Really high temp. grease?

[clw]

I'm cooking all of my grease's. On the brake caliper pins, that is. Yamaha doesn't state, but what is the best grease to use on these? These are the pins that allow the caliper assembly to float and adjust as pads wear, not the pad retainer pins (which aren't greased).

Thanks

 

[EricGorr]

There are greases designed for use on brake caliper pins, they're popular in auto repair. Try an auto parts store. You can also use the Teflon grease which is designed for suspension components.
White lith grease is also good, I assemble exhaust valve systems using this type of grease.
Good luck, Eric

 

[Yamamoto]

I have done this for years and had no problem but tell me what you think.

I use a teflon base grease. its brand name is MAGIC LUBE, used for pool pump bearings and rubber gaskets.

this stuff is thick and water beads off of it.

I have done a test with water and grease, by putting a dab of grease in a cup and adding water then stiring.

what I have found with wheel bearing grease is that in no time at all you have sludge and with the Magic lube you can pour the water out no matter how much you stir it.

They also make Magic lube II that is a Hi-temp.

 

[Jaybird]

I don't think that "high-temp" is of any concern on lubricating pins and such.
Even cheap greases will have a drop point (point when the consistency of the grease goes to a more fluid state) of over 200 deg. F. Your brake pins are probably not reaching this temperature. Greases are also rated on how thick they are, sgli #00, 0, 1, 2......2 being the thickest. I always try to use a #2 grease on bikes. If you want to spend a bunch of money on high-temp grease, I would recommend Castrol 860-220-#2 (lithium soap base) which will hold on till about 400+ degrees F. ( I think Castrol rates it a bit lower but I have tested it and know it will hold past 400 deg.) Mobil AW2 is also a great all-around lithium based grease.

 

[clw]

How HOT is HOT?

Although I have not measured the temperature it's hot! I tend to drag the brakes in the tight woods and cook the brake fluid regularly. Water explodes off the caliper from my Camelbak after a hard ride and I think the Motul fluid is rated for 585-600°. On occasion I'll boil it. Now how much of this gets to the pins I don't know. Regular Quaker State white marine grease (lithium) turns to paste after one hard ride, it's not the answer.

I think I have some Teflon grease in my storage cabinet for the pool pump, it might be Magic Lube. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the responses.

 

[Bill Hibbs]

Never Seize brand grease. It's silver. They use this stuff in steel mills. It rules. I've used it on header bolts on engines and taken the bolts out a year later and it's still wet.

 

[Jaybird]

You can also find small cans of Never Seize in the plumbing supply section of most hardware stores. Pipefitters swear by it.

 

[Yamamoto]

Magic Lube II is the hi temp one.

 

[clw]

So many answers!

Wow! Thanks again.

Is Never Seize the Permatex product or something else? If it's in the plumbing section of a hardware store I may be out of luck. The generic monsters, Home Depot and Lowes, have put most hardware stores out of business, and they were so much fun to browse in. I did a web search and got a different product http://www.pollardwater.com/emarket/pages/P67702neverseez.asp Just wondering which one to go buy.

 

[spanky250]

Re: How HOT is HOT?

Originally posted by clw
I tend to drag the brakes in the tight woods and cook the brake fluid regularly. Water explodes off the caliper from my Camelbak after a hard ride and I think the Motul fluid is rated for 585-600°. On occasion I'll boil it.

Maybe you should drag the brakes a little less?:think

 

[clw]

typical enduro!

...accelerate as hard as you can, brake as hard as you can, turn, accelerate as hard as you can, brake as hard as you can, turn, repeat every 50 feet for 65 miles.....

If I don't work the brakes hard I slow too much, can't have that, I'm a racer man. No apologies

 

[spanky250]

I am hard on my brakes too, but I don't drag them when I'm on the gas...
I'm slow enough without throwing out an anchor...;)

 

[KXaggerator]

Hey clw,
I say if your rotors don't come back tinted blue after an enduro, you were probably late to your checks.
I have used Never Seize for years on my axles with much better results then grease. It is aluminum based (with some copper and graphite) anti gall lubricant. It is not made to be used in a roller bearing though. The compound is made by Bostik and has a temperature rating of 1800 degrees F. I have found the 'copper rich' anti seize compound made by Permatex to be exceptional. This is the same stuff my Glock came with from the factory on the slide rails. I have found it to have better anti wear properties then Never Seize, though it costs at least three times as much and is much harder to find.

 

[Jaybird]

Kxaggerator....
Those Glocks are Dandeeeerous!:eek:

Get yerself a Para-ordinance!;)

 

[MBFTY]

...

I swear by never sieze as well!

It really makes a great lubricant. Its a little thin, but works great for things like bushings and stuff. We use it for lubrication spindles on blower motors in the AC industry. Some of those motors really build up alot of speed!

It stains your clothes and hands real bad though... Thats about its only bad part. Not even Fast Orange will get it out...

 

[KXaggerator]

Hey Jaybird,
What ya mean by dangerous? They developed the Safe Action system didn't they (safety on the trigger?:scream: ). I have had my Glock 22 since 1995 and never had any problems other then 2 stove pipes (my fault) after thousands of rounds. I am nervous letting others shoot it though as I have a reworked 2 1/2 lb trigger with little take up and most people tend to put their finger on the trigger before they are actually ready to shoot. My new Browning Buckmark is currently my pride and joy; .22's are my favorite. I am thinking about getting a 1911 some day. Yes, it is off topic, but this is the off topic forum, and if you say anything bad about me I will smear all ya on RMD, you'll see I 'll get you. :p If only I can figure out how to read the board. :think

 

[Jaybird]

To stay on topic, I have to agree that the Permatex stuff is gr8!

KX, best .22 i ever sighted down was a Ruger revolver. Placed all six rounds center mass....of the lil 4in sillouette next to the real target;) Range man said I missed the whole target....:) "look again my good man"

 

[GlennP]

Where the steel caliper pins ride in the rubber bushings, use Silicone grease. This is available at auto stores or you can get Dow Corning 911 compound high vacuum grease in bulk quantities cheaper. Its made exactly for high temp metal/glass to rubber dynamic seals. Its VERY THICK, and ill not melt out.

 

[Yamamoto]

Do you think

That maybe you have a brake problem. Maybe the lever to high causing you to be standing on it while riding or sticky caliper ?

 

[clw]

Problem related

It is not a mechanical problem. Just my riding style. I adjust the pedal a little below level, the caliper will start to stick a little as the lubricant bakes off the slider pins. This causes the pads to wear unevenly.

The overheating only happens in very tight woods sections when the club is trying to take points. It never happens play riding, just in competition. If I'm behind schedule in those type iof woods I never completely take my foot off the pedal, there's not enough time for my brain to function properly. It's hard enough just missing all the trees!

The standard Nissan grease is very good while it lasts, then it's downhill.

Got some new ideas and an enduro this weekend.

 

[Yamamoto]

Re: Problem related

Originally posted by clw
It is not a mechanical problem. Just my riding style. I adjust the pedal a little below level, the caliper will start to stick a little as the lubricant bakes off the slider pins. This causes the pads to wear unevenly.

Not a mechanical problem but the pads wear unevenly .....lol OK

 

[clw]

Well... the mechanical part of the problem only starts after I cook the grease (the purpose of this thread at the start), only then does it manifest to uneven pad wear. When the pins are freshly greased the pads wear evenly. At leat until I overheat the brakes and the process repeats again, and again,

 

[clw]

Something New!

While browsing at Discount Auto Parts over the long weekend picking up some brake cleaner, they have a new Permatex product on the shelf. It's called Super Disc Brake Lube. Looks like an ordinary green grease. Instructions say put it everywhere except the friction surfaces (including pins and seals). Maybe it's the answer.

 

[MoToMaNYz125]

i use maxima waterproof grease on all my axles,linkage,steering stems,brake pins and etc it is a high temperature grease made from a molybendum base which is good its only 5 bucks so go to your local dealor and pick up a tub,lasts long too;)

 

[motorhead]

Another Recommendation

clw, maybe you've already found the answer to your problem - if so great :) . If not, read on. Honda recommends silicone grease on the brake caliper guide pins - the Permatex grease you mentioned is (I believe) silicone grease. If this doesn't work for you and you're still having problems, I suggest trying Pro Honda Moly 60 Paste. It's 60% pure molybdenum disulfide which is a much higher moly content than the 'moly' greases you see at the auto parts stores. It's operating range is up to 1500 degrees F. You can buy it at a Honda dealer or some mail order vendors like Chaparral also carry it. It's expensive - about $9.00 for a small 3 ounce tube - but it's excellent stuff.