Questions - RE: Drippings

TheGDog · Nov 2, 2007

After receiving some very helpful tips in another thread.. I took this 1990 KDX 200 out for a quick spin around the block. When I came back home I noticed the following things:

=========

-This vent hose which comes outta the cases sorta on the inner side of where the kick-start gear is... had some drips... I think it's fuel, correct me if I'm wrong. Should this be dripping? (Not bad... but a little) Did it drip like this simply because I did a few wheelies?

- The white Radiator reservoir (tucked behind the side number plate) seemed to be leaking from around the black filler cap. I checked and this cap does have some sorta Rubber sealing disc in it from the factory. When I put it back on I made sure it felt snug and used a lil more oomph by hand. The Reservoir is NOT filled between the HIGH and LOW lines at the moment. But I imagine it would be pointless to fill it up until that leak is addressed. Anybody else having this Radiator reservoir thing leak? Please advise. (This one dripped enough to concern me)

Rod Overstreet · Nov 2, 2007

Drip

You shouldn't have ANY fuel drip from the crankcase vent line!
Have you drained the crankcase oil to see if it is contaminated with fuel?

TheGDog · Nov 3, 2007

I had planned on changing the Tranny oil this weekend.

How would Tranny oil contaminated with fuel look? In what way would it look/feel/smell different?

P.S> greatly appreciating tapping into the expertise/experience of all you guys. :worship:

TheGDog · Nov 3, 2007

Anybody ever have the Radiator Reservoir situation I talked about occur?

TheGDog · Nov 3, 2007

Hmmm.... checked out some similar posts on another site...

"Smell it. if it smells like exhaust, or raw fuel, it's getting old."

So indeed it's time to change my Tranny oil!

Rod Overstreet · Nov 3, 2007

Drip

TheGDog said:
Hmmm.... checked out some similar posts on another site...

"Smell it. if it smells like exhaust, or raw fuel, it's getting old."

So indeed it's time to change my Tranny oil!

Yes, but what made it blow out your vent line? You either had WAAAY too much oil in the crankcase or have a RH crank seal that is leaking compression into the crankcase.

Rod Overstreet · Nov 3, 2007

Reservoir

TheGDog said:
Anybody ever have the Radiator Reservoir situation I talked about occur?

Seems like I remember something about this problem. Check with a Kawa dealer and have them check to see if there was a tech bullit. issued on this or...simply give Jeff a call at Fredette Racing Products They don't call him Dr. DX for nothing.

Rotorranch · Nov 3, 2007

TheGDog said:
After receiving some very helpful tips in another thread.. I took this 1990 KDX 200 out for a quick spin around the block. When I came back home I noticed the following things:

- The white Radiator reservoir (tucked behind the side number plate) seemed to be leaking from around the black filler cap. I checked and this cap does have some sorta Rubber sealing disc in it from the factory. When I put it back on I made sure it felt snug and used a lil more oomph by hand. The Reservoir is NOT filled between the HIGH and LOW lines at the moment. But I imagine it would be pointless to fill it up until that leak is addressed. Anybody else having this Radiator reservoir thing leak? Please advise. (This one dripped enough to concern me)

The reservoir is an overflow catch can. As coolant in the rad gets warm, it expands. Rather than just push it out the overflow hose onto the ground, Kaw chose to use the catch can. The coolant expands, and the catch can holds it until the bike cools off. As it cools, it sucks the coolant out of the catch can back into the rad. If the catch can was too full, it will leak out the of the cap, as it is not sealed, nor pressurized. If it wasn't overfull, then you may have a bad rad cap.

Rotor

TheGDog · Nov 4, 2007

Hmmm... I guess maybe the cap on the catch can doesn't seal so good? It was empty.. so overfull is not the scenario.

I'm going to replace the fluid in both the radiators (hopefully tomorrow) and when I do I'll go ahead and fill the catch can to the LOW line and see what happens. If the sealing rubber under that catch can cap is not as good as when new... maybe I can rough it up with some fine-grit sandpaper so it might perhaps seal better when tightened? Just a thought... whaddaya think?

Or maybe I should just try to find an O-ring or grommet the size of that cap? Anybody know the inner-size of that cap?

Rotorranch · Nov 4, 2007

The cap on the catch can should not be sealed up. It has to breathe. It is not pressureized.

My guess is the rad cap, not the catch can.

Rotor

TheGDog · Nov 5, 2007

No.... I'm telling you... clearly... the cap of the catch can reservoir thingy was leaking a lil bit from the cap.

The cap on that... indeed... should be sealed.... because this reservoir has a long breather tube on it... so that isn't an issue.

Anyhoo... this evening I topped-off the radiator and then filled the Reservior to just below the HIGH level line. I then replaced the reservoir cap as tightly as I could by hand. If it should happen to leak now... there is no way I can prevent it from leaking, other than replacing the darn thing.

Sigh.... now I just have to wait for some more paychecks to roll by so I can order the stiffer springs front and back.... and then I should be ready to have the dealer install the seals/springs... and that should pretty much get me to a point where I can finally take the dang thing out.

chiro972 · Nov 5, 2007

Honestly, invest a tiny amount of the money you would pay the dealer to install that stuff and buy a factory service manual and do it yourself. Installing fork springs and seals is easy but the dealer will charge you an arm and a leg. You might need a damper rod holder or an electric impact wrench (I got mine for around $20 at harbor freight and it works great)

Anyway since you're tight on funds, learn to to the work yourself and you will save a bundle. Dealer labor is very expensive and there isn't much on these bikes that you can't do yourself.

Rotorranch · Nov 5, 2007

TheGDog said:
No.... I'm telling you... clearly... the cap of the catch can reservoir thingy was leaking a lil bit from the cap.

The cap on that... indeed... should be sealed.... because this reservoir has a long breather tube on it... so that isn't an issue.

Anyhoo... this evening I topped-off the radiator and then filled the Reservior to just below the HIGH level line. I then replaced the reservoir cap as tightly as I could by hand. If it should happen to leak now... there is no way I can prevent it from leaking, other than replacing the darn thing.

Sigh.... now I just have to wait for some more paychecks to roll by so I can order the stiffer springs front and back.... and then I should be ready to have the dealer install the seals/springs... and that should pretty much get me to a point where I can finally take the dang thing out.

The cap on the catch can ( coolant recovery tank ) is not a pressure cap. The overflow tank is open to atmospheric pressure. The long hose is to direct any excess coolant away from the rider. If the coolant in the overflow goes up enough to fill up the tank, your radiator cap is probably bad, or the radiator neck is damaged. :nod:

Rotor

gn83tm · Nov 5, 2007

I'd ditch the overflow tank and not worry about it. I did this on my E-model 2 weeks after I bought it and never had an issue with it. Just run the overflow line from the radiator down under the engine like most other bikes and keep an eye on the radiator level.

TheGDog · Nov 5, 2007

Rotorranch said:
The cap on the catch can ( coolant recovery tank ) is not a pressure cap. The overflow tank is open to atmospheric pressure. The long hose is to direct any excess coolant away from the rider. If the coolant in the overflow goes up enough to fill up the tank, your radiator cap is probably bad, or the radiator neck is damaged. :nod:

Rotor

Sorry Rotor... thank you for that clarification.
I'm widdit now with what you're trying to tell me.

How does this mean that the radiator cap is bad? Bad in what way? How would it cause high overflow?

Finding a new radiator cap should be difficult, right!?

==============

I'm likin' that idea more-and-more of ditchin' the coolant overflow bottle.

When I had the 97 RM250 I just always made it a point to check the level before loading up the bike for a ride.

Rotorranch · Nov 5, 2007

TheGDog said:
Sorry Rotor... thank you for that clarification.
I'm widdit now with what you're trying to tell me.

How does this mean that the radiator cap is bad? Bad in what way? How would it cause high overflow?

Finding a new radiator cap should be difficult, right!?

==============

I'm likin' that idea more-and-more of ditchin' the coolant overflow bottle.

When I had the 97 RM250 I just always made it a point to check the level before loading up the bike for a ride.

Ditching the overflow, particularly if you're having coolant issues, wouldn't be prudent.

If the radiator cap doesn't seal, the coolant will be forced out of the rad as it expands, due to heat.

Without the overflow container, that coolant goes on the ground. When the cooling system cools off, the rad sucks air as the coolant cools. Result is , low coolant level in the rad.

With the overflow, the coolant is pushed into the tank. As the system cools, the coolant from the overflow is sucked back into the radiator. Result is, a full rad.

The radiator cap has a pressure rating. If it fails to seal at the specified rating, coolant will be pushed out of the rad easier. This could lead to the problem of your coolant leak at the cap on the overflow tank.

Inspect the radiator cap closely. Worn or cracked seals, or damage, will cause the cap to bleed coolant before it reaches normal pressures. Also, the rad neck could be damaged.

It should not push enough coolant to fill the overflow tank.

The overflow tank is a very good idea. I wish more bikes had them. It may be a particularly good idea on 4 strokes, which are really prone to getting hot and spitting out coolant.

I hope this rant helps.

Rotor

Rotorranch · Nov 5, 2007

TheGDog said:
Finding a new radiator cap should be difficult, right!?

Any dealer, or your favorite online place, can get the cap. It's nothing special.

I think you can get one from the local auto parts store, believe it or not.

Rotor

bclark001 · Nov 6, 2007

TheGDog said:
I had planned on changing the Tranny oil this weekend.

How would Tranny oil contaminated with fuel look? In what way would it look/feel/smell different?

P.S> greatly appreciating tapping into the expertise/experience of all you guys. :worship:

put some in a metal cup and see if it ignites by flame. I have used this method when checking for fuel contamination in motor oil on a car and worked quite well oil itself does not usually ignite unless its an extremely hot flame

TheGDog · Nov 6, 2007

RE: Service Manual + D.I.Y.

chiro972 said:
Honestly, invest a tiny amount of the money you would pay the dealer to install that stuff and buy a factory service manual and do it yourself. Installing fork springs and seals is easy but the dealer will charge you an arm and a leg. You might need a damper rod holder or an electric impact wrench (I got mine for around $20 at harbor freight and it works great)

Anyway since you're tight on funds, learn to to the work yourself and you will save a bundle. Dealer labor is very expensive and there isn't much on these bikes that you can't do yourself.

"chiro-san" you have convinced me. Besides.... the more I thought about it... the more I got to thinking that if I do the seals and springs... my eyes will have scanned across all the parts I pull out.

I know me.... I push it when I'm out there. So I'm thinking the added safety of my own meticulous scrutiny might just be a good thing for a 17 yr old bike.

Is the standard Kawasaki service manual the best? Or are there after-market ones that are more detailed/better illustrated etc?

TheGDog · Nov 6, 2007

:yikes:

bclark001 said:
put some in a metal cup and see if it ignites by flame. I have used this method when checking for fuel contamination in motor oil on a car and worked quite well oil itself does not usually ignite unless its an extremely hot flame

Hmmm.... ok. The oil I drained has been sitting out for a few days now. Probably wouldn't ignite now anyway... but... I'll give that a shot if I see the same condition next oil change.

But I'll definitely walk out to the curb before I try that one! :yikes:

TheGDog · Nov 6, 2007

Rotorranch said:
Any dealer, or your favorite online place, can get the cap. It's nothing special.

I think you can get one from the local auto parts store, believe it or not.

Rotor

Dang misspellings... I meant to type "*shouldn't* be difficult."
:cool:

Rotorranch · Nov 6, 2007

TheGDog said:
Dang misspellings... I meant to type "*shouldn't* be difficult."
:cool:

I figured that. ;)

My fingers often outrun my brain! :whoa:

Rotor

Questions - RE: Drippings

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