Removing steering stem bearing

[Xylicon]

My steering stem bearings are pretty worn out and in need of replacing. I got the top one off easy but the bottom one doesn't want to budge. Is this bottom bearing made to be replaced or do I have to by a whole new stem? I've tried prying it and using a mallet to knock it loose but its pretty determined to just stay there. Any other removal suggestions will be appreciated thanks!

I have a pic but the spam killer won't let me post a link to it.
The Service Honda part number is 91015-KZ4-701 for those of you who don't know what bearing im talking about.


*1994 Cr250

 

[klikboom]

The bottom bearing is meant to come off, you don't need to buy a new stem. It

Try heating it up and continue tapping it with a mallet.

 

[Husky Texan]

Get an automotive bearing remover. Try the photo in this link. You want the one on the right of the photo. Harbor Freight has them for about 10 bucks. Then you can use a press or tap off the bearing.

 

[mtk]

To remove the bottom bearing, press the steering stem out of the lower triple clamp, from top to bottom. Then press the stem back in from the bottom. Once that is done, you can reinstall a new bearing. One of those bottle jack hydraulic presses works fine for this job.

This is also a prime opportunity to upgrade to one of those snazzy aftermarket triple clamps. ;)

 

[Xylicon]

I was thinkin about just getting a new triple clamp, but I don't know If i could continue using my current bars. I really don't like pro-tapers.

 

[glad2ride]

You could to find a loooong puller besides pressing it out. A normal bearing separator like on the brown's leisure page won't work, as it will hit the steering stops.

If you have one, just use a small cut off wheel to cut it off. Don't go too far and cut into the stem. I have done that before and it worked quite well.

 

[nickyd]

its press fitted on there - the easiest - and I mean easiest thing to do is to press the whole stem out - the bearing will pop right off - then press the stem back in install the new bearing. I have a park bicycle crown race bearing istallation tool that is worht every penny...i've listed now a handful of tools that are $$$ - take it to a shop and have them pull the old one off and install the new one. you'll be glad in the long run.

 

[trevor9a]

I paid a local shop $20 to get it off and put the new one on. Well worth the money. They basically put it in a vise and powered it off with a chisel. To put it back on put the bearing in the freezer for a little while and it will slide on with little trouble.

 

[Ol'89r]

They basically put it in a vise and powered it off with a chisel.
QUOTE]

A CHISEL! :yikes: Just kiddin', ;) actually that does work. The best way like mtk and nickyd said is to push the whole stem out with a press.

But, if you don't happen to have access to a press, you can clamp the stem upside down in a vice, (use soft aluminum jaws for this) and with a chisel and hammer, tap down on the race being careful not to damage the triple clamp. Go a little at a time and go all around the race. You only have to move it about 1/2" to get it off of the tight part of the stem and then it will slip off.

To install the new race, find a piece of pipe or tubing that is bigger than the stem in diameter and longer than the stem. The tubing must fit on the inside flat section of the race so as not to damage to bearing surface or cage. Warm the race up to expand it, (not freeze it) and using the pipe and a hammer, tap it down until is is seated against the lower clamp. Don't forget to put the seal on first.

Aftermarket clamps are available for either 7/8" bars or 1 1/8" protaper bars.

Just my $ .02

 

[Peer Lovell]

I paid a local shop $20 to get it off and put the new one on. Well worth the money. They basically put it in a vise and powered it off with a chisel. To put it back on put the bearing in the freezer for a little while and it will slide on with little trouble.

I think it's the other way around. You want to put the stearing stem in the freezer, not the bearing.

 

[trevor9a]

I think it's the other way around. You want to put the stearing stem in the freezer, not the bearing.

Actually I asked that question and they said that's how they do it, also it was only for a short time. They did it while I waited. When I got it back the stem was warm and the bearing was cool. The guys reply was that sometimes it will slide on that way without any effort.

 

[TimberPig]

Actually I asked that question and they said that's how they do it, also it was only for a short time. They did it while I waited. When I got it back the stem was warm and the bearing was cool. The guys reply was that sometimes it will slide on that way without any effort.

I don't know how they figure that one, because it is completely backwards from what every other person uses. By freezing the stem, it will contract slightly, while heating the bearing allows it to expand slightly. This increases the clearance, making it easier to install. By their method, they would contract the bearing, and expand the stem, making the clearances tighter and more difficult to install. I wouldn't expect it to just slip on.

 

[trevor9a]

I don't know how they figure that one, because it is completely backwards from what every other person uses. By freezing the stem, it will contract slightly, while heating the bearing allows it to expand slightly. This increases the clearance, making it easier to install. By their method, they would contract the bearing, and expand the stem, making the clearances tighter and more difficult to install. I wouldn't expect it to just slip on.

Actually the stem was room temp. I think it is probably easier, or quicker to cool the bearing rather than the stem. (or you could cool both) If cold is going to shrink the stem it should shrink the bearing as well. At first glance you would think the bearing would get smaller in diameter but my guess is that since the metal is contracting it would contract in all directions. Conversely, if you heat the bearing it should expand in all directions and make it more difficult. All I can say is that he did not hammer it on and it took all of about 2 minutes. What do you have to lose by trying it?

 

[TimberPig]

Well since my headset bearings are in good shape, I have no need or desire to try it at this time. All I'm saying is that by cooling the bearing, the inside diameter of the bearing will be reduced, which will decrease the clearance to a steering stem that is at room temp or warmer. The only thing I can think of making it slide on easier is frost on the bearing making it slide easier. Maybe it works, but since I have a press, that is probably the way I'll go when I need to do headset bearings, since that's even less effort than messing around with freezers and such.

 

[mtk]

Actually the stem was room temp. I think it is probably easier, or quicker to cool the bearing rather than the stem. (or you could cool both) If cold is going to shrink the stem it should shrink the bearing as well. At first glance you would think the bearing would get smaller in diameter but my guess is that since the metal is contracting it would contract in all directions. Conversely, if you heat the bearing it should expand in all directions and make it more difficult. All I can say is that he did not hammer it on and it took all of about 2 minutes. What do you have to lose by trying it?

The ONLY way cooling the bearing will work is if the current laws of physics have been repealed.

Cooling it makes it shrink, which most certainly won't make it any easier to get on the steering stem.

In other words, the folks who told you this story were either clueless or just full of it.

 

[SpeedyManiac]

There is no possible way cooling the bearing makes it easier. Look up interference fit in any engineering textbook. Did this happen to be done on the one day a year that the laws of physics go on a holiday by chance?