ready to buy kdx200. have ??


est142

Member
Dec 30, 2003
98
0
thanks in advance for all responses. i will be looking to buy a 98-01 kdx200 or 220 very soon.
are there any bad years to stay away from?
are there any chronic problems that i should look for symptons of?
what should the sales price range be?
what are the pros-cons between the 200 and the 220?

thanks.
 

tim_from_az

Member
Sep 18, 2003
48
0
My advice is check the tank for cracks. I recently bought a 01 220 that had a cracked tank at the filler neck. I didn't find this out until after I got the bike home and filled the tank for the first time. Come to find out this is a very common place for cracks if the gas cap is over tightened.
 

Smit-Dog

Mi. Trail Riders
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Oct 28, 2001
4,704
0
Originally posted by tim_from_az
My advice is check the tank for cracks. I recently bought a 01 220 that had a cracked tank at the filler neck. I didn't find this out until after I got the bike home and filled the tank for the first time. Come to find out this is a very common place for cracks if the gas cap is over tightened.
What I've heard that is more common is to have the gas cap crack, not the tank, from over-tightening. It happened to me. Much cheaper to replace the cap than the tank too!
 

Smit-Dog

Mi. Trail Riders
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Oct 28, 2001
4,704
0
.... And I'm starting to get "seller's remorse".... even before selling it!

It's a buyer's market out there for sure, especially for used bikes. You can certainly buy a less expensive used KDX. But my bike is for someone looking for fairly new, low mileage bike, with immaculate maintenance, and ready to rip in the woods.

You can buy a new KDX, and spend another ~$1,500 (and a lot of time) to get it set up the same way. My bike just saves someone about $2,000.

Rather than continue to drop the price though like so many other desperate souls, I'll save it for my son and store it for 2-3 years.
 

Rods_KDX

Member
Aug 24, 2003
2
0
I am selling my 1998 KDX200, fmf fatty rev pipe, fmf silencer, thumper racing modified suspension, fresh top end, weisco piston & rings, boyesen reeds, answer bars , moose handguards, WER dampner. I live in Marshall Texas, and can deliver 200-300 mile radius.
email me at rods777@hotmail.com
 

23jayhawk

Sponsoring Member
Apr 30, 2002
675
0
are there any bad years to stay away from? 

I don't think there is such a thing, since there were so few changes. After '95, I believe the only changes are graphics, and I think I read somewhere that the footpeg attachment is modified slightly after '98 or '99, if I remember right. Certainly nothing significant.

are there any chronic problems that i should look for symptons of? 

The only issue that merits discussion is the history of piston skirts cracking/disintegrating on some 220's. Generally this only happens on bikes with aftermarket pipes and that are ridden hard (i.e. up in the rev range). I would not let this stop me from buying an otherwise clean used 220, as you'll likely want to start with a fresh top end anyway.

If the previous owner has left the jetting a bit sloppy, the power valve mechanism can gum up to the extent that the drive gear will strip. This usually becomes apparent by a loss of top end power as the valve never opens. Since you'll probably clean this up when you freshen the top end, it's really not an issue.

what are the pros-cons between the 200 and the 220? 

The link Fred gave you is a good summary. I will add that putting a desert (Rev) pipe on the 200 changes the character of the bike considerably. In tight & rocky woods it's more than this Senior C rider is comfortable with, although it's a hoot in open areas. With the woods (Torque) pipe and 13/49 gearing, it's perfect for me. I rarely ever need 1st gear except to bail me out on a hill, it has more top end than I have the nerve to unleash, and I can loft the front end at will at anytime. I only weigh about 150, if I was closer to 180 or more, perhaps the extra grunt of the 220 would be preferred.
 
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