elcamino12sec

Member
Jan 16, 2006
412
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I have a 2005 kx250, under hard breaking the rear tire seems to kinda bounce like wheel hop. In my manual it says...{Rear End "kicks" when braking on bumps, Rebound damping may be too low, increase the rebound damping}. I understand the basic principle of this. My question is increasing means turn the rebound adjuster to the right or left? I am assuming to the right to make it rebound faster not slower right?
 

Miedosoracing

Member
Feb 22, 2005
79
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FruDaddy said:
Should be marked with S and H. S is softer and counterclockwise, H is harder and clockwise. Short answer, Right,Yes.
I may be incorrect, but I believe the harder you put rebound the slower the rebound is. I personally had the same problem on my CR, and I turned the rebound on the shock softer, towards the S, so it rebounds faster.
 

CaptainObvious

Formally known as RV6Junkie
Damn Yankees
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Jan 8, 2000
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When breaking, make sure your weight is over the rear tire (especially when standing) by leaning back (look how far the Pro's arms are stretched-out).

Unless you are brake sliding into a turn or going down a steep hill, the rear break should be used sparingly, if at all.
 

elcamino12sec

Member
Jan 16, 2006
412
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ok, so I have a recomendation of turning it right and left, guess I have a 50/50 chance either way. Guess I will just use the old trial and error, It wont hurt anything.
 

Miedosoracing

Member
Feb 22, 2005
79
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elcamino12sec said:
ok, so I have a recomendation of turning it right and left, guess I have a 50/50 chance either way. Guess I will just use the old trial and error, It wont hurt anything.
Actually I was kinda trying to be polite about it, so I said I may be wrong. But here is what you do. The rebound on the shock is down at the bottom. Turn it clockwise/ towards the H, as many clicks as it goes. Count them as you do it, and write that down, so you know where you started. When you have it all the way tight, just push down on your bike, and let up. It should come up slower than before. Thus Harder, is slower. You should be roughly 12 clicks out for it to be in the middle. If you are at something like 5 clicks out right now (that is what mine was when I bought it), that maybe the reason it is doing that. Let us know how many clicks from all the way hard you are. Then we can go from there.
 
Last edited:

Matt 193

Member
Dec 22, 2006
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CaptainObvious said:
When breaking, make sure your weight is over the rear tire (especially when standing) by leaning back (look how far the Pro's arms are stretched-out).

Unless you are brake sliding into a turn or going down a steep hill, the rear break should be used sparingly, if at all.

I understand the steep downhill part where there shouldnt be to much rear tire slide but I would rather have my rear tire in a slide down a hill then grabbing to much front and flipping over the bars I try 2 use 50/50 downhills but I would much rather use more rear then front
 

reeltime123

Member
Apr 3, 2005
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Ok my friend , here is some info I think will benifit you and help you understand what is going on and what adjustments need to be made.!!!!! Hope this helps!!! Good luck!!!!

:ride: :ride: :ride:

When reading this and it says Dial out That means CCW and diall in mean CW.. :bang:


Setup Tips

Setting Race and Static Sag - Setting sag is very important so take the time and do this correctly. This can also help you determine if you need a stiffer or lighter spring.
- Put your bike on a stand so that the rear tire is not touching the ground. Measure the distance between the center of the rear axle and the seat bolt and write the measurement down.
- Next take the bike off the stand and set it somewhere level. Sit on the bike in the center of the seat. Bounce a couple times then keep one foot on the ground and have someone measure from the same points as earlier. Write it down and subtract it from the first measurement. This is your RACE SAG.
- Step off the bike and measure the same points as they sit, this is your STATIC SAG. This measurement should be between 20mm and 30mm (3/4 inch - 1 1/4 inch) less than your first measurement. If the static sag is less than 20mm(3/4 inch) you might need a stiffer spring. If it is more than 30mm( 1 inch) you might need a lighter spring.
Setting Shock Rebound and Compression - Although there are many preferences, the correct setting for your shock should leave you close to the middle of the adjustment range.
- After setting your sag, find a run that takes you through some braking bumps leading into a corner. Adjust the rebound screw out until the rear end starts to feel springy or loose. Then adjust the rebound screw in until the loose feeling goes away.
- Find a jump that throws you a little. If the wheels hit and bounce adjust the rebound screw until the wheels hit and absorb the landing.
- Next find a whoop section and pay attenton to whether your back and sways from side to side or follows straight on. If the rear end does not track well your rear shock may not be returning the wheel to the ground quick enough. Adjust the rebound damping out until this stops.
- Find a corner on the track that has ruts and acceleration as you exit. If your rear tire is skipping over or loosing traction instead of tracking, you should dial out the compression until it tracks better.
- Look for some rough sections that drop you down and use the full range of your suspension. The worst areas should bottom your suspension out. You can adjust the compression damping to control this.
Most of these are for fine tuning adjustments if you find that you are having to adjust these settings to far you may want to look into revalving or springs.
* The adjustment points can all be found in your owners manual. *


Fork Compression and Rebound -
- Find an area with small ruts and bumps. Increase the Compression Damping so that the forks skip and bounce a little roughly then soften until the forks absorb them smoothly.
- Next look for the bigger stuff find a rough section of the track. If your fork bottom out badly try adding fork oil. You should try adding to the level 5mm each time until the bottoming is no longer harsh.- Find a nice smooth turn and run through it a couple times using your front brake as you come into the turn and letting off as you exit. If your front end slides out soften the Rebound Damping. If the tire dives in and tries to turn to quickly stiffen the rebound damping.
- The height that your forks are set in the triple clamps can also make a difference in your ride. If you experience head shake try lowering the forks this should help.
Most of these are for fine tuning adjustments if you find that you are having to adjust these settings too far you may want to look into revalving or springs.
* The adjustment points can all be found in your owners manual.
 
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