Power On/Off Switch??

yzguy15

Sprayin tha game
N. Texas SP
Joined
Oct 27, 2000
Messages
1,271
Likes
0
#1
Has anybody tried to make or mount a power on/off switch for their MXC or EXC? I don't really care for the way the power is always on, and anybody (including a younger sibling, mother, girlfriend, etc etc) could walk by and hit the magic button. Odds are, nothing would happen, but I still would rather that not be an issue. Has anybody rigged one? Does any aftermarket company build one? Anybody seen a thread talking about this (perhaps on KTM or Thumper Talk)? Any help in this area would be much appreciated.
 

biglou

#3
You could hack a switch inline with one of the starter relay wires on the magic button. My DRZ keyswitch was a two wire switch, and I didn't like the idea of having to keep track of a key for a dirt-only bike. I ordered a headlight switch off a WRsomething-or-other. It is also a two wire switch, only a bar-mounted rocker switch. Took the place of the kill switch and the key in one shot. Switch on, push happy button, ride. Switch off, bike dies. Clean and simple. I just couldn't leave it on or the battery would drain in a pretty short amount of time. Overnight would do it. I bumped it once moving the bike and had that happen. Any switch would work. You could even hide it somewhere on the bike to disable things.

Do you have the schematic for this bike? If you do, maybe you could make copies and fax them to me and I could tell you where to hack in. If wire colors are included, that would be even better. I'm thinking it would be more of a "starter enable switch". Meaning you would have to turn the new switch on to have the start button work. Turning it off after the bike is running would have no effect. You'd use the stock stop button for that.
 

yzguy15

Sprayin tha game
N. Texas SP
Joined
Oct 27, 2000
Messages
1,271
Likes
0
#4
Originally posted by BigLou
Do you have the schematic for this bike? If you do, maybe you could make copies and fax them to me and I could tell you where to hack in. If wire colors are included, that would be even better. I'm thinking it would be more of a "starter enable switch". Meaning you would have to turn the new switch on to have the start button work. Turning it off after the bike is running would have no effect. You'd use the stock stop button for that.
That is EXACTLY what I was trying to ask. I just don't like the idea of the button just always being able to fire the thing all the time. I'd rather have a little control over when the power is going to the button. That is waht I want, what you just described.

Where would one find the schematic? In the book? I have (I think) all of the books that came with the bike.. Thanks Big Lou, you rock :aj:
 

70 marlin

Mi. Trail Riders
Joined
Aug 15, 2000
Messages
2,963
Likes
2
#5
If had a way of scanning a diagram of my Husaberg electric system I'd post it. She has a key. A very cute, little key/switch behind the number plate. Most all of my parts on this bike are KTM. So you should be able to buy it from you local dealer?
 
Last edited:

biglou

#6
Eric-I think one of the books includes a schematic or two. I don't have my kTm anymore or I'd see which book it's in. If you can scan the page(s) or copy them and fax them, I'll take a look and see where to splice in. Basically, you are going to cut one wire, then take two new wires (black speaker wire works great for keeping things tidy) and attach one of these wires to one side of the wire you just cut, the other goes to the other cut wire, then run the wire to wherever you are going to put your switch, connect your switch, and there you have it. Like I said, you can get a bar mounted rocker switch, or a mini toggle switch and hide it somewhere, even a kill switch would work-you'd have to hold it down while pressing the start button. Although that might get confusing come time to shut down. Does this bike not have a clutch safety switch, where you have to hold the clutch in to start it? That is the same principle we are looking at here. Although, some of those clutch switches can be somewhat fragile. Another note-if your new switch ever craps out, or you suspect it is faulty, take the wires off, twist them together, and that is just like closing the switch (turning it on).

I'll PM you some contact info, Eric.
 

biglou

#8
<Edit Note:> I forgot to mention, pull the neg battery lead before you start!

Got it. Looking at the first of the three pages in the link I posted (MXC Without Lights), #13 is your start/stop switch, and #12 is the first connector downstream from it. If you have enough wire length before the connector (6" or more), cut either the black/white or the orange wire at a convienient spot. Connect your 2 new wires that will go to the new interupt switch to each end you just cut. Be sure to use wire of at least the same gage (size) as what is there now!!! Then, just run your 2 new wires to wherever you mount your new interupt switch. Your interupt switch will be a SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) switch. If it has more contacts than that, you need to make sure you are using only one set (ie: any of the pairs of poles that make/break when you activate/deactivate the switch).

Note 1: If you don't have enough wire to work with before that first connector, you will want to cut and splice into only the red/white wire on the backside of that first connector downstream of the start/stop switch. The reason for that is because there are two wires on the same pin on the backside of that connector feeding the black/white wire on the start/stop switch side of the connector. Looks like one of those wires backfeeds power to a voltage limiter for a fan (even if it's not installed, the wiring is still there, just like for the headlights). My guess is there will be plenty of wire before that first connector to work with, but I could be wrong. You might want to follow the wires from the stock switch to see if you can splice in at a hidden location like under the tank at the frame "spine". Makes for a cleaner look. Plus, lots of the wiring harnesses seem to congregate there. You don't really want splices up around the handlebars if you can help it. Also, you can use those "butt splices" that you crimp on, or better, solder the bare wires and heat shrink them. Don't forget to slide a length of heat shrink onto the wires before you solder them! (ask me how I know that!)

Note #2: Black/white probably = black with white stripe, etc. It might be black stripe on a white wire, but regardless, it will be the only wire with that exact color combo. Same thing for the red/white wire on the backside of the first connector after the start/stop switch (mentioned in Note 1).

I saw a switch hanging on the wall at my local shop that was exactly like the WR lightswitch I mentioned earlier. It was about $13. The OEM switch I ordered a few years back was aroung $35. So, check your local shops, they might have something hanging around for a decent price. If you can't find a suitable switch, let me know and I'll grab the one I saw here and send it to you.

I've PM'd you my numbers, gimme a call if you have any questions. :thumb:
 
Last edited by a moderator:

yzguy15

Sprayin tha game
N. Texas SP
Joined
Oct 27, 2000
Messages
1,271
Likes
0
#9
Lou, thanks for all your help. You really are one of the best members of this board. I'll let ya know.
 

CAL

Sponsoring Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2000
Messages
2,032
Likes
0
#10
Originally posted by yzguy15
Lou, You really are one of the best members of this board.
Don't make his head any bigger than what it already is! ;)

&nbsp;