Do you guys have any tips for riding through mud? Every time I ride in mud I end up getting stuck and I've seen some people get through the same mud without getting stuck. :bang: I stay in 2nd gear the whlole time and I'm thinking thats my problem. Should I downshift to 1st or what?
Riding in mud.
- Thread starter ttrider24
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FruDaddy said:
I figured the speed might be a problem but when I tried it again going faster the same thing happened. Just wondering because I'm going riding with some experienced riders and I dont want to be left behind if there's any mud and I get stuck.
And about the mud being soft... I learned that the hard way. The mud was about 3in.-4in. deep and when I got stuck I gave it more gas to try and get it out but it didn't do anything but sling more mud under the fender. Then after I dropped it I sunk even further trying to get it out. And I didn't have a change of clothes so thats something I'll definately do next time.
Stiffen up the fork compression a few clicks, stand up and squeeze the bike with your legs, look where you want to go--not where the front wheel is, let the rear slip and slide but point it where want to go, and keep a steady, even throttle. Having a good mud tire helps too.
SpeedyManiac
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- Aug 8, 2000
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Be aggressive yet use smooth throttle and brakes. You need to attack the sections and carry speed through it so you don't lose momentum.
Dirtbike'n man
Member
- Feb 20, 2004
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another good tip is once your momentum is gone. don't spin the tire. when you know your about to get stuck. hop off and start to push to help get it out while you still have a little bit of momentum
- Feb 6, 2006
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What tire pressures are you running?
1994WR250Chad
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- Mar 19, 2006
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FruDaddy said:
Although I always get the speed before i enter the mud... i must tell you all what happened today!
As I rounded a corner doing a pretty high rate of speed,
I had a choice of dry rutted area on the left or an area on the right which appeared to be Level... dried mud... Seeing the area the right appeared to the best choice so i gunned it!
a half a seconded later I was half way through the "dried" Mud Zone... and 0 spead.... rear tire in the air (ENDO)..:yikes:.. front tire submerged up to and over the brakes. Then Bamm... My rear tire slams down and sumbmerged its self into the freshly rutted mud.
Wow.... this all happened so fast. I though I was going to be superman, by the force of the stop, I held on for dear life...
I only wish i could have seen it as a by stander...lol I am positive I would have laughed my but off. unforunately my buddy was about 5 seconds behind me and came up to see me sunk into the mudd. it took us a good 5 minutes to pry my bike from the mudd. It was stuckreally good. :nod:
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I'm not sure. I'll check once I get home though.Steve St.Laurent said:
I hate it when the mud is rutted like that. Thats the kind of mud you keep sinking into after you get stuck and then when somone tries to help you out they get stuck too. Ironically all this talk about riding in mud makes me want to. :laugh:1994WR250Chad said:
Look at the trees....
I assume you mostly trail ride with the TT so here is a tip I learned from a vet a long time ago. On trails that have a wet, muddy chewed up centerline, quickly look for alternative lines. Depending on the area of the USA you live, look for pines, spruce, fir, etc (any tree that would make a Christmas tree or one with needles) and try to ride toward and if possible through that area until you are past the mud. Those type trees will not survive in low heavy soils but require a well drained sandier soil that will allow you to hook up and go.
You likely will have to blaze a trail and it probably will be gnarly for a short distance but you will be amazed what a slightly lifted front end will mow down. That torquey TT230 will handle that nicely. You probably already have Bark Busters/hand guards which are necessary for this or the brush will engage the front brake and the clutch.
I would suggest practicing this before really needing it. Be aggressive, lower your head and go.
I agree with the person advising using a taller gear and I have had good success staying light on the seat and dabbing when necessary.
I assume you mostly trail ride with the TT so here is a tip I learned from a vet a long time ago. On trails that have a wet, muddy chewed up centerline, quickly look for alternative lines. Depending on the area of the USA you live, look for pines, spruce, fir, etc (any tree that would make a Christmas tree or one with needles) and try to ride toward and if possible through that area until you are past the mud. Those type trees will not survive in low heavy soils but require a well drained sandier soil that will allow you to hook up and go.
You likely will have to blaze a trail and it probably will be gnarly for a short distance but you will be amazed what a slightly lifted front end will mow down. That torquey TT230 will handle that nicely. You probably already have Bark Busters/hand guards which are necessary for this or the brush will engage the front brake and the clutch.
I would suggest practicing this before really needing it. Be aggressive, lower your head and go.
I agree with the person advising using a taller gear and I have had good success staying light on the seat and dabbing when necessary.
Look at the trees....
I assume you mostly trail ride with the TT so here is a tip I learned from a vet a long time ago. On trails that have a wet, muddy chewed up centerline, quickly look for alternative lines. Depending on the area of the USA you live, look for pines, spruce, fir, etc (any tree that would make a Christmas tree or one with needles) and try to ride toward and if possible through that area until you are past the mud. Those type trees will not survive in low heavy soils but require a well drained sandier soil that will allow you to hook up and go.
You likely will have to blaze a trail and it probably will be gnarly for a short distance but you will be amazed what a slightly lifted front end will mow down. That torquey TT230 will handle that nicely. You probably already have Bark Busters/hand guards which are necessary for this or the brush will engage the front brake and the clutch.
I would suggest practicing this before really needing it. Be aggressive, lower your head and go.
I agree with the person advising using a taller gear and I have had good success staying light on the seat and dabbing when necessary.
I assume you mostly trail ride with the TT so here is a tip I learned from a vet a long time ago. On trails that have a wet, muddy chewed up centerline, quickly look for alternative lines. Depending on the area of the USA you live, look for pines, spruce, fir, etc (any tree that would make a Christmas tree or one with needles) and try to ride toward and if possible through that area until you are past the mud. Those type trees will not survive in low heavy soils but require a well drained sandier soil that will allow you to hook up and go.
You likely will have to blaze a trail and it probably will be gnarly for a short distance but you will be amazed what a slightly lifted front end will mow down. That torquey TT230 will handle that nicely. You probably already have Bark Busters/hand guards which are necessary for this or the brush will engage the front brake and the clutch.
I would suggest practicing this before really needing it. Be aggressive, lower your head and go.
I agree with the person advising using a taller gear and I have had good success staying light on the seat and dabbing when necessary.
Mate, stand up as much as possible, keep it nailed and don't look at the front wheel! Let the bike squirm around if it wants to but imagine you're skiing or surfing, and steer the bike with a combo of body/throttle....braaaap. Feels great when you get it right.
Once you sit down you lose the ability to steer properly, as your poking and pushing the front tire onto the mud. Keep your feet on the pegs as long as you can... it's real hard to get yourself going at a good speed if you're paddling!!
Once you sit down you lose the ability to steer properly, as your poking and pushing the front tire onto the mud. Keep your feet on the pegs as long as you can... it's real hard to get yourself going at a good speed if you're paddling!!
how do you handle the slick mud - like the tennessee orange clay. that stuff is like ice when it gets wet. another is my home track that is mostly good black topsoil - when this stuff is wet and recently groomed, you can't hold a line with the bike - it just seems to go where it wants. any suggestions how to deal with these two situations - other than take the day off to work on the bikes...
- Oct 13, 1999
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Go out and practice in the rain/mud.
- Aug 3, 2004
- 1,003
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I ride a 2T, so take this for what it's worth. I find that if I lean way back and give it more throttle (wheel spin) upon entering the mud, I get through it much quicker. This is assuming I'm going at least 2'nd gear speed already. I've never been through lots of mud slowly before. Damn, I want to go ride in the mud now!!!
High Lord Gomer
Poked with Sticks
- Sep 26, 1999
- 11,790
- 34
When the bike does decide to head off course, trying to muscle it back in slippery conditions is often a losing battle and will result in having to pick it back up after the front end washes out.tnrider said:
When that happens to me, I try to let it go where it wants with the hope that I'll get more traction when it gets to the edge of the trail and try to bring it back under control then.
DirtDawger
Member
- Jun 24, 2000
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tnrider said:
If you are talking about a slick layer of clay over a hard surface throttle control is key. Also keep loose and let the bike do what it has to within reason. Don't get jiggy with the brakes. All of this is best performed standing up.
