I do business with are very serious about making their equipment last as long as possible, and as a result I HAVE to make certain I put out the correct info. I'm not tooting my own horn here, just letting you know that I am providing what information I have on years and years of experience and research on the subject. I have tried to provide a comprehensive guide to proper chain and sprocket care on my site. However, I am always learing, and hope to always learn. I am open to new ideas and theory's, but am totally closed to arguing with folks who can't backup their experiences with hard facts.
Sure I get defensive, but don't you when someone trys to state things that you KNOW to be bogus? I hate to guess at the man-hours I have in writing on this subject here at DRN alone....it's gotta be up there. And if anyone would care to do a search you would find that every bit of what I've said here today has already been said ad infinitum. I'm not trying to name call, or belittle anyone whatsoever. I simply would like to add my bit of knowledge to this site. I have gained so much more from it than I can ever hope to give in return. Yes, I'm hooked on dirt bikes, and always have been since 1969. I am also hooked on this place....I am a DRN addict! "Hello my name is Jaybird...." :)
OK, most places you see chain maintenance fail to go too indepth with things...
usually the reasons are becasue they are marketing a product and don't really want you to know the whole scoop...other reasons are they really just don't have a clue. Some get close, but no cigar. I have pasted a few tid-bits of info that is available on the web for you to see. Many times when you see a tutorial it will be full of information based on merely anecdotal evidence only. True, they may be close to the truth, but few ever really touch all the bases when it comes to chain and sprocket care...including chain and sprocket mfg's.
From Diamond Chain Co.: (the following information from the industrial chain section)
Symptom: Badly worn chain
and sprockets.
Reason: Chain service life is dependent upon chain quality and the
maintenance provided.
Badly worn chains don't mesh properly with sprockets and
contribute to rapid chain deterioration.
Solution: As chain wears, it lengthens. To determine if the usable
wear life of a chain has been consumed, check the elongation
of a segment of chain. It should not exceed 3% of the
nominal chain length. If elongation exceeds 3%, replace the
chain. Do not attempt to repair a section of worn chain by
adding new links - variation of pitch lengths will cause
undesirable surging during operation.
From: Martin Sprocket & Gear, Inc. :
Wear on Tips of Sprocket Teeth
Chain elongation is excessive and chain should be replaced.
Chain Climbs Sprocket
Chain does not properly fit sprocket. Check sprocket bottom diameters and replace if necessary.
Chain may be stretched more than 3%.
If sprocket worn, replace chain and sprocket or replace chain if worn.
Or "mud relief's" may be helpful.
From: Can-Am Chains, Inc. (an industrial chain supplier for conveying systems)
Sprockets - A hooked sprocket tooth will eventually hold onto the chain beyond its normal release point. The worst scenario would have the chain "wrap" the sprocket and break itself or tear up the drive. Buy new chain when the chain climbs the sprocket tooth. The pitch has elongated due to wear between the rivet and barrel and possibly elongation of the sidebar hole. The chain will continue to wear itself and the sprocket even more rapidly from this point onward.
From: Sheldon Brown of Harris Cyclery (A bicycle chain and sprocket supplier)
…When a new chain meshes with a new sprocket, every roller that is in contact with the sprocket is pressing more-or-less equally against the corresponding tooth of the sprocket, so the load and stress are shared out equally…
…The worn chain has "stretched" so that it no longer matches the original pitch of the sprocket. The sprocket has worn so as to effectively increase its pitch to match the worn chain…
…On a new sprocket tooth, the surface that the roller presses against is perpendicular to the pull of the chain. The worn teeth have become ramps, causing the chain to ride up under load…
…The rollers ride up on the sloped teeth until they reach a radius that corresponds to the longer pitch of the worn chain. The effective diameter (and thus, the effective pitch) of the sprocket has become larger, since the chain is no longer riding in the bottoms of the valleys…
…The new sprocket will wear rapidly to match the pitch of the worn-out chain…
From: Trail Rider Magazine
…Chain tightening and alignment is an important factor in getting the most life out of your chain and sprockets…
…Be advised that chain wear and sprocket wear go hand in hand…
…the service life is reduced whenever mating a new chain to used sprockets or vice versa…
From: maintenanceresourses.com
…Do not run new chain on worn sprockets, as it will cause the new chain to wear rapidly. Conversely, do not run a worn chain on new sprockets, as it will cause the new sprockets to wear rapidly…
I have buddies that feel they do everything properly, yet they don't get half the life out of their equipment as I and others do. This convinces them that they are either riding harder than others, or they have just gotten some crap equipment, when the facts are that they have neglected one or more points that make chain and sprocket longevity happen. More often than not they
1) have been using the wrong type of lubricant
2) Do not clean properly..or at all
3) (and probably the biggest mistake of all)...they are not properly adjusted!
Misalignment and improper adjustment of the chain and sprockets is the root cause for most all problems.
Aluminum sprockets today are machined from very hard aircraft grade aluminum. They will definately last as long as the chain remains within the specified pitch length. That is a fact. If you aren't seeing your aluminum sprocket last then you are definately experiencing a chain problem. Yes, other factors can come into play such as mud and contaminates, but there are tell-tale signs that will let you know if this is the case. If you see "hooking" or "pointing" of your aluminum sprocket teeth it is not because of a dirt problem. It is becasue your chain has elongated, plain and simple. A chain has a set pitch (a 520 chain is 5/8") and that pitch is exactly matched by the sprocket. When a chain is within pitch specs, it will ride comfortably in the vally between the sprocket teeth. The centerline of this area is called the "pitch circumference" of the sprocket. When a chain elongates, it takes a new path that is outside of this pitch circumference of the sprocket. When this happens, the chain will ride up on the sprocket teeth and there is less metal that comes in contact with the roller of the chain. On an aluminum sprocket, this results in the metal giving way to the forces that are being placed on the teeth. There is less metal to distribute the load at this point and deforming of the teeth takes place. If you are the type of rider who neglects to measure your chain, then an aluminum sprocket is great for letting you know when your chain has went past it's recommended pitch elongation. It is a guage for when to change your drive set out.
A hard steel sprocket, on the other hand, will not give way as easy to the force of the chain when it elongates. At this point the teeth stay consistant, but the chain has elongated in pitch. The result of this is there is accelerated wear on the chain. In other words, your hard sprocket is eating up your chain! Physics tells us that something has to absorb the energy of a mis-matched pitch, and when you use a hard steel rear sprocket, the chain will be the looser of the battle. And for this reason, hard steel sprocket MFG's can make the garantee of your sprocket lasting at least a year or more. But, ask them about the life of your chain? They could care less about your chain. They enjoy a marketing hayday at the expense of your high-dollar chains.
The fact of the matter is, if you properly measure your chain periodically, and KNOW where it is at all times, you can use ANY sprocket and it will last. As long as you change out your chain when it has stretched. Show me a sprocket that has worn out and I will show you a chain that is elongated past 1.5% of it's orginal pitch...this I garantee!
This brings me to another point...I firmly stand on the fact that you can use a standard chain of medium price range and get just as long of service of it and your sprockets as you can using the high-dolar stuff. BUT, you have to do everything right. Including cleaning, lubing, and proper adjustment.
High tensile strength is another marketing ploy. A 500cc 2-stroke will create about 2000 lbs of chain force on a good day. Why then would we need a chain that has a tensile strength that will withstand 10,000 lbs? The answer is, we don't. Tensile strength only pertains to the side plates of the links. You can have a side plate with a tensile strength of 50,000 lbs and it wont be any better than one that has a tensile strength of 4500 lbs. However, chains that do have strong side plates tend to also have very strong pins.
PINS! Now we are talking about something that matters!
Chain mfg's that produce chains with high-end pins and bushings should be your choice when looking for a superior chain. The facts are that people neglect at least one area of proper chain care means that having superior pins and bushings will help the chain to last longer than if it had a crap pins and bushings.
Adjustment, adjustment, adjustment....I can't stess it enough. Folks will think they have things adjusted properly and they won't. Then when they have sprocket wear, or chain failure, they will blame the equipment... when it could well have been bad adjustment from the get-go.
A sprocket that is only slightly out of alignment will eat up both a chain and sprocket fast, no matter what they are made of. It will also wear on the wheel bearings and CS bearings and seals. Many time a person will see a ring chain kink and have no idea why. A sprocket out of alignment will often be the reason. Just the slightest repeated side force on a chain can cause a kinking symtom.
I also saw a chain just the other day and the guy had it adjusted to what he thought was perfect specification. He indeed had about .4 inches of travel both ways from center line on the top side of his chain, BUT this measurment was taken with the bike sitting on the ground. When the shock was compressed, and the swingarm in a straight line with the two sprocket shafts, there was no longer proper chain sag. The chain was actually slightly taught at this point.
Now when the guy would jump a double, his chain was in a high stress condition, and he would be on the gas as well. This was wearing the heck out of both his sprockets and his chain, not to mention other components. He too thought aluminum sprockets were crap and couldn't withstand the brute force of his superior riding and monster powered bike. (eyeroll)
Simply following proper adjustment procedures changed his situation.
I've spent mucho time investigating the reasons for chain and sprocket failures. I make my living doing such. No, not with dirtbikes, they are a hobby of mine, and yes I do market chains, and sprockets, but this is also a hobby business of mine. My main source of groceries is to consult to manufacturers on how to properly maintain drive systems and power transmissions and the installation of such. I am used on a regular basis for the training and supervision of maintenance forces, so I have to know what I'm doing or my groceries will cease. The people I do business with are very serious about making their equipment last as long as possible, and as a result I HAVE to make certain I put out the correct info. I'm not tooting my own horn here, just letting you know that I am providing what information I have on years and years of experience and research on the subject. I have tried to provide a comprehensive guide to proper chain and sprocket care on my site. However, I am always learing, and hope to always learn. I am open to new ideas and theory's, but am totally closed to arguing with folks who can't backup their experiences with hard facts.
Sure I get defensive, but don't you when someone trys to state things that you KNOW to be bogus? I hate to guess at the man-hours I have in writing on this subject here at DRN alone....it's gotta be up there. And if anyone would care to do a search you would find that every bit of what I've said here today has already been said ad infinitum. I'm not trying to name call, or belittle anyone whatsoever. I simply would like to add my bit of knowledge to this site. I have gained so much more from it than I can ever hope to give in return. Yes, I'm hooked on dirt bikes, and always have been since 1969. I am also hooked on this place....I am a DRN addict! "Hello my name is Jaybird...." :)
OK, most places you see chain maintenance fail to go too indepth with things...
usually the reasons are becasue they are marketing a product and don't really want you to know the whole scoop...other reasons are they really just don't have a clue. Some get close, but no cigar. I have pasted a few tid-bits of info that is available on the web for you to see. Many times when you see a tutorial it will be full of information based on merely anecdotal evidence only. True, they may be close to the truth, but few ever really touch all the bases when it comes to chain and sprocket care...including chain and sprocket mfg's.
From Diamond Chain Co.: (the following information from the industrial chain section)
Symptom: Badly worn chain
and sprockets.
Reason: Chain service life is dependent upon chain quality and the
maintenance provided.
Badly worn chains don't mesh properly with sprockets and
contribute to rapid chain deterioration.
Solution: As chain wears, it lengthens. To determine if the usable
wear life of a chain has been consumed, check the elongation
of a segment of chain. It should not exceed 3% of the
nominal chain length. If elongation exceeds 3%, replace the
chain. Do not attempt to repair a section of worn chain by
adding new links - variation of pitch lengths will cause
undesirable surging during operation.
From: Martin Sprocket & Gear, Inc. :
Wear on Tips of Sprocket Teeth
Chain elongation is excessive and chain should be replaced.
Chain Climbs Sprocket
Chain does not properly fit sprocket. Check sprocket bottom diameters and replace if necessary.
Chain may be stretched more than 3%.
If sprocket worn, replace chain and sprocket or replace chain if worn.
Or "mud relief's" may be helpful.
From: Can-Am Chains, Inc. (an industrial chain supplier for conveying systems)
Sprockets - A hooked sprocket tooth will eventually hold onto the chain beyond its normal release point. The worst scenario would have the chain "wrap" the sprocket and break itself or tear up the drive. Buy new chain when the chain climbs the sprocket tooth. The pitch has elongated due to wear between the rivet and barrel and possibly elongation of the sidebar hole. The chain will continue to wear itself and the sprocket even more rapidly from this point onward.
From: Sheldon Brown of Harris Cyclery (A bicycle chain and sprocket supplier)
…When a new chain meshes with a new sprocket, every roller that is in contact with the sprocket is pressing more-or-less equally against the corresponding tooth of the sprocket, so the load and stress are shared out equally…
…The worn chain has "stretched" so that it no longer matches the original pitch of the sprocket. The sprocket has worn so as to effectively increase its pitch to match the worn chain…
…On a new sprocket tooth, the surface that the roller presses against is perpendicular to the pull of the chain. The worn teeth have become ramps, causing the chain to ride up under load…
…The rollers ride up on the sloped teeth until they reach a radius that corresponds to the longer pitch of the worn chain. The effective diameter (and thus, the effective pitch) of the sprocket has become larger, since the chain is no longer riding in the bottoms of the valleys…
…The new sprocket will wear rapidly to match the pitch of the worn-out chain…
From: Trail Rider Magazine
…Chain tightening and alignment is an important factor in getting the most life out of your chain and sprockets…
…Be advised that chain wear and sprocket wear go hand in hand…
…the service life is reduced whenever mating a new chain to used sprockets or vice versa…
From: maintenanceresourses.com
…Do not run new chain on worn sprockets, as it will cause the new chain to wear rapidly. Conversely, do not run a worn chain on new sprockets, as it will cause the new sprockets to wear rapidly…
