- Dec 19, 2005
- 193
- 0
I tried it with the same nut that came off the stud's other end. Is it supposed to fit on both ends? I assumed that both ends would have the same size threads. The nut threads easily onto the stud half which goes thru the head (which is what you'd expect of course). But not so on the portion of the stud that threads into cylinder. Maybe it would thread easily if the stud was brand new?canyncarvr said:(d) Wrong nut?
You may very well be right, i.e. it is not tapered. Perhaps the threads got stretched just a little? My street bike (early model air-cooled ducati 900ss) is well known for breaking head studs, and the explanation I've heard was that the stud breaks because the aluminum head expands considerably more than the steel stud when it heats up, and eventually fatigues and snaps the stud. Ducati's remedy was to switch to a "stretchier" stud. So I'm thinking that my KDX could have stretched stud threads, and perhaps cylinder threads too. Or maybe I'm just being overly paranoid. :yikes:A tapered thread (say...pipe) would show up some past a thread or two. Consider: If it DID taper that fast, how is it going to make it all the way INto the cylinder? Well, obviously with a tapered thread there, too..but I don't think so.
If you get a chance, that would be great.It's listed as an 8x32 stud. I've not actually checked mine..but I believe they are not taper threaded.
I have a spare cylinder at home. I'll check one of mine if you're interested.
I was thinking about cleaning up leftover loctite or whatever the hell it was that made it so difficult to unscrew my studs.Shouldn't be any clean-up necessary. Those areas of the cylinder should be well protected during the plating process.
I plan to send it directly to US Chrome, but I'm open to other recommendations.Who's doing the replate?
No problem. Thanks for the update.canyncarvr said:Sorry...I didn't keep track of this thread.
The studs are the same thread pitch on both ends. I took a spare stud of mine and threaded a nut to the end of the threads on both ends using my fingers.
Ouch! That info comes a bit late since my cylinder is already at USC. But since this is the first time I've had anything re-plated, I'd appreciate if you could share the nature of your problem, i.e. what should I look out for?Anecdotal info is not the best to count on..and that's what this is: My experience with USC isn't good. I know of other riders that have had a similar bad experience with them. I don't know from personal use who I'd prefer, but I won't ever use USC again.
I received my cylinder from USC today. They did not include the piece of paper that you're talking about. I can see just a few pits but not with a naked eye - I have to use a magnifying glass and put my nose right inside the cylinder bore to see them. They look insignificant in size, and few and far between, but I really have no standard to compare to.canyncarvr said:USC's point of view: Some cylinder base material is quite porous. Replating leaves pits. Some pits are OK.
They will send you a piece of paper with a lot of specks on it attempting to define the criteria used to determine if the cylinder is good enough...or not. If you don't get that 'documentation', tell them to send it to you.
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