ok to loctite rear axle bolt threads ?

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#1
the rear axle nut seized on my son's RM60.... i was attempting to adjust the chain at the time.

the hex rounded during the removal attempt, and to make a long story short, 2 nut crackers and a chisel later, i got the old nut off in pieces. the axle threads are pretty tweaked now.

the original axle has a cotter pin keeper which goes on in front of the nut, to keep it from backing off.

i have another axle bolt which does fit, but its a little shorter...and has no cotter pin holes.

would i be ill advised to go ahead and use the shorter axle bolt and loctite the threads/nut ?

i've never used loctite on anything, so my experience with the product is nil.
 
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#2
popthree said:
the rear axle nut seized on my son's RM60.... .
The previous nut seized, and now you want to put a new one on with Locktite? Are you a glutton for punishment?

I would recommend ordering the proper nut from the factory.

If you do use Locktite, be aware that there are several diffent formulas. There is a formula for items that you NEVER want to take apart again, such as a stud or pin mount. There is a formula that you are not likely to ever take apart again. And there is a formula for situation where you are likely to want to take it apart again.

Do not use the permanent stuff or you will regret it.

Rod
 

IndyMX

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#3
if the one that is just a bit shorter fits, just drill a hole in it. Not a great big deal. I wouldn't use loctite on an axle bolt.. bad plan.
 
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#4
IndyYZ85 said:
if the one that is just a bit shorter fits, just drill a hole in it. Not a great big deal. I wouldn't use loctite on an axle bolt.. bad plan.
yeah i would drill it, but its too short to drill. the nut fits on it just fine, but not enough room for a drilled hole and cotter pin.

i was thinking maybe it would be ok to use one of the lower grade loctites, which is not supposed to be perminant...222 ?

like i said, i've never used loctite. just fishing for some good advice.

i realize the best course of action is to buy an OEM part and replace it the way it came from the factory.... just trying to make use of a part i already have on hand.
 

IndyMX

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#5
the bolt on my CR had no hole in it, I drilled thru the nut, it's a pain to line up, but once lined up, I can put safety wire thru it.
 
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#6
I wonder why my last two YZ's haven't had anything but a nut on the rear axle? I've seen other bikes with a cotter pin setup. I haven't had any issues with loose or missing axle nuts. I figured it was the tension of the swingarm keeping things tight.
 
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#7
As others have said I wouldn't recommend loctite on your axle nuts. Torquing them properly will generally be sufficient to keep them in place and make it much easier to remove them when needed

As for cotter pins they are generally found on older bikes and trail bikes for a couple of reasons. The axles on trail bikes will usually not see a wrench very often. Also most trail riders will put far less torque on these bolts so they can be removed on the trail when needed with out the advantage of long wrenches for leverage. The cotter pin is certainly needed in this case.

Motocross bikes will see tire changes and chain adjustments more often and generally have beefier axles so it isn't as big of an issue. If properly tightened they won't come loose. Modern KTM's have aluminum axle nuts for crying out loud and they stay tight.

Moral; get a torque wrench if you don't have one. Every bolt on your bike that you can get a socket on should be tightened with one. If you tighten it up properly you should be fine but getting a factory axle and nut is still a good idea anyway.

Rob...
 
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#8
i ended up going with a 'flange nut' and the shorter axle. no loctite. i'll probably order an OEM axle at a local shop, and change it out when i do brakes on this bike. i priced one @ 15 bucks and change. thanks for the opinions.