Studboy

Thinks he can ride
Dec 2, 2001
1,818
0
Jmics...I pulled the topend apart again just to make sure that everything was good. We even put new O-Rings in the head. The exhaust smells and looks just like normal 2-Stroke. I wish that I had a PWK for the bike (My favorite carb.) but we do have the Mikuni with both the Pilot and Main jets. The guy who had the bike bought it from White Brothers and it has the correct needle for the bike.

When you install the oil seal, the flat face is supposed to be facing inwards (towards the crank.) correct?

The filter is a brand new uni oiled as usual. I tryed the bike for a second without the filter and it didn't really help any.
 

placelast

Member
Apr 11, 2001
1,298
1
Originally posted by Studboy
When you install the oil seal, the flat face is supposed to be facing inwards (towards the crank.) correct?


Gosh: it's been a few years, and I'm losing my memory. I believe the flat face should face outboard, because the crank pressures cycle from + to - over and over, whereas the clutch cavity does not. Yeah; that's it. I seem to think the manual is wrong.

Any confirmation out there?
 

dthoms

Member
Oct 6, 2002
175
0
BoyStud,
In my books the flat part of the crank seal points out. I looked in a RMX manual and a CR manual and the were both the same. It would make sense to have the flat edge pointing out this way increased pressure would give you a better seal, like in a fork for instance.
Also I had problems installing one of those boysen reeds in a friends bike once. We ended up moving the holes a little and shaving down the outer case. The problem was the cage didn't fit quite right and the reeds were being pinched a little. If it doesn't fit just right when you tighten the bolts it will distort the cage and cause problem, really, really.
DT
 

Studboy

Thinks he can ride
Dec 2, 2001
1,818
0
DANG!!! I really hope that I didn't put it in backwards.... I didn't even look in the book, I just put it in the same way as the old seal. I really don't think that it is the problem right now though...
dthoms, your problem was with the RAD valve and not just the reeds, correct? I just put new reeds on the stock cage.
 

Studboy

Thinks he can ride
Dec 2, 2001
1,818
0
OK, here's an update.

We are down to a 260 on the main (From 340) and a 45 on the pilot. It runs OK down low, and mid throttle response is decent. On top, it still smokes like a chimney and cuts out early, although maybe not quite as soon.
Things we've checked:

-Topend gaskets are good.
-Exhaust is sealed.
-RH Crank seal
-Cleaned carb a billion times.
-Took choke plunger from other carb to check, no difference.
-Good comp.
-No coolant leak from what I can tell.

The bike smells just like normal 2-Stroke (Klotz, easy to smell.) Except lots of it!!!

Just to clarify, the carb that we are using has been on the bike for a while and ran decent about a year ago, so I think that the needle and slide are OK for the bike.

Anything else that we should check? This is really getting frustrating! :eek:
 

georgieboy

Member
Jan 2, 2001
416
0
i find a 45 for the pilot rather big. I have a mikuni carb and run 35 for the pilot although completely diffenrent bike.
I wld go leaning it further untill you find it run bad because of leaningness.
U checked everything so it is the carb which is the culprit here.
 

lwsmithjr

~SPONSOR~
Sep 18, 2002
194
0
You mentioned way back at the beginning that the bike wouldn't fire because of a loose stator wire. A weak spark could produce very similar symptoms to a rich condition. We had a KX that did EXACTLY as you describe and I spent days lowering the main jet and adjusting the needle to no avail. Turns out the stator was bad. Seems like you've covered everything else.
 
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