overbore

Member
Dec 24, 2001
362
0
After taking off rear wheel and placing it on the ground.The bushings that the axle goes thru first will not pull out.Is there a circlip or something holding them in that I am not seeing.It looks like to replace rear bearings on parts diagram that there is bushings,dust seal and then bearings.Is this right?need help on this as the bushings would not come out easy and didnt want to pry to hard.
 

overbore

Member
Dec 24, 2001
362
0
I grease or put grease in there and on the axle shaft everytime that the wheel has been taken off and every few rides anyway,but hadnt pulled the bushings out.So just pry with a couple of screw drivers or something to pop out the metal bushings?
 

overbore

Member
Dec 24, 2001
362
0
I started this out because I felt some slight wobble left to right and not sure whether its the bearings or the bushings.Its a 2002 and has been taken care like a factory mechanic I assure you cause I have done it.
 

KDX220rm

Uhhh...
Jun 3, 2002
782
0
Your not the only one. I tried like heck to get the rear bushings out with no sucesss. Luckily I am going on 2 years with original seals, bearings, and bushings.
 

Gardener

Member
Jul 28, 2000
139
1
By bushings I assume you mean the rear wheel spacers? I so, they are a very tight fit. Whether or not you lube seals is irrelevant. A long drift is required and you need to tap them out from the opposite side. Tap out the sprocket side first. I've used a piece of wooden dowel (good) and a brass drift (the best). Likely the bearing and seal will pop out with the spacer on the sprocket side. You might need a bearing puller to separate the spacer from the bearing. Better yet, toss the entire stock bearing/spacer assembly and buy yourself some aftermarket hardened spacers. You're going to need new bearings and seals as well anyway. Aftermarket spacers are inexpensive and are much better than the stockers. On the brake side, the bearing is held in with a circlip. Pound away around the circumference of the spacer a bit at a time. Once the spacer is out, you can remove the dust seal, circlip and then the bearing by tapping out again from the opposite side.
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
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Overbore,

If is possible to fry a set of rear bearings on your '02 under the right conditions. To isolate the wobble to these bearings, put the bike up on a stand that gets the wheel off the ground and start wiggling the wheel left-to-right. If the wheel moves on the plane of the axle then it is these bearings. If the swingarm moves left - right or can twist it is these bearings. If the swingarm moves up over 1/2 inch then it is your upper shock mount heim bushing. Also make sure your spokes are tight and the wheel is true while you are back there. An out of balance rear wheel (common on a dirt bike) and a worn heim bushing can make for some interesting wobbling sensations coming out of the back on smooth terrain, as will an out of round wheel.

520s have a reputation for eating rear wheel bearings btw. Your 250 could have if there was little grease in them and/or there was some contamination that made it past the seals from lots of wet muddy riding. A pressure washer used in the area is death to them as well.

Let's get the basics covered here. First, let's assume you are talking a '92 - 2002 KTM. Second, let's assume you are talking about replacing the rear wheel BEARINGS that the wheel spins on the axle. Not rear spacers, not rear bushings. Bearings. KTM has a new hub out for '03 BTW and I'm not sure how it is constructed.

Some of the previous posts contain erroneous info, and some have most of the info. No prying is required. Let me see if I can consolidate some of the right stuff and add to it.

On the KTM hub on the BRAKE side, there is a circlip retainer that must be removed with a set of circlip pliers prior to removal of the bearings. You'll need this tool, a hammer, and a long punch. A 5 gallon bucket helps as well to get the whole assembly up off the ground plus a milk crate to sit on.

First, CAREFULLY LIFT out the dust seals, a little at a time, with a flat bladed screwdriver from both sides. Next, with the BRAKE side up, find the circlip and remove it with the circlip pliers. Once this is out, take your punch and CAREFULLY feel down thru the hub, looking for the lip of the non-sprocket-side bearing. There will be a small lip where it meets the tubular spacer that resides between the two bearings. CAREFULLY begin tapping around the circumference of the bearing lip. It will start to move and the purchase the punch sits on will become greater and easier to find. Gently tap the bearing loose, around the whole bearing, so it slides out pretty much flat and does not deform the soft aluminum hub. Once the bearing is out, go ahead and push the spacer out as well.

Flop the wheel over and start working on the BRAKE -side bearing - it will be on the bottom now. The tricky part on this one is making sure you keep the edge of the punch on the bearing, not pushing into the hub. It is very easy to drive the punch into the hub itself and damage the hub. Be sure your purchase stays on the bearing, and drive it out slowly and flat as you did the other one.

Once you have the bearings and seals in hand, you can drive over to the local bearing supply place and match them up for alot less than from the dealer. Or, EE and ERider sell bearing/hardened spacer kits. Note that your stock axle spacers are probably grooved and in need of replacement as well. (not 100% sure they have spacers for the '92-'97 bikes)

Once you have the new bearings in hand, they are supposed to be pre-lubed. Some people like to pry the dust cover off the bearing and pack in more grease. It is your call on this one.

Put the new bearings in the freezer. While they are chilling, clean the rear hub, spacer, and axle very well. Set your tub of BelRay saltwaterproof grease down next to your work area as well as a socket that is about the same size as the bearing OD. This will be used as your driver to install the new bearing.

Things go back together pretty much as they came apart. Be sure to put a goodly amount of the grease between the bearing and the outer seal. Clean and grease the axle. Service your chain adjusters while you are back there as well - clean them and give them a good coating of Anti-sieze grease.

Just be sure and do the job without any brute-force efforts. Hammers, steel, and tight tolerances don't get along well with aluminum. The cold bearings will be slightly under their warm size and should go in pretty easily.

Hope this helps,

(credit Gardener for the corrections)
 
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ktmracer

~SPONSOR~
Aug 9, 1999
378
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when you do get your new bearings, with a small flathead, pry up the seal on one side and pack it with good quality grease. from what i have seen most bearing manufacturers do not put enough in there. also moose sells bearings for you ktm and they are MUCH cheaper than oem.
 

E-Ticket

~SPONSOR~
Dec 16, 2000
735
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Great summary, Tex!

Just to stress even further -- when tapping/drifting out the bearings, or when re-inserting them -- be sure you are *always* contacting/tapping on the OUTER bearing shell -- not the INNER race!

You can remove/insert bearing several times (if need be) by applying force to the outer bearing. If you pound on the inner race at all, you run the risk of deforming bearings/rollers, etc. and the bearing is a throw away.

Cheers! - E-Ticket
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
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Thanks Gardener for the clarification. It has been awhile since I did mine. One of my friends didn't remove the circlip on his '98 and had to replace the hub after he pounded away and knocked a big chunk out of the hub.
 
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