Oil dripping out of the over flow?

[cmskdx]

I have a 90 kdx 200 and just put atf type f in the trans and filled it about a 1/4 below the site glass and when I ride it and shut it off it spits some on the ground . Is this a comin thing with these? If I put in a whole quart it spits out even faster. Should I worry or just keep an eye on the level? thanks chris

 

[julien_d]

not normal. I'm not sure what could cause this though. Have you checked for leaking crank seals?

 

[wake_rider]

I'm a bit confused as to where it's spitting oil out from. Are you talking about the case vent-tube or is it coming from somewhere else?

 

[cmskdx]

yes sorry about that it is coming from the vent tube on the crank case . It only spits out small amout now that it is gone done alittle.

 

[sr5bidder]

the crank case vent should be connected to a hose and I have that hose running up to the airbox...can't remember if I had made a small hole for it or if thats where it came from originaly.. but thats where it is and causes no harm

 

[julien_d]

I know on the H bikes the vent runs up into the airbox, like sr5 said. On my E bikes it just runs down with the carb vent hoses. I can run a full quart and don't get anything from the vent hose unless I drop the bike. If it's spitting oil, I'd think you're getting positive pressure in the tranny. The only way for that to happen is a leaking RH crank seal. That's why I mentioned it....

J.

 

[wake_rider]

I know on the H bikes the vent runs up into the airbox, like sr5 said. On my E bikes it just runs down with the carb vent hoses. I can run a full quart and don't get anything from the vent hose unless I drop the bike. If it's spitting oil, I'd think you're getting positive pressure in the tranny. The only way for that to happen is a leaking RH crank seal. That's why I mentioned it....

J.

There's some solid, informative advice!

 

[longshore58]

Full quart ??

I know on the H bikes the vent runs up into the airbox, like sr5 said. On my E bikes it just runs down with the carb vent hoses. I can run a full quart and don't get anything from the vent hose unless I drop the bike. If it's spitting oil, I'd think you're getting positive pressure in the tranny. The only way for that to happen is a leaking RH crank seal. That's why I mentioned it....

J.

Hey Julien,

Do you seem to find neutral any better if you run the full quart?

I run ATF Type F @ .8 liters. (top of site glass)

I still get a few drops leaking from the vent-tube after riding but it never really seems to effect the oil level.

Just curious if the full quart might help with finding neutral when it gets stubborn........


(Oh yeah,the spark arrester works great / THANKS ! )

 

[cmskdx]

That is what mine is doing .On my bike the only way to find neutral is to be moving . Other wise it is a pain. I'm not going to worry about it until it needs a rebuild. The thing runs great know. Thanks chris

 

[julien_d]

Hey Julien,

Do you seem to find neutral any better if you run the full quart?

I run ATF Type F @ .8 liters. (top of site glass)

I still get a few drops leaking from the vent-tube after riding but it never really seems to effect the oil level.

Just curious if the full quart might help with finding neutral when it gets stubborn........


(Oh yeah,the spark arrester works great / THANKS ! )

Awesome, I'm glad it's working for you.

Dunno about finding neutral easier with a full quart. My clutch basket on the KDX is notched to death anyway, so finding neutral is always a bear. I know I can find it a lot easier with ATF in there than I can with 10w 40 though!

 

[julien_d]

That is what mine is doing .On my bike the only way to find neutral is to be moving . Other wise it is a pain. I'm not going to worry about it until it needs a rebuild. The thing runs great know. Thanks chris

Hmm. It's worth doing some checking out at least. If you do have leaky crank seals, your next rebuild might cost a lot more later than it would if you fix the problem now. A trashed main bearing can leave you needing to replace case halves and/or cylinder, which is a lot more costly than a piston and some main bearings. Not to mention, leaky crank seals make it nearly impossible to correctly jet a bike.

Normally the LH bearing and seal will fail first. Presumably due to the weight of the flywheel accelerating wear on the LH main bearing. If the bearing has slop, there's no way the seal can do it's job. If you remove the stator cover real quick, you can check for any oily residue back there which would indicate a leaking LH seal. Pull up and down / side to side on the flywheel and check for play in the bearing while you have it open. Very guick and easy test, with no cost or special tools needed. If the LH crank seal good, then it's very likely the RH is fine as well. It would take a leak down test to be 100% sure though.

The 89 and 91 both were in serious need of main bearings and seals when I brought them home.

 

[longshore58]

10w 40..........

Awesome, I'm glad it's working for you.

Dunno about finding neutral easier with a full quart. My clutch basket on the KDX is notched to death anyway, so finding neutral is always a bear. I know I can find it a lot easier with ATF in there than I can with 10w 40 though!

Ain't that the truth!

With 10w 40 you might as well put grape Kool-Aid in there.

 

[Joburble]

Sure does sound like positive pressure. If it has done a seal or is leaking through the case joint I'd fix it if I were you. Leaving busted stuff can add and compound issues, so I agree with julien_d on that one.

 

[cmskdx]

I checked the fly wheel cover and it is clean in there and there is no movment on the lh bearing . now that the bike has the rite amount in there it hasn't dripped at all .