RM85rider123

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I just did an oil change on my RM85, and today I just went riding and when I shifted into first gear, with the clutch held in, it would sort of roll while the clutch held in. Could it be to thick of oil? it is 10w-30 synthetic( not full synthetic), should I use 5w-30? Please help me, I don't want to pay 400 dollars for a new clutch if it is messed up.
 

RM85rider123

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but before the oil change, it worked like it was brand new, it is barely a year old, I never pop the clutch. What i was thinking is that the oil is to thick and it is hard for the plates to move. plates cant go bad overnight.
 

a454elk

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Sounds like the oil weight, maybe. Try riding it for a bit to get it up to running temp and then see if it still does it. If not, then the oil is it. Get it warm enought to put some oil between the plates and see what happens.
 
B

biglou

Elk is right. Cold and/or thick oil will cause some drag. You might change the oil out to a lighter viscosity, or adjust a bit more slack into the clutch, or live with it.
 

a454elk

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I've always run 10-40 in my RM and haven't ever had a problem. I usually use the Chevron stuff from Costco believe it or not.
 

RM85rider123

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a454elk, my engine size is 85cc though, I saw that yours is a 250. Saying that, I think I should use something thinner than a 30 weight.
 

sigurd

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RM85rider123

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I dont have my manual, we bought the bike from my dads boss who lost the manual. What the heck do you mean by "LOGIC"???
 

sigurd

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RM85rider123 said:
I dont have my manual, we bought the bike from my dads boss who lost the manual. What the heck do you mean by "LOGIC"???

Logic is when you use your brain to analyze something and come to a conclusion. You have implied that since your engine displacement is smaller you need a thinner viscosity oil. I'm look for the steps in your analysis which leads you to make that jump. I've never heard anything like that. If it is good sound logic, others will concur or validate your wag, undoubtedly.

here's a fer instance, on applying logic and known facts. Go down to kx137/jaybird's explanations.

It may tell you what you were thinking.
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=115524&highlight=oil+viscosity
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=97754&highlight=oil+viscosity
 
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sigurd

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You'll be wanting to buy a manual. If you love that bike, it will be your bible from here on out. The bike won't survive without it.
 

a454elk

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I know that my manual suggests an 80 weight but when I do, it shifts real hard and doesn't seem to ease up unless I ride it like it's on fire. It's obvious that the oil caused the problem from what you say. Run it with what you have in it and see if it loosens up. When I first start my bike, it's rough on the take off too. I've heard that RM clutches are that way, but I can only say this based on what mine does.
 

RM85rider123

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i agree in every way about the manual, but my logic on moving to a thinner oil is that I am using 30 weight oil, and if you read the whole thread I said that the bike would roll a little while the clutch held in, which got me going on the oil vescosity. Since the oil is thick, oil might not be getting into the plates, so it would roll a little.
 

a454elk

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Like I said, my bike would sometimes quit as soon as I kicked it into first. I just revved is a bit to help and then the oil got into the plates as I took off. It was fine after that. If it's been a while since the oil change, your plates probably got used to what was in there then was shocked with the new stuff. Not very technical but that may just be it. ;)
 

RM85rider123

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you read my mind 454elk, I forgot to state that it was rough on the start off, and after every oil change It would be hard to shift, but would loosen up though. And I agree with you 100% that RM clutches are somewhat rough, It took me a month to get used to the clutch with this bike.
 

a454elk

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I have a Hinson clutch in my RM and it still has a hard take off. It usually does that only on warm up but after riding, it's fine. I think your change is fine with the oil you used. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
 

RM85rider123

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Same thing would happen to me again, does yours get real low- revved when you shift into first? mine does. Oh yeah, I shouldnt have went a month without changing my oil, but the oil lasted.
 

RM85rider123

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The only thing that scared me was that I thought I would have to pay 400 dollars in a new clutch. I heard that hinson clutch baskets are made of some super strong metal or something.
 

a454elk

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After it died when shifting into first, I now rev it and take off so I don't let the rpms drop too much. I sometimes take off in second to help ease the jolt. I go about 3 rides then change the oil. Doesn't cost but about 5 bucks a change so I tend do do it more often.
 

a454elk

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A new clutch ain't near that much. Worse case, you'd need plates for around 100 bucks. Not sure how you ride it but they can handle quite a bit.
 

RM85rider123

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how many quarts does yours take. mine 1.5-2.0 quarts. the thing that sucks is that synthetic castrol oil costs 4 dollars a quart, and since I am under 14, it is hard to come by money. gotta go see ya later!
 

Rotorranch

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RM85rider123 said:
how many quarts does yours take. mine 1.5-2.0 quarts. the thing that sucks is that synthetic castrol oil costs 4 dollars a quart, and since I am under 14, it is hard to come by money. gotta go see ya later!

NO WAY IT TAKES 2.0 QUARTS! :coocoo:

Read the manual. Or the clutch cover. :bang:

Rotor
 
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